Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

[GT1000000]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

My 2?...

You have gained an education for the cost of a few hours work and about 60 bucks in materials...

If you go through the time and expense to seal up this transom plate, it will probably work, but you will always have the nagging feeling whether or not it is good enough...

I think it would be better for your peace of mind to get another sheet of plywood, a quart of Titebond III or Gorilla Glue...have your screws or clamps ready to go this time, forget bricks or driving your car on it...and make a transom plate you KNOW will be rock solid for whatever engine you want to hang on there...{ of course within the recommended capacity for that boat}...then seal that up and be done with it...

But, like I said, just my 2? worth...

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Is it flat enough now to be used as the transom core? If so, then I believe you can fill the gaps before you tape the edges? If not reasonably flat, then sounds like a "do-over"!

It's flat enough to put back in the boat but ill check again with a straight-edge.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

My 2?...

You have gained an education for the cost of a few hours work and about 60 bucks in materials...

If you go through the time and expense to seal up this transom plate, it will probably work, but you will always have the nagging feeling whether or not it is good enough...

I think it would be better for your peace of mind to get another sheet of plywood, a quart of Titebond III or Gorilla Glue...have your screws or clamps ready to go this time, forget bricks or driving your car on it...and make a transom plate you KNOW will be rock solid for whatever engine you want to hang on there...{ of course within the recommended capacity for that boat}...then seal that up and be done with it...



But, like I said, just my 2? worth...

I've debated doing this in my head multiple times..........Ill think about it some more but would a tiny air gap render it's strength?

 

[GT1000000]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I've debated doing this in my head multiple times..........Ill think about it some more but would a tiny air gap render it's strength?

I don't think a tiny air gap would make any difference, but are you sure that it is tiny and not throughout the piece...?

I didn't mean to sound as negative as I may have come across, but it seemed from your posts that your were having enough issues with the transom as to warrant a re-do...:redface:

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I don't think a tiny air gap would make any difference, but are you sure that it is tiny and not throughout the piece...?

I didn't mean to sound as negative as I may have come across, but it seemed from your posts that your were having enough issues with the transom as to warrant a re-do...:redface:

Yes, I was very frustrated........ air gap throughout the whole piece? idk lollll. Some parts have no gaps?

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Ill think about it some more but would a tiny air gap render it's strength?

No! You could put two loose pieces of plywood in the transom with the rest of the original design structure and fasteners and it would be just as strong. However, from that moment on, water will be trying to rot the plywood which is the real concern about strength. Your focus now needs to be on sealing the new core to prevent water saturation/rot.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

I wish I knew how to draw a picture on this site.

Thanks to member kfa4303, I finally found MS Paint on my new computer and have attempted to draw the arrangement I suggested previously for making your new transom cap. Two separate pieces of aluminum sheet cut to the full width of your new plywood transom core and extending far enough vertically on both the inside and outside to cover the plywood core. By overlapping them on the top and sealing that lap joint and the side joints at the gunwales with 5200, you should be "waterproof for many years. Good luck!

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

HI coolguy. Cool boat you got there! Being a fellow Floridian (Tallahassee), I love all the old local boats. I have a an old 14' semi-V hull tinny runabout that I've converted to a tiller flats skiff sorta thing. I think I might have a solution for your transom. I had a similar problem on my rig. My '66 20 hp Johnson has a leg that is about 18" long, which makes it longer than a traditional 15" short shaft, but shorter than a 20" long shaft. As a result, the motor would sit a little low in the water and cause excess drag. I fixed it by building a small transom riser to get the anti-vent plate, found just above the prop, to be level with the keel of the boat. A similar set up should also work for you. I would start fresh on the transom by getting 2 layers of 3/4" non-PT, exterior grade plywood and glue them together with PL premium, or Titebond. Try to get the wood as flat as possible and use small stainless steel screws to draw the two layers tight. However, rather than knocking off the tips that come through, I would buy smaller screws that can't/won't protrude once seated. After the glue cures, you can dry fit the transom and pre-drill the holes for the stainless steel hardware you'll use to mount it with. Once the holes are drilled, it will be time to seal the transom. There are several materials you can use. 2-part epoxy is nice, but pricey, messy and you usually have to order it, you could also use fiberglass mat and wax-free polyester resin, but it has the same draw backs as epoxy. A nice alternative is to use several coats (3-4) of Spar Urethane to seal the wood. You can get it at any lowes/HD and one quart will be plenty. After it dries you can leave the clear coat, or paint it as you like. You will then mount it to the transom using all ss hardware dipped in 3M 5200 marine sealant just prior to installation. You can get the ss hardware and 5200 at lowes/hd also. Now that the transom is securely bolted in place, we can work on the transom riser. Rather than making the entire transom larger, we'll simply build a bolt-on portion that will bring the motor to the desired height (i.e. anti-vent plate level with the keel). I made mine out of 2 pieces of 1/4" aluminum C-channel and a piece of 2" x 6" lumber. Here : http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=560771
You could fabricate a similar riser, or buy one of the many after market jackplates available. Check out Bobs machine shop.com for ideas. Either way, I would look for a bolt-on solution, rather than trying to alter the structure and lines of the boat. Of course, if may be easier to simply find a standard/short shaft motor (15"), in which case you shouldn't have to modify the transom much at all. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

