OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

[vonway]

Is the drain plug the one that should have the magnet on it.?? and when filling after draining, do i first replace the top check screw(plug) and then the fill.. or the fill screw then the top plug?? oil came out when i removed the filler hose and replaced the fill with out the top screw in ...?? should i get the air out or is there any ?? thanks

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

I'm assuming this is an OMC Cobra. As per OMC:<br /><br />Remove dipstick on top. Remove bottom (drain) plug (has magnet on it) and drain. Replace bottom plug. Put the dipstick plug in the dipstick hole but just rest it on top, don't screw it in at this point. Remove fill plug and fill until oil registers at the proper level on the dipstick (I believe it takes either 60 or 64 ozs depending on your engine). Screw in dipstick (creating an airlock), remove filler hose, and replace fill screw. (OMC recommends new nylon washers for each of the three outdrive holes.) <br /><br />Recheck dipstick after operating drive to ensure proper oil level after any air pockets work their way to the top. NOTER: after the initial fill, drive oil level is checked with the dipstick screwed in the entire way.<br /><br />Hope this helps.

 

[marunr]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Originally posted by LakeLivin:<br /><br /><br /> NOTER: after the initial fill, drive oil level is checked with the dipstick screwed in the entire way.<br /><br />

LakeLivin,<br />My manual says check with the dipstick resting on top.

 

[vonway]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

i didnt rest the dipstick to create airlock, and just removed filler tube of oil and put plug in, some oil leaked out --- but very little, then i screwed in the dipstick. NOW i have anohter problem, soon after this procedure, i went to the launch and put the boat in.(NOTE) tons of seaweed.<br />started up and drove down the canal.. about 2 minutes in , i notice the temp guage almost to 240...wooooooaah.. turn around just before entering the lake and head back to my slip. Now it starts to run rough, and just as i get back the temp starts to drop and goes back down to 180 but the engine is still running real rough. I shut down for a bit , check the fuel filter for water and none, so i reinstall it. Start up again and still rough running.??? WHAT happened? THanks, <br />So bummed out

 

[marunr]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

What you do is screw in the dipstick to create an airlock, then remove the filler tube, put the screw in to the filler hole, then remove the dipstick to check the level and add more, if necessary, due to the loss out of the filler hole. <br /><br />Did you look on the engine oil dipstick to see if water got in to the engine? If it overheated it may have blown a head gasket. There's also a good chance the seaweed blocked the water intake and destroyed the impellar. <br /><br />I'm sure I don't have to say it, but you should have shut it down when the temp shot up.<br /><br />look at this post:<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=012985

 

[vonway]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

what??? a head gasket.. hope not. I did look at the oil and no water seeemed to be there. Temp went back down to normAl after,, so would head gasket keep temp up?? DAMN how do i test this::?

 

[vonway]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Would the engine still run, (rough) with a head blown... what else could it be,, wierd that it would run so rough right after launching. Ran perfect on Fri when we pulled it out of the water. Water pump wouldnt make it run rough wouldit???

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

marunr, what year/ engine do you have? For my '89 4.3L Cobra, the Owner's - Operator's manual states:<br /><br />"Occasionally check the oil level in the vertical drive. Fully thread the dipstick into the hole, then remove it to check the oil level."<br /><br />It also has the following NOTE:<br /><br />"The oil level in the vertical drive must be checked by fully threading the dipstick into the hole. Improper oil level may result in serious vertical drive damage." <br /><br />When refilling the drive it states:<br /><br />"Fill vertical drive with OMC Hi-Vis gearcase lubricant through the oil fill plug location. The vertical drive is properly filled when the oil level appears at the mark on the oil dipstick. Check oil level with the dipstick cap resting on top of the hole." <br /><br />It also has the following NOTE w.r.t. refilling the drive:<br /><br />"When completely changing the lubricant in the vertical drive, the oil level must be checked with dipstick cap resting on top of the hole. Improper oil level may result in serious vertical drive damage." <br /><br />I'm guessing the difference is to put a bit more oil into the drive when completely refilling to accomodate the leakage when replacing the fill plug or the effects of any small air pockets that will eventually make their way to the top when refilling the drive. Also, they may want to make sure noone tries to refill the drive with the dipstick screwed in, which I imagine could lead to some major air pockets. <br /><br />One other thing I forgot to mention is that the drive should be refilled and the level checked with the drive in the down position. <br /><br />yknots, I don't think resting the dipstick in the hole would create an airlock. Although it might slow down the flow out of the drain hole, you'd need to screw the dipstick in to maximize the airlock (minimize the fluid you lose when replacing the fill plug).<br /><br />w.r.t. your other problems, sorry I don't have the experience to be of much help. Like marunr said, if the water intake was blocked by seaweed, wouldn't take the impellar long to self destruct, leading to lack of water getting to the engine. I don't know enough to suggest what problems that might have caused or how to diagnose them....

