Gluing plastics

[gm280]

Not sure this is the proper forum for this question, but here goes.

I have a cooler that I was trying to convert to a live well. And for the most part it was working out very well. However, dummy me did something stupid and tried to drill a hole through it from the outside instead of the inside like I drilled every other hole through. The way it is constructed, if you drill from the inside with a forstner bit, it cuts a nice clean hole without any issues, However, if you drill the same size hole from the outside in, when it gets to the inside plastic, it tears the plastic and breaks it off. Well guess what? Yea, I now have a serious piece of inside plastic missing.

Here is a picture of the issue. It is where I was installing an additional overflow drain.

Another shot.

As you can see, when you drill it correctly it is clean burr free.

And you can see other holes were nice as well. Those are LED lights to see what is in the live well in the dark.

I thought of all sorts of ways to solve this including buying a new one and starting over. I also thought about heating the area up with a heat gun and installing another piece of plastic (or aluminum) to seal it over. Any ideas out there or would 3M 5200 glue work to seal off the missing plastic? :noidea: :help:

 

[fhhuber]

Did you save the discs of plastic you cut out?

You'll need to experiment a bit with glues to see which one will work best with that plastic. without knowing which plastic was used to make that cooler its impossible to predict what will work.

You may be lucky and PVC glue will bond it. PVC glue works by partly dissolving the PVC and its essentially welded forever.

I'd start there, and start going through different plastic glues one at a time.

You will want to apply sealant for each penetration/fitting to protect the insulation from soaking.

 

[StingrayMike]

That's alot of damage. I would buy another one and start over.
if I fixed it, everytime i opened it and saw the repair, it would bother the heck out of me

 

[fhhuber]

If starting over...

I'd drop that overflow a half to one inch to have the fitting not hang out at the top.

I have a cooler I plan to drill in a similar manner for turning it into a minnow live well.

 

[gm280]

fhhuber, unfortunately I didn't save any of the cut outs. And that was mainly because I was so perturbed seeing what I did as the bit broke through. I basically cleaned up and left the shop that day. I have a lot of different types solvents I could try. But it really makes me sick to know I ruined a perfectly good cooler that I setup just to use in the boat. IDK.

Mike, I think you hit on the exact thing I should do. And that is buy a new one and start over. Like you, I know how I am and I as well would be sick every time I opened the live well and see it. So unless I can repair it to look great (probably not going to happen), it could be on it's way to the trash can. Why I chose to drill from the outside knowing better, is still a wonder to me. Usually I take great care to do things just so so. But for some really stupid reason, I didn't follow my own idea that day and I regret it. :facepalm:.

Thanks for the replies guys. I may just scrap it and either buy a new one, OR build one. Probably buy one... :noidea:

 

[Woodonglass]

Before buying a new one, you might look into a thin piece of mylar plastic and some PC - 11 from Ace Hardware. I find it a bit easier to use than 3M 5200, Thinner than JB Weld but just as strong. I really like it. But... Like most adehesives it Does have issues with the types of plastics that most of the coolers are made from. Might be worth a shot. I've heard that West System's G-Glex epoxy will glue these types of plastics with great success. Have no experience so can't say for sure.

 

[Scott Danforth]

3m has some plastic weld adhesive. hit up your local corbel plastics, they have it on the shelf. you could try that spray on rubber stuff advertised on TV. they even have white.

 

[StarTed]

How about aquarium cement? I've had fairly good luck with it for some uses.

 

[gm280]

I honestly appreciate all the replies and suggestions. It really has bugged me for some time. I am still rethinking my opinions. I even thought about removing the inter plastic lining and layering fiberglass and resin to built it over. IDK I even thought about making a new setup with plywood and fiberglass. Probably the best option is to just buy a new one and take care while drilling this time.

 

[gm280]

If starting over...

I'd drop that overflow a half to one inch to have the fitting not hang out at the top.

I have a cooler I plan to drill in a similar manner for turning it into a minnow live well.

If you do make a decision to drill yours out, make sure you drill from the inside for at least starting the hole and use a forstner bit or hole saw type bit. Don't try to use a standard drill bit because it will certainly break the plastic. You need something to cut the outside of the hole first then drill thought the foam. You could even mark the hole with a sharpie and use an Exacto knife to cut through the plastic and then the foam. And with mine cooler the out side is a different type plastic that doesn't try to grab or break. So maybe even layer a few pieces of duct tape on first to drill through. I don't have the perfect answer. :noidea:

I am still up in the air about my opinions. It has to look good as well as function good. My only two criteria. Yea, even for my little tri-hull of a boat. Next boat will be something of more interest. :facepalm:

 

[DeepBlue2010]

One thing I would do is to cut out the portion I highlighted in red in y our picture. After it is out, form a clear around the perimeters using relatively thin cuts of wood; something like the paint stirring sticks you get from Home Depot (of course you can make your own out of whatever wood you like, treated with whatever moisture protection products you like) you get the idea.

