Questions for getting engine started

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Bought a boat that need a new starter motor. Got that replaced and hooked up. When I turn the key the starter engages and turns the fly wheel turns a couple of cranks and then it stops (it seems like the battery isn't powerful enough). I just bought a new batter which is a starter/deep cell 800+ MCA. Not sure if there is something restricting flywheel or if it is the battery or starter. I am getting a spark though. My electric choke doesn't seem to be working.<br /><br />My throttle and gear linkage cables are unhooked so I was trying to manually set the throttle and the neutral switch. I can't figure out how to hook these cables up. The manual I have doesn't show either. The cam and carb throttle (don't know if terminology is correct) each have a clamp but the ends of the linkage cables do not fit in them. One of the cables also has a socket screw on the end. Can anyone tell me how these should be hooked up?<br /><br />Any tips I could try to get the engine started?<br /><br />-----------------------<br />Chrysler 55 HP (66-69)<br />Serial: 5552<br />Model: 2194
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Now you know why the starter was fried!<br />Since your engine probably needs less than 50 amps to crank, your battery is probably not the problem. Wiring and the start solenoid could be. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage between starter's + terminal and the engine block while cranking. If it reads under 10.5v, then you've got a problem. Try again *before* the solenoid to determine if it's the problem.<br />If you have no multimeter, then start feeling around. Where there's heat, there's resistance.<br /><br />Another possibility is an engine or l/u problem. Remove all your spark plugs and turn the flywheel by hand. Does it turn fairly easily? <br /><br />Personally, my bets are on bad wires/connections, since the choke's busted. Solenoid is the next bet (these items are all cheap, btw)<br /><br />Sorry, I can't help with the linkage.
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Thanks I will try that and then post my findings.<br /><br />Anyone else know about the linkage cables?
 

wikelam

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
543
Re: Questions for getting engine started

i had a '68 40hp seaking. did similar thing. though it was battery. it was a ground problem. would start with this. it is the easiest and if all connections are good and clean then continue with above post.
 

onebohemian

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 19, 2003
Messages
43
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I just went through the same scenario with an '87 Evinrude V4 90 horse. Starter wouldn't always turn the flywheel. Removed and cleaned all the connections on the motor and starter. Didn't help. Replaced starter. No luck. Bought new batteries. No luck. Finally found out the hard way that the upper bearing in the lower unit was seizing up on the drive shaft when I'd shut the motor off. She'd lock up on the drive shaft making the flywheel hard to turn. Because I didn't pull the lower unit and check/replace bearing, the bearing finally gave up, permanently seized and ruined the drive shaft, which in turn caused an expensive chain reaction in the lower unit that required it to be rebuilt with $900 in parts (and I couldn't find these parts anywhere online any cheaper than what I bought them for). If I were you, I'd drop the lower unit or have someone do it for you and check that upper bearing and the driveshaft. <br /><br />Mark<br />Minneapolis, MN
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Checked with the multi meter.<br /><br />Not too experienced with a multimeter. Had it set at 50 on the DCV side. When cranking the reading was about 8 or 9 (this was after a few tries on the ACV side). After testing the starter was warm to the touch.<br /><br />Does this mean that the starter is no good? If so what needs to be replaced on it?
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Hey boat rookie. Got to love chryslers. I have a 67 45hp and I have a clymer manual. The manual does give pretty good instructions on how to adjust the linkages. Is your throttle and shift controls about halfway down your boat with a chrysler decal on it? If so I might be able to get a digital camera and shoot some pictures of mine so at least you know how they are hooked up.<br /><br />This may sound stupid but when I bought mine I didnt know you had to push the key in to make the choke work. There is a selonoid next to the carb with a linkage that will go down when the key is pushed in. You have to have the key on but not to the start position.<br /><br />Not sure what is happening with the starter. Did you try and turn it by hand? If you need pictures email me at ralgoetz@aol.com. Cant guarentee I can get the camera tomorrow but if I can I can send them to you saturday morning. Also let me know what format you want the pictures in jpeg or gif or tiff or whatever<br /><br />Good luch
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I just tried to push the key in and....the choke does work!!! Thanks eurolarva.<br /><br />The part I am not sure how to hook up is the engine end of the linkage. There are two clamps (has screw to hold it closed) one at the bottom of the gear shift lever and one on the bottom of the tower shaft. Are they supposed to fit into these?<br /><br />I also have the clymer manual but couldn't find a picture that matched my engine.
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I am going through the troubleshooting part of the manual with a testing light.<br /><br />It is failing on the steps with the yellow starter wire. I am supposed to check at the ignition switch, at the terminal block on the engine and at the neutral switch. I tried with the key in the on position and also tried turning the engine over while testing the yellow wire at the ignition switch. The test light never came on. If the engine can turn over does that mean my ignition is ok? and I don't have to worry about these tests?
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: Questions for getting engine started

That sure points to a problem between the starter and the batt. Starters are designed to turn over & start an engine at 10.5v (near flat battery) or above. 8 or 9 is not going to cut it.<br />As a side note, the wattage (or horsepower) of the starter drops off as the square of the voltage. That is to say, if you drop the voltage in half, the starter puts out 1/4 the hp.<br />Now, as wikelam said, clean all your connections real shiney and test again. The offending place will be getting warm/hot when you crank. <br />If that fails, you should be looking at the solenoid. It is what the post on the starter is connected to. Do your test while cranking on the big posts and ground (engine). If the voltage goes to 9-8v on one side, but not the other, then you know you have a faulty solenoid.
 

