Glastex Seastar - Rebuild

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Yesterday I bought what I knew was going to be a project boat for 500 bucks. Included the trailer a Running Johnson 9.5 Outboard an Evenrude Outbard parts motor and some small extras like life vests etc. The main purpose for the boat is to be just a fishing boat. Only in the water when being used and store in the garage when not in use. (I am using the Rustoleum Topside all over, for this reason.)
The person I bought it from said they re-did the floors and sealed them and put new carpet on. The carpet had what looks like liquid nails on it... (I seen it at the time and new I would be replacing the carpet at any rate.) When I pulled up the carpet, I seen that the "New floor" had gaps between the sheets and specifically where it was to meet the bow section. It just laid on the stringers, attached with liquid nails. I could easily pull the pieces up and remove them. When I did, I felt the stringers and they were HOLLOW! I was prepared but had hopes they would be OK. I knew this was going to be evident due to the age of the boat, but for some reason (I don't know why) I was optimistic that I wouldn't have to. But I remembered reading about hollow core stringers!
I started searching the web about the possibility of hollow core stringers. And low and behold I came across a post From August of 2015 Created by Naw9119. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-t-573-hawk-br
In which Woodonglass confirmed that these boats did indeed have Hollow Stringers!

Can you guys help me out on a few things!?

1. Can anyone confirm that these are absolutely hollow core on these boats? I think the wood pieces I am finding in the stringers are from the floor being removed...but I would like to confirm!
2. I would say they are 90% solid but there are small sections here and there that are cracked or "soft".
Can I either;
A) Just fiberglass over those spots, If so what type of fiberglass cloth should I use; or
B) Totally cut out those sections and fiberglass bridging them back together from strong point to strong point. (I would figure leaving those pieces in and reinforcing would be better because they are whats originally tabbed in? But I'm not a pro.) I have also found maybe a total of 7 (that are only an inch or so) where it looks like the fiberglass has crinkled creating a "Hump" on the floor. Should I cut/Grind those out and fix them as well or once again fiberglass over them to reseal and reinforce them or fill them with fiberglass putty?
There are some very slight waves in random locations of the stringers. (What should I do about this, if anything)
3. Now that I have the floor out, If I lay under the boat I can see spots where I can see light. Should I just fiberglass from the inside in those general areas? For example if the "spot" is about a 3" maybe do a 1" square fiberglass over it? What type of fiberglass should I use and how many layers?
4. I am going to have to lift the cap off and replace the transom with a boat this old and one that looks like it has had some water issues already. Any random advice on that process, building the transom or installing it?
5. Lastly, when I do my floor do I tab it in to the side of the boat including the front and fiberglass the whole floor level? The reason I ask this is because when I lifted the floor the front section of flooring up in the bow has space along the sides. I am not sure if this was just more bad work or was intentional, to allow water up front to get down in the bilge and flow to the back? I feel like that would be a really bad idea, but I'm newer to boats so I'm not sure and I figured I would rather be honest and just ask and find out the answer than be too prideful and not ask.

I have good pictures, but I keep getting a message that my pictures are "Invalid File Data?? Can anyone assist me with that as well? I have used forums for years so I am very familiar with them but not sure what is going on with the picture posting sometimes it happens when you are new....
 
Last edited:

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
No Title

Here are some of the before pictures.
 

Attachments

  • photo259473.jpg
    photo259473.jpg
    104.1 KB · Views: 2
  • photo259474.jpg
    photo259474.jpg
    105.2 KB · Views: 2
  • photo259478.jpg
    photo259478.jpg
    101.9 KB · Views: 1

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
No Title

Here is after I removed the floor. I didn't even bother to take pictures of the floor....
 

Attachments

  • photo259475.jpg
    photo259475.jpg
    15.2 KB · Views: 3
  • photo259476.jpg
    photo259476.jpg
    15.6 KB · Views: 2
  • photo259477.jpg
    photo259477.jpg
    15.4 KB · Views: 3
  • photo259479.jpg
    photo259479.jpg
    19.5 KB · Views: 4
  • photo259480.jpg
    photo259480.jpg
    19.8 KB · Views: 3

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
No Title

The Stringers
 

Attachments

  • photo259479.jpg
    photo259479.jpg
    19.5 KB · Views: 0
  • photo259480.jpg
    photo259480.jpg
    19.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo259481.jpg
    photo259481.jpg
    20.7 KB · Views: 0

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
No Title

Some shots of some "Thin" spots on the boat where the light is shining through.
 

Attachments

  • photo259482.jpg
    photo259482.jpg
    8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo259483.jpg
    photo259483.jpg
    8.4 KB · Views: 0

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,927
Welcome to iBoats!! Best way to KNOW if the stringers are hollow and ONLY glass is to drill into them at the lowest point possible If you get no wood shavings then...Yeah they could be that way from the Factory. If so, any bad spots can be repaired as you intend. Use Polyester Laminating Resin (No Wax) and 2-3 layers of 1708 Biaxial Fabric. Make sure to grind down to fresh glass on the old stuff before applying the new. Fiberglass is a bit translucent so seeing light thru the hull is not necessarily a sign it needs to be thickened. You can if you want but unless it FEELS spongy or highly flexible I wouldn't worry about it. I'd HIGHLY recommend you do some extensive searching here on the forum for topics like Removing the Top Cap, Replacing the Transom, Deck etc. There's a LOT of great info to be had. The 2nd and 3rd link in my signature line below has a LOT of good info too. You don't have to pay the extra $$ for the Rustoleum Topside paint Plain ole' Rustoleum Oil Based Pro will do the job just fine. Check the 3rd link for all the details.

