Mercury 6.2L ECT Seacore Alternator Replacement . . .

tpenfield

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I replaced the alternator on the starboard engine today . . . 6 hrs

It looks like the engine was built around the alternator as it is quite buried under the heat exchanger and mounts onto the cross-over assembly. Total nightmare.
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I thought I would document a bit of the process for those who may be needing to do the same on one of these in-house (Mercury) built engines (6.2 or 4.5). I think the RWC versions (Red Labels) are more straight forward, the SeaCore (Blue Labels) are a challenge.

The problem is that you need to get to the back of the alternator to remove the fasteners and the wiring, as there is hardly any slack to the wiring.
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The key steps were:
1) I had to drain down about 1/2 of the coolant . . .

2) Then remove the cowling and unfasten the PCM and its base so you can pull it along with the wiring harness out of the way. I had to cut a few zip-ties along the way.

3) The port side bolt holding the alternator in place comes from the back and threads to the front, so there is a hose that has to come off to allow access.

4) The hose that comes from the top of the starboard exhaust manifold to the heat exchanger need to be un-done. and the straps holding the heat exchanger need to come off.

5) Then it was a matter of lifting and propping up the heat exchanger high enough to get good access to the alternator. I'm sure the service manual prescribed method is to remove the heat exchanger entirely . . . I was not about to do that, so I just lifted it up about 3" on the starboard side to access the wiring.
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6) Even so, it took a little finesse to get the old alternator out.
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Alternator removed . . .
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Here is the new one ready to go in. . . . just checking vs. the original one to make sure they match.
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7) Things go back together pretty much in the reverse order.
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Overall, not a great design by any means and a half inch of room here or there would have made a world of difference. But . . . pretty typical for I/O engines.

By the time I got things put back together, it was beer o'clock, 🍺 So I'll do a few finishing touches tomorrow and test the new alternator out. :D
 
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alldodge

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Nice write up
Just guessing, but if it was raw water cooled or if HE was removed it would be a bit easier :unsure:

Your thoughts?

Raw is 10lb in 5lb bag, with HE is 15lb in 5lb bag
 

tpenfield

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Nice write up
Just guessing, but if it was raw water cooled or if HE was removed it would be a bit easier :unsure:

Your thoughts?

Raw is 10lb in 5lb bag, with HE is 15lb in 5lb bag
Yes, if you take the entire heat exchanger off, it would be a lot easier. . . not sure it would save any time though, vs. just unstrapping it and lifting enough out of the way.
 

tpenfield

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BTW - The rubber band (aka serpentine belt) is a Mercury 8M0088876, which looks to be a 6PK1687 or 6PK1690 generic belt.

Mercury P/N sells in the $70 range, the aftermarket belts are about half that.
 

nola mike

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Is this a $100 alternator or a Merc only special? If the latter, what would it take to rebuild the original?
 

matt167

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BTW - The rubber band (aka serpentine belt) is a Mercury 8M0088876, which looks to be a 6PK1687 or 6PK1690 generic belt.

Mercury P/N sells in the $70 range, the aftermarket belts are about half that.
The belt for my 3.0L without power steering was $40 for quicksilver, $20 for Sierra and $6 at Napa
 

tpenfield

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Is this a $100 alternator or a Merc only special? If the latter, what would it take to rebuild the original?
I went all out and spent $105 on the alternator ( + tax). It is an Arrowhead Electric ADR-0316, aka DB Electrical 400-12299, aka Delco 8600612

In my previous adventures getting new distributors for my other boat, I came to realize that these components, which mostly come from China, are not well marked in many cases. I went through a fairly pain-staking process to make sure it is a marine-rated part. If you put the part in a Mercury labeled box it magically gains $250 in retail price. :ROFLMAO:

Yes, I may have the old alternator diagnosed/fixed to keep as a spare.
 

tpenfield

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Quick Update . . .

OMG . . . it's working !!! :oops:

I ran the starboard engine for a while . . . normal voltages at idle and fast idle. It even likes the DC-DC charger. (y)

On to fixing the outdrives . . . :rolleyes:
 

Pmt133

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That looks like a 7SI alternator? If so.... the regulator/brush/bearing kits are like $35 for the "marine" approved parts if memory serves. Always nice to have a spare.
 

tpenfield

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That looks like a 7SI alternator? If so.... the regulator/brush/bearing kits are like $35 for the "marine" approved parts if memory serves. Always nice to have a spare.
It is a 7SI . . . .
 

nola mike

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I went all out and spent $105 on the alternator ( + tax). It is an Arrowhead Electric ADR-0316, aka DB Electrical 400-12299, aka Delco 8600612

In my previous adventures getting new distributors for my other boat, I came to realize that these components, which mostly come from China, are not well marked in many cases. I went through a fairly pain-staking process to make sure it is a marine-rated part. If you put the part in a Mercury labeled box it magically gains $250 in retail price. :ROFLMAO:

Yes, I may have the old alternator diagnosed/fixed to keep as a spare.
I would have thought that mercury would have had a proprietary alternator by now. My mini (and your BMW) have rube goldberg'd the charging system into some computer controlled nightmare.
 

tpenfield

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That looks like a 7SI alternator? If so.... the regulator/brush/bearing kits are like $35 for the "marine" approved parts if memory serves. Always nice to have a spare.
Quick Update . . .

I took the back cover off the original alternator to see about repairing it. Things looked a bit far gone (corrosion, etc.), so I decided to make this alternator 'end-of-life'.

As per my other thread on the engine electrical issue, the replacement alternator had a defect. So, I returned it and ordered another one from Arco Marine.

I did come across this reference page on the Arco Marine website, that I thought was useful about 'Marine' alternator differences from Automotive versions.

https://arcomarine.com/pages/alternator-tech-tips
 

Pmt133

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Quick Update . . .

I took the back cover off the original alternator to see about repairing it. Things looked a bit far gone (corrosion, etc.), so I decided to make this alternator 'end-of-life'.

As per my other thread on the engine electrical issue, the replacement alternator had a defect. So, I returned it and ordered another one from Arco Marine.

I did come across this reference page on the Arco Marine website, that I thought was useful about 'Marine' alternator differences from Automotive versions.

https://arcomarine.com/pages/alternator-tech-tips
After seeing a couple shots of some other things in the bilge in the other thread, I had anticipated just that. Luckily even a new one is "cheap" even for boat dollars.

And thanks for the read. 🍻
 

tpenfield

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Quick Update . . . .

The 2nd new alternator is installed (Arco Marine). I connected the wiring and tested the voltage on the 'purple' wire, which was about 11.8 volts static . . . equal to the other engine.

FWIW - and those considering the Arco Alternators for these engines . . .

P/N 20800 is the 70 amp 65 mm serpentine pulley
P/N 20815 is the 70 amp 50 mm serpentine pulley

I inadvertently ordered the one with the 65 mm pulley (instead of the 50 mm pulley), So, I went up a size on the serpentine belt to compensate.

BTW - the standard belt size on these 6.2L ECT engines is 66.5" (6PK1690) I find a 6PK1700 is actually a better fit.
 

Pmt133

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So technically you lose a little output with a larger pulley? I'm on vacation and the brain doesn't want to math but I don't think it actually going to make that much of a difference though....
 

flashback

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So technically you lose a little output with a larger pulley? I'm on vacation and the brain doesn't want to math but I don't think it actually going to make that much of a difference though....
Couple of rpm is all.
 
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