 

[marunr]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Originally posted by yknots:<br /> Would the engine still run, (rough) with a head blown... what else could it be,, wierd that it would run so rough right after launching. Ran perfect on Fri when we pulled it out of the water. Water pump wouldnt make it run rough wouldit???

With a blown head gasket the engine will run rough because water is in the combustion chamber. If there isn't water in the oil I don't know what other ways there are to test it on a raw water sytem like a boat, short of pulling the head. You will probably need to post a new topic about the rough idle to get some help from the pros. <br /> As far as the temp going down, you said it dropped while you were heading back to the slip. That is possible because the movement of the boat forced water up through the water intake, and thereby cooled the engine. When idling, if the impellar is destroyed, the engine can't draw any water up to cool it. So...temp goes up while idling, down when moving. Just a few seconds without water can destroy the impellar.<br /><br />

It also has the following NOTE:<br /><br />"The oil level in the vertical drive must be checked by fully threading the dipstick into the hole. Improper oil level may result in serious vertical drive damage." <br />

"Fill vertical drive with OMC Hi-Vis gearcase lubricant through the oil fill plug location. The vertical drive is properly filled when the oil level appears at the mark on the oil dipstick. Check oil level with the dipstick cap resting on top of the hole." <br />

Lakelivin, this is the same thing my manual says (1988) It seems to be a conflict! Maybe the level is ok as long as it reaches the mark while threaded in but is full when it reaches the mark while it's resting on top. BTW, can you post that drawing sometime for the outdrive holder?

 

[vonway]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

thanks guys.. guess i need to check the cylinders for water... hope to God its not a blown head.. PLEASE

 

[marunr]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Originally posted by yknots:<br /> thanks guys.. guess i need to check the cylinders for water... hope to God its not a blown head.. PLEASE

If it's just a blown head gasket that's not so bad. If the head is cracked, that's a different story. Try posting with this problem (rough running after getting hot). The mechanics on the board may have some other, easier things to check.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[vonway]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

will do,,, hope it s not serious

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

marunr,<br /><br />it's really not an inconsistency in that they instruct you to measure with the dipstick resting on top of the hole only when you're changing the drive oil and are refilling the entire drive.<br /><br />the instructions to measure with the dipstick screwed in all the way are for when the drive already has oil in it. <br /><br />Like I mentioned above, I'd guess the difference is so that you put a bit more oil into the drive when changing the oil to accomodate leakage when replacing the fill plug or the effects of any small air pockets that form when refilling the drive (the fill level line being a bit higher with the dipstick resting on top of the hole instead of being screwed in). After operating the drive for a bit (or perhaps just raising & lowering it several times after changing the oil), air pockets should have worked their way to the top and an accurate reading would be made with the dipstick fully screwed in.<br /><br />My recommendation to those new to changing outdrive oil in their Cobras would be to note the amount you put in it and make sure that it's close to the Cobra specs. Pretty sure it's either 60 or 64oz, depending on engine (I know my '89 4.3 liter Cobra takes 64 oz). Then remeasure (with dipstick screwed in) after operating the drive a bit (or raising & lowering it several times) so that any air has had a chance to work it's way to the top and you can get an accurate measurement.<br /><br />I'll be glad to post pics & specs on the outdrive holder I built. It works great; pulling and putting the drive back on with just one person is so easy I almost feel guilty. And I've tested it a couple of times cause I'm still struggling to get my new transom shift cable adjusted correctly. Things seem perfect, then I put the drive back on & find that the 7 9/16" measurement on the engine end of the cable has changed. Still messing with the boat, thats why I haven't had time to post the pics & dimensions yet. But I'll try to get to it within the next couple of days.

 

[marunr]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Originally posted by LakeLivin:<br /> <br /><br />Like I mentioned above, I'd guess the difference is so that you put a bit more oil into the drive when changing the oil to accomodate leakage when replacing the fill plug or the effects of any small air pockets that form when refilling the drive (the fill level line being a bit higher with the dipstick resting on top of the hole instead of being screwed in). After operating the drive for a bit (or perhaps just raising & lowering it several times after changing the oil), air pockets should have worked their way to the top and an accurate reading would be made with the dipstick fully screwed in.<br /><br /><br />

I see. I guess I overcomplicated it. I've always checked mine with it resting on top, so I guess it's been ok. (17 years) <br /><br />I wonder what's happening with the measurement on your cable? Somehow the shift rod must be moving the bellcrank when you put the outdrive back on. Is the shift rod height correct? Are you sure it's in neutral?