some pics of examples.....

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

LOL i love your little drawings in your thread!

I thought about doing a jack plate too. The ones on iboats only allow up to 40hp. I saw one on craigslist for $100 but idk...I just didn't feel the jack plate would be strong enough for my boat.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Thanks to member kfa4303, I finally found MS Paint on my new computer and have attempted to draw the arrangement I suggested previously for making your new transom cap. Two separate pieces of aluminum sheet cut to the full width of your new plywood transom core and extending far enough vertically on both the inside and outside to cover the plywood core. By overlapping them on the top and sealing that lap joint and the side joints at the gunwales with 5200, you should be "waterproof for many years. Good luck!


View attachment 167215

I planned on use chop mat on the top of the wood and sealing the rest of it with fiberglass resin.

I do have the original cap that I plan on retrofitting so it will be flat with the new transom.

I'm going to seal the wood and the mount it in...then ill focus on the cap?

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

After thinking about it......maybe i should get a jack plate?

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

one thing i'm worried about though is if my old transom is able to hold that kind of leverage with the jack plate and all? The old wood again is perfectly fine.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

nvm, i think the wood that i have now will be better in the long run. I can always get some sheet metal from a shop and glue it in place.

i'm going to bring the wood to school so i can put it on a table saw and make the top even and flush with each other.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

If you build a new transom to out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood as described, it will be stronger than a single piece of oak and plenty strong for what you have in mind. Vintage 2-strokes are surprisingly light albeit a bit bulky. My old '66 33 hp Johnson was light enough for me to lift on/off the boat by myself. A lot of pro bass and offshore fishermen are using jackplates on their +200 hp 4-stroke motors. Of course, you don't need to buy the wiz-bang versions in the pics, but the size of the motor isn't really the issue.

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

If you build a new transom to out of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood as described, it will be stronger than a single piece of oak and plenty strong for what you have in mind. Vintage 2-strokes are surprisingly light albeit a bit bulky. My old '66 33 hp Johnson was light enough for me to lift on/off the boat by myself. A lot of pro bass and offshore fishermen are using jackplates on their +200 hp 4-stroke motors. Of course, you don't need to buy the wiz-bang versions in the pics, but the size of the motor isn't really the issue.

View attachment 167311View attachment 167312View attachment 167313

Everybody on craigslist is selling a two piece manual jack plate and if this was a new boat i would put it on there but it's not. the one pieces are like starting at $300


I'm putting a 1985 60 hp on it....

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration



I put fiberglass cloth on the top and ran it along the side. Put 1qt of resin on it and used every last drop to seal the wood.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Attaboy!

 

[coolguy147]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Well, kinda lost about what to do now. I have the wood ready to be put in but I'm not quite sure how to mount it correctly. The metal outer hull is a little warped and doesn't quite conform to the wood. Either i'm going to need to find some big c-clamps to mash the metal with the wood or something. I might get a picture to show you what i'm talking about.

 

[mark1961]

Re: Orlando Clipper Customization/Restoration

Do you intend to have a transom pad for the motor?......Post up the pics so we can see where its warped.