Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

[dingbat]

All of these statements are either true or false, albeit some are not so clear cut.

Let?s see how well you do

Action:
1. An extra fast rod will generally only bend in the top fifth of the rod and as you move down the scale, more of the rod will bend, where at the bottom of the scale you?ll find that a slow action rod will start to bend all the way down in the lower third of the rod.

2. You want a light action rod so it bends easier and further down the rod length to produce enough energy for a good distance cast.

3. The idea that a fast action blank only flexes in the upper 1/3rd is inaccurate. Even a fast action blank will flex deeply into the butt area if you apply more and more load to it.

Power:
1. It is important to keep the line weight within the constraints of the rating on the rod

2. Line weight designations refer to mono fishing line.

3. The rod will ?dead lift ? the stated (line) weight at angles less than 45 degrees from parallel

Graphite:

1. IM8 graphite rod is better than an IM7 graphite rod. Generally what better means is that the actual material used to make the rod is better. Higher ratings mean better material

2. Higher modulus increases the chance of breakage

Guides:

1. The makeup of the ceramic runs the spectrum from silicon carbide being the best to Alconite, hardloy and aluminum oxide. The difference between these different materials is how smooth the ceramic is.

2. A higher ?grade? of guide the easier your line goes out of your guides and the easier it is to cast

 

[John_S]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

All of these statements are either true or false, albeit some are not so clear cut.

Let?s see how well you do

Action:
1. An extra fast rod will generally only bend in the top fifth of the rod and as you move down the scale, more of the rod will bend, where at the bottom of the scale you?ll find that a slow action rod will start to bend all the way down in the lower third of the rod.

F: I don't think there is a standard between mfgs, such as "top fifth" or "lower third". I believe slow can go all the way into the butt.

2. You want a light action rod so it bends easier and further down the rod length to produce enough energy for a good distance cast.

F: I am not aware of a light action. XF, F, MF, M, S

3. The idea that a fast action blank only flexes in the upper 1/3rd is inaccurate. Even a fast action blank will flex deeply into the butt area if you apply more and more load to it.

T: Sentance one "only". Will it flex into butt, maybe if it don't break.

Power:
1. It is important to keep the line weight within the constraints of the rating on the rod

F: I have only used it as a general guide. If using braid, I am generally over the wt rating on the rod.

2. Line weight designations refer to mono fishing line.

T: I believe so, since mono was the dominent line before super lines.

3. The rod will ?dead lift ? the stated (line) weight at angles less than 45 degrees from parallel

F: I have actually lifted four pound weights off the floor with rods that recommend 6, 8, & 10lb test. They are bent over nore than 45 degrees.

Graphite:

1. IM8 graphite rod is better than an IM7 graphite rod. Generally what better means is that the actual material used to make the rod is better. Higher ratings mean better material

F: "Better"? I think it is just a stronger rated material. It has the potential to be made with thiner, lighter, and more sensitive. How well the mfg process and others things can weigh into "better". And "better" for what application?

2. Higher modulus increases the chance of breakage

T: With a "generally" qualification. A higher modulus rod would tend to break easier if chipped, etc.



Guides:

1. The makeup of the ceramic runs the spectrum from silicon carbide being the best to Alconite, hardloy and aluminum oxide. The difference between these different materials is how smooth the ceramic is.

F: Best at what? Smoothness? I'd have to look that up, but thought it was hardness and resistance to wear.

2. A higher ?grade? of guide the easier your line goes out of your guides and the easier it is to cast

F: Assuming grade still means material of the ceramic.

Either I'm the first guinia pig or too slow of typer, and not afraid to get something wrong.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Not too bad. You missed several but better than most have done with these questions.

Rethink the power questions and re-read the question about dead-lift.

 

[John_S]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Out of the power questions, the only one that wasn't clear is #3. I assumed it was take a rod and hold it by the butt so it is parellel to ground. Run line through guides to weight. Lift rod butt, keeping parrellel, until the weight comes off the ground. Use a dead weight that meets the line weight and the rod can not bend more than 45 degrees overall. If that was incorrect, probably need a picture to what you meant. As stated, I've done that with less weight to compare two different mfg rods with the same power and action. Both rods, while not equal were doubled over (similiar to your picture) more than 45 degrees.

Otherwise, those were my answers. I didn't go try to look anything up or research. Its what was came to me as the questions were read. I thought there would be more participation based on some other threads. Anyway, for the ones I have wrong, would like the explainations and maybe more debate/explanation of what I was thinking.

 

[bouttime007]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

I'll give it a whirl..


Action:
1. An extra fast rod will generally only bend in the top fifth of the rod and as you move down the scale, more of the rod will bend, where at the bottom of the scale you?ll find that a slow action rod will start to bend all the way down in the lower third of the rod.

- True. Also called "fast tip"

2. You want a light action rod so it bends easier and further down the rod length to produce enough energy for a good distance cast.

- Not exactly/false. Lighter action is more determining of species and tackle weight more than casting ability. "Rod weight" is a determining factor too, along with the taper.

3. The idea that a fast action blank only flexes in the upper 1/3rd is inaccurate. Even a fast action blank will flex deeply into the butt area if you apply more and more load to it.

- True when all is said and done.

Power:
1. It is important to keep the line weight within the constraints of the rating on the rod.

- Not exactly/true. Its not so much a rule as it is a guideline as to what to use for the rod to be within the intended range of use and structural strength. One could use line beyond the limits either way, but may sacrifice performance and/or failure of the rod if stressed beyond its limits. Common sense goes a long way with this.

2. Line weight designations refer to mono fishing line.

False.

3. The rod will ?dead lift ? the stated (line) weight at angles less than 45 degrees from parallel

True??

