Johnson 1968 33hp

boatbeginner1

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I recently purchased a Johnson 1968 33 Hp outboard. I am fixing up an Old Starcraft Jet Star 15 so I am hoping to get the engine to work. I have no experince working with outbaords and would rather not pay the $100 people are asking to get it looked at so im hoping the iBoats community can help me!

It looks like its been tampered with a little but I'm not 100% sure.

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bullcity101

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Mar 30, 2012
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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Do you have experience with engines at all? I say that because most water cooled engines work the same way for the most part, there have been changes to the technology but, fuel, air, compression, spark FIRE! Did you get the compression checked before buying? I would do that first. Second, turn the engine over and test the spark with a gap tester. See if it's getting fuel to the carb. If all those are a go, see if it'll run. Only run it for a minute to check and see if the water pump is working. Water should be spitting out the exhust. If not it needs a new water pump kit.

Check the sticky threads for bringing an old outboard to life. Good info there.
 

boatbeginner1

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

I have no experince with outboards. I boat the boat with an engine, boat, and trailer for $300 so I think I got a good deal. I will check the sticky notes!
 

JB

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

There is an excellent article in the Engine FAQs Forum on "Awakening a sleeping outboard", BB1. Give it a look.
 

lindy46

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Looks like the head has been replaced at some time in the past. Also the flywheel is one designed for a generator, which this engine doesn't have. The starter is also from a different motor. This is not necessarily "bad" - just indicates that work has been done, which isn't unusual for a 40+ year old motor. As mentioned, check compression first. If it has good compression, most everything else can be dealt with for a reasonable amount of money for parts, if you do your own labor.
 

boatbeginner1

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

I looked at the thread you had me look at. WIll continue later today.

Is there a general diagram of where parts of engine are? What they do? etc.

@lindy46 - What parts would I need to buy to get it back closer to originial. I plan on doing my own labor.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Hi beginnner. Cool toy you got there. I used to have a '66 33 hp myself. Great old motor with lots of low end torque. Best of all these old motors are pretty dang easy to fix and get running again. As previously stated you really only need 3 things to get her going. Compression (over 90 psi in each cylinder), Spark (should jump 1/4" gap), Fuel (carb rebuild). Assuming the compression is ok, all the rest can be fixed with ease. You can get any routine parts you may need like points & condensers, impeller, carb kits, etc... right here at iboats for about $20 each. Here are some great links that will familiarize you with your motor. Once you've gone over them a few times, let us know and we'll bring that beast back to life.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/max/24/index.cfm (great overall tune up link)

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=33&model=RXE-16M (parts catalog with exploded diagrams)

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...on 3 HP 1952-1967 Ignition System Tune-up.htm (great ignition rebuild link)

http://www.outboard-boat-motor-repa...hnson 5.5 HP 1954-1964 Carburetor Tune-UP.htm (great carb rebuild link)
 

lindy46

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

@lindy46 - What parts would I need to buy to get it back closer to originial. I plan on doing my own labor.

A can of original color paint. The starter and bracket were pretty much the same for many years other than color of paint, as is the case with the head. I wouldn't worry about the flywheel - the only difference is the the top toothed gear where the generator belt rides. Non-generator models were missing that piece. Either flywheel will work fine.
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Also I have a RXEL-16R not an m. Are they the same

Here's the catalog for the RXEL-16R. The "E" means it is and electric start and the "L" means it is a longshaft motor. To check the compression, first removing both spark plugs, then treading in an automotive style compression tester. You can pick one up at any auto store. They may even let you borrow, or rent it. You then thread the tester into one of the spark plugs holes and turn the motor over several times using the starter by holding the start button for 3-4 seconds. Repeat the procedure on the second spark plug hole, then compare the two figures.They should be over 80-90 psi and be within 10% of each other. Here's a vid that may help. Assuming the compression is ok, all the rest can be fixed pretty easily. If the compression is low, or greatly imbalanced, then there may be bigger issues.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=33&model=RXEL-16R

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I
 

boatbeginner1

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

@lindy46 - Thank you. Do you know where I can find the decals?

@kfa4303 - Thank you for the information! I will try to buy/rent/borrow a ompression tester Today or tommorow. Lets see if we an get this engine up and running tomoorow!
 

jay_merrill

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Looks like the head has been replaced at some time in the past. Also the flywheel is one designed for a generator, which this engine doesn't have. The starter is also from a different motor. This is not necessarily "bad" - just indicates that work has been done, which isn't unusual for a 40+ year old motor. As mentioned, check compression first. If it has good compression, most everything else can be dealt with for a reasonable amount of money for parts, if you do your own labor.

I have several J33s and have owned a pair of Erude Bigtwins - I believe that the flywheel that he has is standard for an electric start motor, whether it has a generator or not. This flywheel has been used on the electric start models back through the OMC 28hp of the early 60s and 35hp motors of the fifties. I believe that it was used on the 35 & 40 hp "fat midsection" motors (superquiet) as well.

The manual start motors have a flywheel without the generator "sprocket" or the gear ring for the starter.

I think that the OP's best bet is to go through all of the systems (fuel, spark & water) one at a time. The investment isn't that large and will result in a decent & reliable motor, assuming that the engine is generally sound mechanically. The compression check is a good place to start.
 

boatbeginner1

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

@jay_merrill, are you saying my engine is mostly original than? I'm trying to keep or original as most as I can.

@lindy- thanks! Il try!
 

kfa4303

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Where can I buy a cheap compression tester?

Any auto store, Harbor Freight, or hardware store should have a compression tester. Many auto stores will let you rent or borrow them too. Your motor looks pretty original and all of the major components seem to be there. Assuming the compression is ok, you should only need to replace the basic consumable parts like the points & condensers, carb kit, and lower unit seals.
 

samo_ott

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

I have a couple of 33's also. $300 for it all is a good deal. They are simple engines to work on. Follow the threads and you'll be fine.
 

boatbeginner1

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

Alright il look Ito those! I built well am building an engine stand so soon it's coming off te boat!
 

jay_merrill

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Re: Johnson 1968 33hp

@jay_merrill, are you saying my engine is mostly original than? I'm trying to keep or original as most as I can.

@lindy- thanks! Il try!

Yup, I do think its mostly original. The starter and starter bracket likely came off of another engine, but they are the same as what your motor would have had.

One thing that does bother me about your motor, however, is the red wiring going to the vacuum cutout. The circuit involved is a ground, not a "hot" circuit, so the wires should be black. If the unit is actually wired as a ground, you're OK, but you should double check. The purpose of the cutout switch is to "kill" one of the coils in the event of an rpm runaway, which can sometime happen if you pull power off too quickly.
 
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