Good Luck with your project.
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Thank you!! I'm extremly excited to get her out on the water! I've actually already ordered the topside paint and recommended rustoleum (wood and fiberglass primer. I found that in the back around the rear seats, it seems to be soft and flexible when I walk on that section but I weigh almost 200 lbs and that pressure is condensed to the area of a size 10.5 shoe lol so I'm not sure if it's the area (the outside tri hull) or me just the specific weight in a small area.. The rest of the boat seems solid. And on topic with the light though the fiberglass. it's most where the adhesive from the carpet was pulled up...I feel like it took a layer off in certain spots as well.
 
Last edited:

MILKWEED

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2016
Messages
80
The fiberglass hull will flex some if its not supported underneath, if you are working on it while its on the trailer you might want to lay some plywood pieces across the stringers in a few places so you dont crack the hull and support the bottom with blocks or some cribbing. I don't know about the floor having gaps around the edge of the hull, its possible that is how its made, but it would seem to me that it should be tabbed to the sides of the hull to strengthen it. WOG posted the links you need for info, if your stringers are hollow core that will save a lot of time on the rebuild, but do some more research to make sure they aren't supposed to have wood or even foam inside, the PO has done work on the floor so don't just trust what you see is how its supposed to be. I'm going to follow along because this build reminds me of my project boat.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,462
The pics are really small ... May need to resize or something ...New deck should be tabbed in all the way around .. Follow WOG's info and you should't have any problems ... Make sure you use the proper PPE ... The fiberglass dust does really nasty stuff to your lungs ...:painkiller:
:welcome:
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Thanks guys! It was a risky purchase with the age. It clearly needed some work but I think she will be beautiful when she's back in shape! And I have been hanging on to every word and piece of advice everyone has given me. I have also researched the hell out of all of it! I will see what I can do about the pictures. I resized them in photoshop to 5" wide so I'm not sure why they are so small. I'll look into it tomorrow night. I got a few goodies by UPS today. But I need to figure out the picture thing before I upload! I haven't gotten much done in the way of the boat though...I will continue to post pictures and possibly some video during this whole process!
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Ive been trying to get the better pictures uploaded. I really would have liked to just edit my previous post with pictures instead of creating a new post but I couldn't figure it out so I just started a Photobucket account and here we go! I hope this gives everyone a better view of what I am working with! Please provide as much input and feedback as possible! I want to hear it all!

When I first saw her.

More of the first time.

Ol Johnson

Shes Home

Hollow Core Stringer?

Carpet Removal Starboard Side

Carpet Removal Port Side

Carpet Removal Starboard and Port Side

Forgot to Take a picture of just the floor. But here she is, stringers exposed!

Stringers again

And one more time.

Light through the Port Side Hull

Light in the Starboard Side of the Hull from Underneath.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
How does the transom look? Should save you a lot of time since it appears you don't have to install stringers. Looks like a solid boat. Pretty heavy for that motor tho. Noticed the reg # is PA. I'm in PA too.

Good luck with your boat.
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Baylinerchuck. Yep ! From Pa ! I live in a suburb about 30 min south of Pittsburgh. You?

What size engine do you think it should have? We just need some to float and move to get around some small lakes for fishin. But what do you recommend?
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
Oh and the transom "feels " ok actually...but haven't taken the cap off to check.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
I live in south central PA, Chambersburg area. I go to Pittsburgh a couple times a year for meetings, Moon Township area. Hey I'm not knocking your motor man ANYTHING that gets you on the water fishing as A-OK. If that motor meets your needs, awesome.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
Baylinerchuck. Yep ! From Pa ! I live in a suburb about 30 min south of Pittsburgh. You?

What size engine do you think it should have? We just need some to float and move to get around some small lakes for fishin. But what do you recommend?

Then you're an hour north on 79 of me.....

How long.is your SeaStar? Or what year? We can likely find the max HP rating for it.
 

Davis04

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2017
Messages
36
I live in south central PA, Chambersburg area. I go to Pittsburgh a couple times a year for meetings, Moon Township area. Hey I'm not knocking your motor man ANYTHING that gets you on the water fishing as A-OK. If that motor meets your needs, awesome.

I work in Robinson. And I didn't think you were knocking my motor just curious what you think would be better to make it more enjoyable. Thus is a pull start as well...so if I'm going to look for an electric start I could solve two issues at once potentially!
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Max HP is likely somewhere in the 85-90 range. 50+ would perform nicely. You'll be lucky to plane it at all with the current motor. It was likely somebody's rig for HP limited lakes.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,034
The dimensions of yours are pretty close to thise for a 1971 SeaStar Cheetah:
Seastarbb001.jpg


In 1968 Glastex started making the SeaStar line of boats.

So any pre 1982 75-95hp OB will be great. A 50 will probably get you there, just a bit slower.

Or any 75-80hp post 1982 OBs will work too.
 
Top