Kicker bracket as a jack plate??

[mandpeter]

Hi everyone, I just bought a 16ft mirrocraft deep fisherman, and it has a 15" transom. the 25hp merc i have has a 20" shaft. can i use an adjustable kicker bracket as a jack plate for it? most jack plates I have seen only go up 1-2" and are wildly expensive. the bracket is rated for 25hp.

also is 25hp enough for that boat? it pushed my 15ft welded mod-v just fine but i know when you get into v-hull you need more motor?

 

[ondarvr]

What is the boat rated for (HP), and what kind of kicker bracket are you talking about, there are many kinds?

Also, there are easy ways to raise the motor.

 

[mandpeter]

http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Aluminum-Outboard-Bracket-Stroke/dp/B006ZOX3VS

Th is style but rated for 25hp. Not sure what the boat is rated for (pre uscg plate) but its 16ft 64" beam semi v.

What would be an easier way? I know I could extend the transom wood but how strong is that with a 25hp? And other options?

 

[Teamster]

I would use that for a main motor,............

How about one of these???,..........

 

[Teamster]

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[Teamster]

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[Teamster]

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[Teamster]

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[gm280]

Personally I don't think I would use that kicker bracket to allow a higher setup for your main drive. I see future issues with the pivot bolts. That would compound the force at those points and possibly break from the constant driving forced. JMHO! I think a better option would be to buy some thick aluminum metal and build a solid higher mounting plate to install your longer footed engine on. Some 3/4" or even 1" thick aluminum plate would surely work for that. Just bolt to the existing engine bolt holes that are there now and cut it higher to accommodate your needs. That will be a solid foundation that will take the load from that engine.

 

[ondarvr]

Two pieces of 1/4' aluminum and plywood sandwiched between them. The aluminum extends down the transom and is through bolted. The plywood sandwiched part extends up to the height you need

 

[Don Hansen]

My 1980 16ft Mirro is rated for 40 hp. My 35 hp rude pushes it at 25 mph by GPS.

DLH

 

[ondarvr]

In fact you don't even need 1/4" aluminum, thinner would work fine.

 

[airshot]

My 1980 16ft Mirro is rated for 40 hp. My 35 hp rude pushes it at 25 mph by GPS.

DLH

Just how heavy is your boat? I believe it should run faster than that unless you are carrying some extra weight. I had a 16 mirro some years back with an older 35 and it would run over 30 with two adults and fishing gear with the right prop. Just suggesting here.....may look into why it isn't performing better...gas is expensive..

 

[Don Hansen]

Just how heavy is your boat? I believe it should run faster than that unless you are carrying some extra weight. I had a 16 mirro some years back with an older 35 and it would run over 30 with two adults and fishing gear with the right prop. Just suggesting here.....may look into why it isn't performing better...gas is expensive..

Sounds a lot like my rig.

My motor is a 1980 that I've had since new. Have always replaced the prop with the same pitch it came with. With the price of props have never thought about experimenting. There is on thing though. I don't have a tach but with only me in the boat the motor does sound a little harsh so I usually back off a bit.

DLH

 

[fishrdan]

If you're handy, here's your solution. (Can't believe I actually found this material...)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6061-T6-Alum...item2ecaf5fb5e

Buy a length of this 1/4" aluminum Z bar to make the height change, cut the the correct length(s). Sandwich glue a couple pieces of 3/4 plywood for the outboard mount plate, bolt this to the Z bar.

Like this from former forum member tashasdaddy (RIP).

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...ade-jack-plate

 

[fishrdan]

Oh yeah, I wouldn't use that kicker mount bracket you linked to, not built for your purpose and it wouldn't be solid like you'll want. All those pivot points will allow slop into the mount.