Salt water protection

[GCMarine]

Another question about my 1991 Volvo Penta 740B in a Chaparral Villain III, with a DP drive. The boat has never been in salt water and I want to make sure I'm protecting it the best I can. I was told that I could use pencil anodes in the exhaust manifolds - pull out the drain plugs and replace with these (I assume these are plugs underneath as I don't see anything on the top). 1) Is this a good idea and 2) any recommendation on the size needed? Also, I've heard about using bonding wire to connect the metal components and protect all with common anodes. If anyone has some articles or advice on this, I'd really appreciate it. I haven't been able to find much. Thanks!

 

[bruceb58]

Invest in this:
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Neutra-Salt-Engine-Flushing-Kit/dm/store_id.366--view_id.352393

Before you turn off your engine, you hit a switch on your dash that injects the solution with the incoming cooling water. It neutralizes the salt in the water that stays in your block and manifolds.

Even if I am bringing my boat home to fresh water flush, I do this. I also inject more of the solution in at the end of my fresh water flush..

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes the anodes will help.
They are usually used if the boat stays in the water and doesn''t get flushed.
​You can add a flushing kit to rinse the motor.
​It can take 5-10min running to completely change the water in a block, when flushing.
​One time in salt water is all it takes to start the corrosion.
Draining the manifods and block isn't as good as leaving it full of salt water.
The air accelerates the rust/corrosion.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Occasional salt water use, ore moored in salt water all the time?

Your drive is already bonded.

You could look into a heat exchanger. To protect the exhaust manifolds you would need a full system (not offered by volvo).

Or simply flush when done. The neutrasalt system is also nice

 

[GCMarine]

It's going to be moored in the salt water for the season. Will likely get a heat exchanger - like you said, Scott, the 1/2 system. Is neutrasalt best way to protect the rest (exhaust manifolds?)? It also has a through-hull exhaust close to the water line so water will likely be splashing in while it's moored. It has flappers but I assume they won't really seal water out. Any pencil anodes or anything I can/should add to the exhaust manifolds? Thanks!

 

[bruceb58]

Your engine has too may hours likely to put on a closed system.

 

[jeffnick]

Invest in this:
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Neutra-Salt-Engine-Flushing-Kit/dm/store_id.366--view_id.352393

Before you turn off your engine, you hit a switch on your dash that injects the solution with the incoming cooling water. It neutralizes the salt in the water that stays in your block and manifolds.

Even if I am bringing my boat home to fresh water flush, I do this. I also inject more of the solution in at the end of my fresh water flush..

How much concentrate is used for each flush? Or what does each flush cost after you've paid for the system?

 

[jerryjerry05]

You can add a 1/2 system or even a complete one at any time.
If you do?? you really have to make sure the crud is flushed from the block.

​Worked on a truck that the PO had used a radiator sealer( a LOT) of sealer.
Then he added so much it caused an overheat problem.
​I had to remove both heads to get all the crap out.

​Had a 32 with twin Volvo I/O's I added an anode or zink plate 10X14 between the motors on the transom.
I grounded it through the hull.
The zinks on the drive lasted twice as long after adding that.