Clamp these to the inner side of the inner skin of the cooler so they will be between the two sides of the cooler. Use 5200 and clamp it down with any type of clamps you have handy. I used strong paper clips like these in a similar job, so many of them.



Let the 5200 cures and take the cutout to Tap Plastic and get yourself a piece of plastic similar in color and properties (strength, thickness, etc). Cut it or have it cut to size.

Again, using 5200, attach to the cleat and use you imagination to improvise a way to clamp it down. I would turn the cooler to sit on the repair side and put something heavy on the repair so the gravity is working for me but you might have a better idea.

After this thing is done, it is not going anywhere. It could be a little on the ugly side depends on your liking but I don't think the fish would mind.

 

[Watermann]

I would cut a piece of aluminum, drill the hole, back butter with 5200 and tighten down the fitting to clamp it in place. Done, won't leak and will look good even if not painted.

 

[mxcobra]

shoe goo will glue it.

 

[gm280]

So many good suggestions. Thanks Deep Blue and Waterman. I do appreciate any and all ideas and suggestions. Like I previously said, I am really on the fence with this one. One day I want to scrap the entire cooler and buy new. The next day I want to try and salvage it and see how it looks afterwards. I know I have to make a decision soon because I have to install this pretty soon.

So thanks to everyone for their ideas. I may do some tests and see what happens. I already know that lacquer thinner doesn't even touch the plastic to dissolve it and that was interest to know. So that also rules out Mineral Spirits and probably Acetone solvents as well.

I do know a company called Weld On makes lots of specially glues that will glue even Plexiglas/Lexan like it was one piece. I've used their glues before and it is really some great stuff. The real issue is, trying to make it look really good after any type repair is an issue with me and the cost of buying other glues verses just buying another cooler come into play.

You can see how I change ideas even in my own post. :noidea:

 

[Bayou Dave]

You might be able to contact the cooler manufacturer and ask them what type of glue to use.

 

[gm280]

You might be able to contact the cooler manufacturer and ask them what type of glue to use.

That's a good idea. If they just labeled the type plastic then I could search for the proper glue. And who knows, maybe the did label it and I'm too stupid to know how to decode their system. The plastic really seems like the type used in the tops of coffee containers and coffee creamer containers. But who knows if those are really the same. :noidea:

 

[harleyman1975]

OK here I go with a suggestion. I own a bodyshop and deal with plastic repairs a lot. There is an epoxy called "problem plastic repair" It will fix pretty much anything made of plastic. It is a twin cartridge (A&B) with a mixing tube. It is expensive I believe it is made by a company called SEM. I get it from my auto body supply store. Lightly scuff surrounding area with 180 grit paper. Apply material and then cover with masking tape until cured (20-30 min) Peel off tape and then get on with your life.

 

[gm280]

OK here I go with a suggestion. I own a bodyshop and deal with plastic repairs a lot. There is an epoxy called "problem plastic repair" It will fix pretty much anything made of plastic. It is a twin cartridge (A&B) with a mixing tube. It is expensive I believe it is made by a company called SEM. I get it from my auto body supply store. Lightly scuff surrounding area with 180 grit paper. Apply material and then cover with masking tape until cured (20-30 min) Peel off tape and then get on with your life.

Thanks harleyman, I 'll have to check that out. Sounds similar to Weld On products. They too make specially glues for plastics.

FAI I did contact Igloo company to ask what type plastic they used on the inside of this cooler. But I haven't heard anything back yet.

 

[ondarvr]

G Flex works well, you need to flame treat the surface to get the best bond, it's not difficult to do.

 

[Bayou Dave]

Found this. Maybe it will help. http://www.igloocoolers.com/FAQs#q4
What materials is my cooler made of?
Hard-side coolers: The exterior body of most Igloo hard-side coolers is made of high-density polyethylene, while the interior liner is made of FDA-grade polypropylene. The insulation is made of Ultratherm? - a proprietary blend of polyurethane foam.
Soft-side coolers: Igloo soft-side cooler exteriors vary by style and model year and are made from a variety of durable materials and blends, including polypropylene, polyethylene, nylon, polyester, thermoplastic olefin (TPO) and PEVA (polyethylene + ethylene vinyl acetate). Older models may contain polyvinylchloride (PVC). The inside liners of Igloo soft coolers are made of FDA food contact safe PEVA, although older versions may have inner liners constructed from PVC. The insulation in Igloo soft coolers consists of polyurethane, polyethylene or a blend of the two.

Igloo Earth Series? coolers: The bodies of these coolers are made of reclaimed plastic retrieved from our industrial manufacturing processes. The interior liners are still made with FDA-quality polypropylene and they are insulated with proprietary Ultratherm? polyurethane foam.