 

[Robar]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Greetings - please post info about the outdrive holder - I'm going to be in need of one - bad news/good news - need some maintenance & repairs, but I guess I am going to learn a bit about the outdrive. TIA

 

[pra100]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Laklivin<br />Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble with that shift cable.How close are you getting to the 7 9/16?<br />The simplest way I found on drive oil is to above all make sure you get the 64 oz.in it,then you know you don't have a air pocket in it some place.If it holds 64 oz.then it is full,or at least that is the way mine has gone.<br />A neighbor of mine changed his drive oil on his new old cobra and he had always been a merc.person.You know where I am going here.He filled it from the bottom till it came out the dipstick.His drive lasted about 10 mins before he lost the upper gears.He then came over and ask me what I thought had happen.I ask him if he filled it from the bottom and sure thing,he had.<br />He said he wondered why it didn't hold but 32 oz.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

marinur & Phillip A.- I did measure the shift rod height & it's correct. I ended up with a measurement of over 8" at the engine with the drive back on. I think what happened is that after I had all the measurements correct, I threaded the retainer on till it just touched the cable guide, and put the retainer set bolt in hand tight. Measurement at engine still ok at this point. The instructions state that you should push the cable guide all the way back in before using a wrench to tighten it. I think I assumed that the length at the engine end would be "locked in" once the retainer was on and the retainer set bolt hand tight. Suspect that when I pushed the retainer guide all the way in to tighten the set bolt I lengthened the setting at the engine end, and didn't remeasure before putting the drive back on (foolish me). <br /><br />Am trying to figure out a way to 'lock' the setting at the engine end at 7 9/16" without the OMC tool. <br /><br />Thinking about putting the cable trunnion in it's socket to hold the cable in place, hooking up the casing guide to the shift pin on the shift arm, and rotating the shift arm till I get the 7 9/16" (nothing else is connected to the shift arm at this point). Then I can clamp the shift arm so it doesn't move. Pretty sure this should 'lock in' the 7 9/16" at the engine end, and hopefully prevent any slippage while I'm adjusting things at the transom end.<br /><br />Phillip A.- tell your neighbor to get a service manual for future reference, but not to feel too bad about the screw up. I had a DEALERSHIP do the same thing to my Cobra. Then they claimed the resulting damage wasn't from their screw up! (long post last fall about that 'adventure')

 

[pra100]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Hey he bought him a manual when he bought his new set of gears.I did show him how to change it the next time I changed mine.<br />Lakelivin if I remeber in Hastings notes he said it was best to do with 2 people or a lot of climbing in and out of boat to adjust that 7 9/16.What I did was set it up as you stated at engine end,then I had my wife set top side with a piece of flat steel I cut to 7 9/16.I had her keep it wedged up against the brass trunnion and and shift pin and hold it tight there while I set the drive end.Worked out pretty good.I go back and check it ever so often to see if it is mantaining the 7 9/16 and after all of last year and through this year it is still the same distance.

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

marunr & robar: picture and details about the Cobra outdrive holder I built have been added to the following iB post:<br /><br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=011664#000009

 

[lakelivin]

Re: OMC drive fill plug and drain plug>

Originally posted by Philip A.:<br /> ...Lakelivin if I remeber in Hastings notes he said it was best to do with 2 people or a lot of climbing in and out of boat to adjust that 7 9/16.What I did was set it up as you stated at engine end,then I had my wife set top side with a piece of flat steel I cut to 7 9/16.I had her keep it wedged up against the brass trunnion and and shift pin and hold it tight there while I set the drive end.Worked out pretty good.I go back and check it ever so often to see if it is mantaining the 7 9/16 and after all of last year and through this year it is still the same distance.

Phillip, yeah, he did say he had to climb in & out 6 or 7 times. Haven't had a helper handy, (most of my neighbors are weekenders, I live here year full time). I may need to import one, lol. <br /><br />You mentioned that you had your wife hold the dimension between the brass trunnion and the shift pin at 7 9/16" (a piece of steel that length would be handy, wonder if I could get the needed precision using a hacksaw?). But both Stuarts site and the OMC service manual specify that the 7 9/16" measurement is the distance between the CENTER of the shift pin hole and the edge of the cable crimp, not the brass trunnion. <br /><br />Was the trunion positioned at it's extreme end of travel towards the transom (cable crimp) end? Did you perhaps adjust the length of the steel to a distance between the edge of the trunnion and the edge of the shift pin that wasn't 7 9/16", but was equivalent to what 7 9/16" would be from the edge of the cable crimp to the center of the shift pin hole? That might be a good way to do it, because with just a straight edge, you've got to place it over the trunnion AND the plastic casing in order to measure from cable crimp to shift pin hole. Which makes it tough to be sure you're directly aligned with the key points, since you can't rest the straight edge directly on either.