hull repair finish/paint questions

[lagoon bandit]

so I just got done patching 2 holes on the bottom of my hull I patched them up with epoxy resin and glass then I mixed up a paste of microballoons and epoxy resin for a fairing conpound. now I have the it all sanded down and smoth beside a paint job you never tell there was a hole.<br />the boat never has had a gelcoat(just paint from what I can tell)<br />so my question is do I need to seal the patch with anything? maybe just a coat of plain resin??<br />or is it waterproof as is with no sealent extra coat? (I would think so)<br /><br />Also besides a sealer I am ready to paint the hole bottom of the hull. I have no idea what kind paint is on there and I want the new paint compatable witht the old.<br />by the way boat will stay on a trailer.<br />so any recomendations on paint??<br />thanks for the help<br />-Ricard

 

[fishingdan]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

The microballoon mix does need to be sealed after it cures. The microballons are literally little balls that break open as you sand them. Water won't get through it, but you will see a noticeable difference in the paint finish if you don't seal it. <br /><br />You could put a thin coat of activatived epoxy resin on it. I prefer to use a good paint system that includes an epoxy based primer (also sometimes referred to as barrier coat primer) as its foundation. Most of the paint manufacturers offer this. <br /><br />I have used 2 paint systems with good results. I prefer the 2-part paints. Both have given me excellent results with a roller and brush (roll and tip).<br /><br />SystemThree (www.systemthree.com) has a water borne paint system that is very good that is very easy to use and extremely durable. Great for applying in an enclosed area since there is no heavy solvent vapor/odor during application. The downside is that finish is semi-gloss unless you apply their clear paint as the last step. <br /><br />Interlux (www.yachtpaint.com) has a few excellent systems with one-part or two-part paint. These are solvent based paints that require more ventilation when applying. The resulting finish, by default, is high-gloss unless you add a flattening agent. If your intention is to apply a bottom paint, they also have excellent bottom paints. <br /><br />Both websites have a ton of free information for you to learn everything you wanted to know about marine paint.

 

[lagoon bandit]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

thanks you for the info fishindan and I will check into the sites<br />so things I frogot to add is................<br />1. this is a shoestring projest so I want cheap as possible<br />2. I will be painting the boat on the trailer so I would like it to be 1 coat if possible<br />3.this is a old boat that will never look perfect so stuff like clear coat are NOT nessary it can be dull<br />4.scratch resistant is nessary I pole over shallow shell/grass flats in florida is which I do run a ground from time to time

 

[fishingdan]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

How much of the hull exterior/bottom do you need to paint?

 

[solidwaste]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

Hey lagoon I just got done painting my boat with bottom paint..I bought some interlux stuff it is expensive no way around it..I got 1 gallon on sale for $90..At least thats expensive for me..Anyway I like it I rooled it one with a roller with one coat did good for me..And I dont know what kinda boat you have but I have a trihull when I was painting it I jacked up one side at a time painted each side let it dry and it was done..I have since learn a very easy safe way to get boat off trailor and back without boat beeing on the ground.

 

[brownies]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

Tell us about that way you get the boat on and off the trailer please....please, please.....

 

[lagoon bandit]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

The boat is a 1972 16' fiberglass yates semi-v haul(v to flat). It is a old fishing boat with a 6-8" draft.<br />Fishindan..I was planning on painting the whole bottom. Then later on the sides(gunnel I think?)and then a little on the inside I am completely redoing the inside to my likins. 90% of the inside will be painted with something none skid.<br />I just planed on buying the right and good paint for the bottom and use the same paint for the gunnel. <br /><br />soliswaste...$90-100 is expensive Caint I just slap some latex on??? just kidding. You had the same idea I did about painting<br />I would like to know this way of getting a baot off of a trailer you must share..<br /><br />What about primer? I have smothed everthing out and cleaned it. I would think with an epoxy paint I would not need primer.<br /><br />Any idea on how much I should buy? A gallon?<br /><br />Has anyone had any experance with "easypox" paint the local marine shop has a gallon for $99

 

[solidwaste]

Re: hull repair finish/paint questions

Ok here I go on the trailor deal..<br />Supplies<br /><br />11 cinder blocks from lowes 1.57e<br /> 3 landscape timbers from lowes 2.59e<br /> 3 8 inch nails had em layed around ???<br /> 1 car jack<br /> 2 car jack stands<br />couple of pieces of 2/12 or whatever<br /><br />1st put 2 or 3 cinder blocks on each side of the front of the boat about 3/4 of the length..<br /><br />2nd take lanscape timbers put all three togather<br />and nail them with nails 2 on ends 1 in mid..<br /><br />3 pick up front of the boat by the tongue of the trailor.<br /><br />4 slide landscape timbre inbetween keel of boat and trailor and each side on the blocks..<br /><br />5 let go of tongue and let some slack in youre winch<br /><br />6 put 1 cinder block on each corner of the stern of the boat and one in the mid<br /><br />7 put car jack on mid block scrap wood on the jack and slowely!!!! start to jack up boat..<br /><br />8 when youre boat is just above youre rollers and bunks I mean just not too high just off. put car stands on each corner block with wood on top to protect hull..<br /><br />9 release jack slowley and remove car jack put another block in the mid then put wood pieces to fill left over gap with mine the last piece of wood I tapped in with a hammer just to make it tight..<br /><br />10 make sure front of boat is stable mine was easy cause it was a trihull not a v but a v if you took a rope on each side from a cleat and tied it down to a stake of tree whatever . That would be fine youre stability come from the back 3 points anyway.. <br /><br />11 Go to bow take winch off completly lift up on the tongue and if you keep front end up youll slide out tralor with no problem..Now my tralor had some rollers on the side to help loading in windy conditions cant remeber what there called anyway I had to take them off to get tralor out but that was one of my jobs to do anyway..<br /><br />To put it back under do the reverse now because I live in central Fl the weigh of the boat made the blocks settle in the sand about an inch so I just dug out a little when putting tralor back under..<br /><br />Now I know this may not sound right but my idea when I did this was to have the front of the boat higher than the back then all the weigh really is on the car stands and with the mid block and wood it coundnt slide anyware.. Now no getting in boat or getting under neath it use roller with handle I wouldnt trust my life to it. But I couldnt believe how stable it was I tried to push it And couldnt move it.. Let me know what you think