Graphite:

1. IM8 graphite rod is better than an IM7 graphite rod. Generally what better means is that the actual material used to make the rod is better. Higher ratings mean better material

- True but is personal preference. "Better material" equals the ability to make a lighter "weight" rod with decent action.

2. Higher modulus increases the chance of breakage

- True

Guides:

1. The makeup of the ceramic runs the spectrum from silicon carbide being the best to Alconite, hardloy and aluminum oxide. The difference between these different materials is how smooth the ceramic is.

- True, but also the hardness.

2. A higher ?grade? of guide the easier your line goes out of your guides and the easier it is to cast

-False to a point. Lure weight, line weight, length of rod and action of rod are bigger determining factors of casting ease. If using braid, a higher "grade" guide would be better for the long haul.

 

[mommicked]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Yall are makin my head hurt!I like to experiment w rods,reels and line/lure weights till it feels right and casts well for ME w my average weight tackle. Thats what I fish with. Specialized actions are great for specific uses but a good, comfortable,dependable,familiar rod/reel/line combo with all around performance lets you cast more various lures/weights and catch more fish IMO.I like lighter lines and medium actions for most freshwater fishing. Its just more fun to me to fight nice fish near the limits of my line/rod.I do use heavyer line/rods for brush,timber,heavyer baits, and bigger targeted fish, and salt water, cause you never know what might be swimin in the brine.Different brands of rods w similar specifications can perform alot differently in my experience.But Im no expert

 

[bouttime007]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Im with you Mommicked.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Action:
1. FALSE The idea that a fast action blank only flexes in the upper 1/5th is inaccurate. Even a fast action blank will flex deeply into the butt area if you apply more and more load.

2. FALSE: There is no such thing as a light action rod. Light power, no light action.

3. TRUE: See question 1

Power:
1. FALSE: Line strengths vary from manufacturer, sometime significantly so using line strength to determine a rods capacity is pretty meaningless. The important part is that you keep the ?load? within the guide lines.

2. FALSE: #20 test by definition breaks at #20 pounds, no matter what material the line is made from.

3. TRUE:. Several of the leading blank manufactures clearly state ?The blank is rated so that when the rod is held at a 45-degree angle or less, line within the rating will break before the rod does. All bets are off if the rods is built incorrectly. Even a single misplaced guide can prevent the load from being equally distributed along the length of the rod, concentrating the load which results in a failure.


Graphite:
1.FALSE - Only the physical attributes are different. The quality of IM6, IM7 is no less than that of IM8. In a lot of applications a fiberglass rod is best for the job.


2. TRUE: Along with an increase in modulus comes an increase in the brittleness of the material.

What is brittleness? A material is brittle if, when subjected to stress, it fails without significant deformation (strain). Brittle materials absorb relatively little energy prior to fracture. Failure is often accompanied by a snapping sound. While you can design to minimize the effect, you can?t get around the inherent physical properties of a high modulus material.

Guides:
1. FALSE: The difference in the materials is the hardness. Generally, the harder the material the less friction it produces. Tests using various materials have shown that friction decreases linearly with increased hardness. The harder the guide, the less friction it produces.

2. FALSE: Guide size/spacing and line type are bigger considerations, but IF those are all equal, then TRUE. A harder guide ring would help increase performance.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Way too high tech for me.

 

[John_S]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Power:
2. FALSE: #20 test by definition breaks at #20 pounds, no matter what material the line is made from.

Some mfgs, like Shimano, have come out with seperate "braid" recommendations for rods, which are generally higher than the "generic" line. I think I've seen that on a few other rods, but couldn't find it during a quick search.

So, the minimum lb recommendation comes from when the line will break before the "specified" load is applied to the rod?


3. TRUE:. Several of the leading blank manufactures clearly state ?The blank is rated so that when the rod is held at a 45-degree angle or less, line within the rating will break before the rod does. All bets are off if the rods is built incorrectly. Even a single misplaced guide can prevent the load from being equally distributed along the length of the rod, concentrating the load which results in a failure.

Is there some common spec that these major blank mfg follow? And do the rod mfg's then retest to verify? And if this is a "loose" spec, like the variability of using an angle between 0 and 45, then it might be meaningless, anyway. ie, I'd expect the zero angle to give a higher rating than 45 degrees.

A couple of comments/questions.

 

[bouttime007]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

Action:
1. FALSE The idea that a fast action blank only flexes in the upper 1/5th is inaccurate. Even a fast action blank will flex deeply into the butt area if you apply more and more load.

Ahhh but thats not what the question said.

The question said "An extra fast rod will generally only bend in the top fifth of the rod", which is GENERALLY true. Part 3 of this goes further into detail about the blank flexing throughout its length when applying more load.

There is a bit of grey area in some of these questions.

 

[dingbat]

Re: Test your Knowledge of Fishing Rods

A couple of comments/questions.

Out of the power questions, the only one that wasn't clear is #3. I assumed it was take a rod and hold it by the butt so it is parellel to ground. Run line through guides to weight. Lift rod butt, keeping parrellel, until the weight comes off the ground. Use a dead weight that meets the line weight and the rod can not bend more than 45 degrees overall. If that was incorrect, probably need a picture to what you meant. As stated, I've done that with less weight to compare two different mfg rods with the same power and action. Both rods, while not equal were doubled over (similiar to your picture) more than 45 degrees.

It has nothing to do with the bend of the rod. It's the angle of the rod (unbent) off horizontal.
Holding the rod at 45 degrees (unbent) or less off horizontal is fine. Anything above 45 degrees is concentrating more and more of the load on the tip and failure is eminent

The claims made by Shimano and a couple of other manufacturers are pure marketing hype. What's heavier, 100 pounds of lead or 100 pounds of feather?

Maximum strength is obtained when the load is at a 90 degree angle to the plane of the unbent rod. All bets are off once you go below 90 degrees