I know there is a sticky on this already!
Background:
I recently purchased a 1957 Johnson CD14 5.5 horsepower outboard engine. Ultimately, it will be a gift for my brother on his birthday. However, the outboard needs some work and it needed a stand first! I searched the internet and found some plans and designs including the plans posted by dh4winn79 (Thank you!). Being short on shop space (aren't we all?) I decided I wanted to expand on the plans I found. Realistically, I wanted the stand to perform the following:
1) Be a foldaway design for easy transport or storage while not in use.
2) Hold a tub in order to perform test runs.
3) Also hold the tank and parts all in one place while not in use.
4) Needed to be sturdy but cheap!
So, I set out to expand on the designs I found. I have a total of five dollars in my stand since I had some parts lying around. The only thing I had to go out and purchase was the carriage bolts, washers, and nuts which can be found at any local home improvement store. I think this can be built with all new parts for around $20.
I gathered my motor, some 2x4 boards left over from my previous room remodel, and a RubberMaid tub. It helps to have all these together prior to beginning the build so one can take measurements.
Step 1.
First I measured the width and length of my tub. I determined that a 1 foot wide base would suffice to hold the tub and still be stable. The stand base measures 1'x3'. It's a simple construction and I used stainless steel screws left over from a previous deck project. The cross brace was place to support the tub whether it be set forward or back (keep reading).
Step 2.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the skeg to the mounting bracket of the outboard. This distance will determine the height of the upright portion of the stand. You want the stand to hold the motor skeg higher than the top of the stand base yet the water inlets should not go above the top of the tub when placed on the base. I cut the base legs at a 15^ angle and curved the ends. The curved ends allow the upright legs to swivel without having to lift the base. I used the base as a guide to determine the width of the upright portion of the stand. (See step 3). The 2x12 mount was garbage picked from Home Depot's garbage can. The diamond plate was left over from my previous trailer build...I thought it looked nice. I also burned my brothers name into it.(Name changed to protect my surprise gift!)
Step 3.
Lay the upright portion over the base portion. Drill holes and insert bolts/washers/nuts to hold them together.
Step 4.
When upright, your outboard stand will look like so... Now measure for the upright supports and mark the correct angle as to where you want the boards to be cut.
Step 5.
Attach the support legs with bolts. I used 5/16 x 3.5 carriage bolts that can be picked up at any hardware store. When you are finished with the stand it will look like this when folded flat!
Background:
I recently purchased a 1957 Johnson CD14 5.5 horsepower outboard engine. Ultimately, it will be a gift for my brother on his birthday. However, the outboard needs some work and it needed a stand first! I searched the internet and found some plans and designs including the plans posted by dh4winn79 (Thank you!). Being short on shop space (aren't we all?) I decided I wanted to expand on the plans I found. Realistically, I wanted the stand to perform the following:
1) Be a foldaway design for easy transport or storage while not in use.
2) Hold a tub in order to perform test runs.
3) Also hold the tank and parts all in one place while not in use.
4) Needed to be sturdy but cheap!
So, I set out to expand on the designs I found. I have a total of five dollars in my stand since I had some parts lying around. The only thing I had to go out and purchase was the carriage bolts, washers, and nuts which can be found at any local home improvement store. I think this can be built with all new parts for around $20.
I gathered my motor, some 2x4 boards left over from my previous room remodel, and a RubberMaid tub. It helps to have all these together prior to beginning the build so one can take measurements.
Step 1.
First I measured the width and length of my tub. I determined that a 1 foot wide base would suffice to hold the tub and still be stable. The stand base measures 1'x3'. It's a simple construction and I used stainless steel screws left over from a previous deck project. The cross brace was place to support the tub whether it be set forward or back (keep reading).
Step 2.
Measure the distance from the bottom of the skeg to the mounting bracket of the outboard. This distance will determine the height of the upright portion of the stand. You want the stand to hold the motor skeg higher than the top of the stand base yet the water inlets should not go above the top of the tub when placed on the base. I cut the base legs at a 15^ angle and curved the ends. The curved ends allow the upright legs to swivel without having to lift the base. I used the base as a guide to determine the width of the upright portion of the stand. (See step 3). The 2x12 mount was garbage picked from Home Depot's garbage can. The diamond plate was left over from my previous trailer build...I thought it looked nice. I also burned my brothers name into it.(Name changed to protect my surprise gift!)
Step 3.
Lay the upright portion over the base portion. Drill holes and insert bolts/washers/nuts to hold them together.
Step 4.
When upright, your outboard stand will look like so... Now measure for the upright supports and mark the correct angle as to where you want the boards to be cut.
Step 5.
Attach the support legs with bolts. I used 5/16 x 3.5 carriage bolts that can be picked up at any hardware store. When you are finished with the stand it will look like this when folded flat!