foxjohnc03

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 30, 2003
Messages
79
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Whip out the old trusty jumper cables and jump from the battery to the positive terminal on the starter. If it cranks fine then you have a wiring or solenoid problem.
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Just replaced the solenoid and there was no change.<br /><br />When I try starting the engine, the start only runs for about 1 second before it doesn't have enough power to turn the flywheel. After trying that 3 or 4 times I hook my battery charger up to the battery and it is half drained.<br /><br />If the voltage from the starter positive terminal is less than 10.5 does that mean it is no good? How can I tell for sure if my starter is working? I just bought it and want to be able to take it back if it is faulty.
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I would try taking the battery out of your car and try starting the motor with that. There is no way a new battery will drain that fast even with a direct short across the terminals. I have bought flat batteries. I like to buy them without the acid in them. That way I know they are fresh after you charge them. Take the battery to an auto parts store and they can test it to tell you if it is good. Still think you need to pull the plug wires and turn the flywheel clockwise by hand. If you cant turn it or it is really hard to turn your lower unit might be locked up. If you dont want to take the battery out of your car disconnect one of the leads on the car battery and use jumper cable directly to the wires you connect to your boat battery (Disconnet boat battery for this test) Make sure the jumpers do not come in contact with anything metal on your boat. Use electrical tape if you need to. This will show if it is the battery.
 

boating brad

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 7, 2003
Messages
201
Re: Questions for getting engine started

i'd bet $ that the brushes in the starter are not making contact either they are wore out or just stuck up. beware! if you dicide to tear the starter down. it is a biitch to get it back together. it wouldnt hurt to make sure all connections are clean, before anything.
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I tried turn the flywheel by hand and can do it with the sparkplugs in and out. <br /><br />Sometimes it does seem to bind while turning it by hand. I don't know if this is just the compression. However after turning it by hand a few times and then trying to start it, it will then turn over easier and actually turn the flywheel a few times. I find that strange. So I am thinking that maybe something is binding which is causing the starter problems.<br /><br />The boat was sitting for a few years before I bought it. What should I do to make sure it is lubed up and how do I do this? Should I attempt to take the lower unit off? I don't have much experience.
 

Yepblaze

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
1,686
Re: Questions for getting engine started

You have had it suggested to you a couple of times allready to try it with some "jumper cables" from your car, or another cranking battery. It sounds like low cranking voltage due to a bad battery. By doing so it will help indicate weather or not the battery you are trying is up to the task.
 

KelseyK

Seaman
Joined
Jun 25, 2003
Messages
54
Re: Questions for getting engine started

I don't think the problem is the battery. I had tried earlier to crank with a car battery and it wasn't any different.
 

Yepblaze

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
1,686
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Did you try with the ground (neg) clamp located to a strter mounting bolt and the positive clamp directly to the strter motor electrical post?<br /><br />Stand clear of the gears as it should spin like crazy when connected. <br /><br />It should help with isolating the problem.
 

eurolarva

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
4,182
Re: Questions for getting engine started

When you do get the engine to spin you will want the lower unit in water or hooked to muffs. If you crank for more than 15 seconds without water your water pump impeller is going to fry. You really should replace this anyway. The lube in your lower unit is two screws down by the prop. One is vent and the other is fill. remove the lower screw(Drain hole) and replace it again. The lube that comes out should be a dark color looking like oil. If water comes out or it is milky you have a leak in your lower unit and you will have to deal with that once you get this elecrical nightmare figured out.
 

jrlogan11

Seaman
Joined
Apr 7, 2003
Messages
67
Re: Questions for getting engine started

Hey Boatrookie. Just read through this whole thread and this is what I'm getting from it.<br /><br />1. You have voltage drop while starting, which means either bad battery, wiring, or starter. If you use jumper cables from a good battery (such as the one in your car with it running->no chance of voltage drop) directly to your starter and it doesn't work, then it isn't the wiring or you battery, but rather the starter/solenoid/or worse, your engine is binding, which leads to...<br /><br />2. You were able to turn the flywheel by hand, but sometimes it seemed to be harder. Important-> with all spark plugs removed (not just the wires, but the plugs actually out of the engine), is the flywheel hard to turn? Does it seem to catch? If so, there is a mechanical problem, such as the lower unit binding as was suggested earlier. If it only seems to snag when the plugs are in, that is just your compression.<br /><br />Advice: KISS (keep it simple, stupid. -> An axiom I try to live by, but often fail at because I'm just too stupid :^). If you can turn the flywheel with the plugs out, don't even think about mechanical problems or dropping your lower unit. Certainly not until you have exhausted all simpler solutions. Follow the steps in #1 to determine where your voltage problem is, and trust what you find. If a running car battery with cables directly to the starter doesn't work, then quit even thinking about your boat battery or the wiring. Go step by step, and logically. It sounds from your posts that your sorta lost in how to trouble shoot this.<br /><br />Also, definitely follow the advice to check your lower unit oil. Lower units are pricey, and water entering the oil is what kills them 99% of the time. Oh, yeah. It's worth buying some muffs to run your motor while you work on it so that you don't fry the impeller (water pump), not to mention the engine! An alternative is to run it in a trash can full of water, just make sure the water level is above the intake's on the lower unit, and it is spitting water after it starts.
 
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