Proper Winterization/maintenance at the end of season???

homey

Cadet
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
22
I have twin 1989 Johnson 150's. They run great, and had alot of maintenance done last march.(water pumps, thermostats, lower gear oil, plugs, and carbs cleaned) <br /><br />What would you suggest(maintenance)I do this year? They will be winterized, and lower unit oil changed. I put approx. 120 hours on them this year which included several trips offshore. I also ran "ringfree" fuel additive on those long trips offshore. Thank you for your suggestions.
 

The Marine Doctor

Commander
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
2,177
Re: Proper Winterization/maintenance at the end of season???

I have a guide for winterization on my site. I cannot post it here as the rules prohibit..but you can contact me and I will supply it.<br /><br />TMD
 

Skyhigh

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
131
Re: Proper Winterization/maintenance at the end of season???

Post I found:<br /><br />I just thought that for the benefit of those who would like to do the basic winterizing routine to ther boat when the time comes[late december??], we should share what we all do to our rigs for the winter lay-up. <br />I'll start things off. <br />First a thorough cleaning of the boat, motor, trailer. Add fuel stabilizer to a full gas tank[prevents condensation forming in fuel tank]. Run engine in lake/river or with hose attached to ear muffs on lower unit to draw fuel mixture into engine. Run for about 5 minutes, then disconnect fuel line and begin to spray fogging oil slowly[don't kill engine]. When it has run out of fuel pull the fuel line and sparkplugs.Thoroughly spray fogging oil in each cylinder. replace plugs but NOT the wires. Crank the engine a few turns to distribute the oil on the cylinder walls. Reconnect plug wires and fuel line. This is the time to pull the propeller and lube it checking for fishing line. Now you can drain the lower unit, make sure the motor is as close to vertical as possible. There are usually three screws to remove. There may be a few filings attached to the bottom screw, this is okay it may be magnetic. If you have not allredy purchased a small pump with a hose and threaded connection this will make the job easy[about $15any marine store]. Check the colour of the fluid. It should be nearly clear, NOT milky -this indicates moisture in the lower unit. The rubber seals on the drain srews could be failing or a propeller shaft seal[see mechanic]. If all is well Use the finger pump I mentioned filled with the appropriate type of lower unit lube. Fill ONLY from the bottom screw this will expell any air trapped in the lower unit. When the lube spills out of one of the upper vent holes replace one screw. Keep pumping till it flows from the other and replace that screw. The last screw will be a little messy, but not too much as the lube is thick and does not flow fast. Remove the pump hose from the lower screw hole and be ready to replace the last screw. All that is left is to grease all fittings and the lube the linkages in the motor head. One over looked part is the starter pinion gear. It is energized when you crank the engine to turn over the motor. Grease this part or the shaft it rides on so it will not stick. I had this happen[it would actually stay partly engaged to the flywheel and made the most terrible noise. I only use white lithium grease-water won't effect it. <br />Vacuum out the boat check screws and fittings. Remove batteries and charge. Store in the coolest part of your basement. Ckeck each month charge if necessary during the winter. <br />The last part is the trailer. Place it on stands So the wheels are off the ground. If you have a galvanized trailer [no paint] you are done. If it is painted spray it with wd40. This will prevent any rusting during the winter from the stone chips etc. I was amazed what a difference this made from one winter to the next. <br />This whole process shouldn't take more than 90 minutes if you have done it before. This will also save you a lot of money and give you the satisfaction of a job well done<br />Also When i put my trailer on jacks ($25 each canadian tire) make sure that they are under the leaf or behind the rear wheels I add a 2x4x4 just for that added stability. If you have a compressor a real good idea is to blow out your bilge pump and live well lines ( I have 2 wells) so it takes some time if you don't have a compressor rv stores have fittings for this and all you do is screw the fitting in and take it to any gas station with an air pump I usually get 1/2 gallon out of my lines. wipe the interior of your live well check all the pumps tighten any fittings around these pumps. I also disconect my electronics I have a gps 2 fish finders I spray a qtip with wd40 and wipe the connections> I also remove my prop to my trolling motor check it for line etc. The only other thing and I think that this is the most important thing to do I can't stress it enough once your done this get yourself a beer brave the cold and sit there thinking about the big one that got a way smile and go face the wife and kids for the winter
 

homey

Cadet
Joined
Jan 16, 2003
Messages
22
Re: Proper Winterization/maintenance at the end of season???

Skyhigh,<br /><br />Thanks for the reply, very informative. I'll begin your winterizing techniques in 2-3 weeks. (I'll also decarbonize)
 

Skyhigh

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2003
Messages
131
Re: Proper Winterization/maintenance at the end of season???

Homey your welcome, but it is not my post. I found it in this forum.
 
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