PSA on Winterization Antifreeze

Lou C

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ACE hardware used to sell it, I got it from Amazon last time, a case of 6 gallons that would last me a LONG time (each gallon makes 2 gallons of AF, like 3 years worth)...
 

Jmunk

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ACE hardware used to sell it, I got it from Amazon last time, a case of 6 gallons that would last me a LONG time (each gallon makes 2 gallons of AF, like 3 years worth)...

Thanks, my Ace Hardwares are becoming sparse near me.

I did see that my local O’Reilly Auto has Prestone’s version. The website shows it in stock for $22 a gallon of concentrate.

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tpenfield

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Wow . . . I think we are onto something. If there is PG-based AF/Coolant, then it is a fair assumption that it is meant for engines, Right? :LOL:

The W.M. -100˚F stuff is $22/gallon . . . so perhaps there is a less expensive alternative, if it is called 'coolant' :unsure:

I'm using about 12 gallons on the Engines and A/C units. I don't want be replacing the sea water strainers . . . darn near killed myself being a contortionist putting them in 🤪
 

Lou C

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That's a good deal, then mixed 50/50 that's costing you only $11 per gallon. Much better than -60!
When I run out of my stock of Sierra I will try that thanks for the tip!
 

Lou C

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As long as you are OK with the lowered levels of freeze protection (-29 for PG vs -34 for EG) and boil protection (220 for PG vs 265 for EG) there's no reason why you couldn't use it for an engine coolant as well as winterizing your raw water side. In fact I'm going to do some more research and see how high you can get the boil over protection # when going to 60% PG antifreeze mix. For cooler running marine engines, it might be fine even at 50%. For auto engines that can run from 210-220* as a normal thing maybe not so much. For a closed cooled inboard running at 160-180 might be fine. That way if you have a coolant leak into the bilge and your bilge pump kicks on you're not putting toxic EG into the waters.
 

airshot

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One of the reasons I went back to an outboard. Soooo much easier to maintain on all levels. Gotta love self-draining. And of course, access to the motor. Contorted body not needed... At least the I/O I had...
My I/O had plenty of room to work around, so that was not an issue. However, my season was always cut short due to having to winterize the I/O. I downsized to an outboard because the I/O was getting to big for this old man to handle by myself. Wife is dissabled and kids are grown up with their own families, so if I want to go boating or fishing I am usually alone. Get an ocassional passenger, but if I had to rely on help in order to go, it wouldnt be worth having a boat. Yes the OB is less work and maintenence but I do miss my bigger boat.!!
 

Lou C

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This shows how to mix PG antifreeze if you want to use it for both winterizing and as an engine coolant. If you go up to 70% PG/30% water it brings you to 230* boil protection.
 

WIMUSKY

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My I/O had plenty of room to work around, so that was not an issue. However, my season was always cut short due to having to winterize the I/O. I downsized to an outboard because the I/O was getting to big for this old man to handle by myself. Wife is dissabled and kids are grown up with their own families, so if I want to go boating or fishing I am usually alone. Get an ocassional passenger, but if I had to rely on help in order to go, it wouldnt be worth having a boat. Yes the OB is less work and maintenence but I do miss my bigger boat.!!
There's times I'd love to have my bigger boat on bigger water. Had many good times on it. I didn't have the luxury of easy access around the motor. The stern covered the back half and I had to squeeze part of my body thru access panels.... Launching and retrieving is easier with the OB. Just alot less hassle all around. I have to winterize a motorhome, that's enough...
 

therosses5

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The marina that winterizes mine, which happens to be an authorized Merc and Volvo dealer/repair center, leaves the system empty. We freeze, hard sometimes, in NY.

Take it for what its worth.
I've used authorized dealers for 15 years. This my first year on my own. The Volvo Penta manual (5.0 GL) states to only drain it and then put the 4 peacocks and the hoses back on for the winter.
I was planning to follow a youtuber's method of pouring PG into the thermostat "housing" just as added protection and then remove the peacocks and hoses again just to coat whatever gets covered in that process.
Thoughts on what the manual states regarding draining only vs the process if using PG?
 

Scott Danforth

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I've used authorized dealers for 15 years. This my first year on my own. The Volvo Penta manual (5.0 GL) states to only drain it and then put the 4 peacocks and the hoses back on for the winter.
I was planning to follow a youtuber's method of pouring PG into the thermostat "housing" just as added protection and then remove the peacocks and hoses again just to coat whatever gets covered in that process.
Thoughts on what the manual states regarding draining only vs the process if using PG?
your fine.

the manuals used to have the optional pouring AF into the system via the T-stat housing with a funnel, however it was removed.

all that is needed is drain. if you are using PG, make sure to get the -100
 

H20Rat

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air don't freeze!

taken last year, 5 degree air temp, was about -20 that night. If you notice the bottom of the jug, it was significantly pushed out. The -75 AF was virtually rock hard.

 

Lou C

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I did the same test years ago with -50 & -60 and that’s why I used -100 which has a freeze point of like -45*F. Now I mix up some Sierra PG antifreeze with water 50/50. Less expensive & totally adequate for our coldest winter temps.
 

Lou C

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If you mix the Sierra PG 50/50 it gives freeze protection down to -26*F, you can vary the mix as you see fit for your conditions. Use an antifreeze refractometer it’s easier to use & more accurate. Anything that gets hard like that you don’t want inside a cast iron engine or exhaust manifold. The Sierra is an actual engine coolant…
 
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