Jacoboregon,
Lots of ways to do everything. Pulling a tube certainly is not the same as a hole shot start on a wakeboard or hydrofoil. But I can tell you from experience that it isn't the d ring or the fabric that suffers when towing from your tubes, it's the transom joint seams. Of course I'm running an ancient 99 futura so it is in my interests to reduce the stress on the tubes and direct it to the solid transom itself.
I would point out that a pole extension or tower of too much height is unsafe on an inflatable towing more active sports riders. With low displacement, a hard cut and the boat going over other wakes you could actually find the boat being much less stable due to the leverage. That is why I run with a short pole. Not an issue with a donut, but something to be aware of.
I am attaching three photos of my install. I have an aluminum crossing plate on my floor section that extends to the sides. It attaches to backing plates in the hollow floor that extend to the very edge. This way they are essentially captured by the side rails and become part of the most rigid aspect of the sectional floor design. The mounting base would otherwise be attached to the thin top sheet and they do deform and flex.
The rear supports are where the majority of the stress goes, in direct opposition to forward thrust of the outboard. That leaves the tubes just cruising along for the ride.
It isn't easy to see, but the pole is raked forward according to the manufacturers instructions. This reduces the pulling up on the floor load that would be significant with a truly vertical pole.
This may be overkill, but I ride the heck out of this and it is a stable and proven system. Not the only solution, but I toss it out there for your consideration.
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Check out a video from my October trip to Lake Powell.
http://youtu.be/Q7RMJCbM4PA