Extra cost(s) breakdown of storing boat in a saltwater marina?

[jimmwaller]

Hi all,
I have what may be a pretty dumb question but I couldn't find a comprehensive answer anywhere so apologies if this has already been asked a million times.

I currently keep my boat on a trailer but I would like to eventually store it in a harbor (in the ocean, so... saltwater). Right now, my costs are maintenance/equipment/etc... things like repairs, new anodes, gas/oil/etc. I don't need to winterize and I don't wrap it over winter or anything.

I'm thinking about getting a slip in the local marina. But, I've heard horror stories about the cost of owning a boat, and I know there are additional costs associated with keeping a boat in the marina. My boat is pretty expensive now, so I guess I can't tell... are the big costs associated with boat ownership the things like repairs and parts and gas and routine maintenance, all of which I'm paying now? And maybe moving it to a saltwater marina might require things like bottom painting and barnacle removal or whatever, but maybe those costs are negligible. So I guess my question is: can anyone help me understand the additional costs that come along with marina storage?

I guess bottom painting becomes more important, maybe I need to scrape barnacles off sometimes... how much do these things costs, and are they DIY-able? Will I need to be buying way more anodes? Are there other hidden costs?

Just trying to make sure I'm accurately thinking about the costs of moving from a trailer to a marina. I haven't seen a good, comprehensive breakdown of the additional costs above and beyond the costs of owning a boat on a trailer, so anything info would be really helpful.

Thanks so much

 

[Lou C]

Keeping a boat in a marina is the most convenient but probably the most expensive. I would not DYI bottom paint it is a nasty job with hazardous materials. Some require you to use their people for everything driving up the cost. The costs all depend on location; length of boat, length of season, etc. Here it is frightfully expensive. I keep mine on a mooring behind my neighborhood & do all the maintenance myself. The only thing I have the local boat yard do is bottom paint & I rent a mooring from them for the season (~~$1,100 for both). Ask around where you are. Boating is expensive & keeping it in a marina is the most expensive way to do it.

 

[jimmwaller]

Keeping a boat in a marina is the most convenient but probably the most expensive. I would not DYI bottom paint it is a nasty job with hazardous materials. Some require you to use their people for everything driving up the cost. The costs all depend on location; length of boat, length of season, etc. Here it is frightfully expensive. I keep mine on a mooring behind my neighborhood & do all the maintenance myself. The only thing I have the local boat yard do is bottom paint & I rent a mooring from them for the season (~~$1,100 for both). Ask around where you are. Boating is expensive & keeping it in a marina is the most expensive way to do it.

Thanks. I think something that would help is even getting a list of what the things are that cost money. Like, okay, bottom painting. I guess I knew that one, but my worry is, I don't know what I don't know. So it would be really easy for someone to think "oh, I just plop my boat in the harbor and it's all good" without realizing that you need special bottom paint. So a big part of my question is... what other costs there that I might not know about? I totally get that costs vary depending on where you are, but I don't even know what all the "things" are that cost money as far as storing a boat in a marina thanks!

 

[racerone]

Insurance.---Fuel cost more.------Risk of storm damage.

 

[Lou C]

Storage costs if you have an off season.
About 15 years ago we had a friend who kept his boat (23’) at a really nice local marina. He must have been thinking this is too expensive so he asked my how much I spent to keep the boat on the mooring. I said “do you really want to know?”… he said yes because I’m paying them 10k a year! Then I laughed and said “well you really don’t want to know!” At the time the bottom paint & mooring cost me $800 a season. I was doing all the maintenance & repairs & stored the boat at home. I think they got out of boating a few years later because their kids weren’t that into it as they got older. Despite costs all the marinas here are full. So people do think it’s worth it. I like the mooring & home storage. Mooring is inexpensive & boat is safer in storms because the boat is fee to move & the bow is always to the wind & waves, no chafing against a dock.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Salt water or fresh water?

Aluminum, wood, or fiberglass?

Barrier coat and bottom paint are something you can DIY. Materials about $1k

Springlines, mooring whips, bumpers, extra bilge pump

 

[Horigan]

I have a trailer boat and a boat in a slip.
In addition to above, expect to replace the anodes twice as often, if not more, when stored in salt water. I replace our outdrive anodes every four months.
If the boat has an IO, I suggest installing a Neutra Salt flushing system to slow the internal corrosion of your raw water system. This is really necessary if you don't have a closed cooling system.
You'll need to haul the boat out at least once a year to remove the growth (light pressure wash), even with bottom paint, or hire a diver to run a pad across the bottom to remove the growth from the paint.
You'll need to bottom paint every two years. If you have outdrives, I would paint those every year (rattle can outdrive paint), plus the props.

 

[jimmwaller]

Insurance.---Fuel cost more.------Risk of storm damage.

Thanks. Is the insurance significantly more expensive?

Storage costs if you have an off season.
About 15 years ago we had a friend who kept his boat (23’) at a really nice local marina. He must have been thinking this is too expensive so he asked my how much I spent to keep the boat on the mooring. I said “do you really want to know?”… he said yes because I’m paying them 10k a year! Then I laughed and said “well you really don’t want to know!” At the time the bottom paint & mooring cost me $800 a season. I was doing all the maintenance & repairs & stored the boat at home. I think they got out of boating a few years later because their kids weren’t that into it as they got older. Despite costs all the marinas here are full. So people do think it’s worth it. I like the mooring & home storage. Mooring is inexpensive & boat is safer in storms because the boat is fee to move & the bow is always to the wind & waves, no chafing against a dock.

Ok, dumb question.... is a mooring different from storing in the marina? What's the big difference, just that you need to boat out to the boat? and I guess it's less protected?

Salt water or fresh water?

Aluminum, wood, or fiberglass?

Barrier coat and bottom paint are something you can DIY. Materials about $1k

Springlines, mooring whips, bumpers, extra bilge pump

Aluminum in Salt Water, with an I/O

I have a trailer boat and a boat in a slip.
In addition to above, expect to replace the anodes twice as often, if not more, when stored in salt water. I replace our outdrive anodes every four months.
If the boat has an IO, I suggest installing a Neutra Salt flushing system to slow the internal corrosion of your raw water system. This is really necessary if you don't have a closed cooling system.
You'll need to haul the boat out at least once a year to remove the growth (light pressure wash), even with bottom paint, or hire a diver to run a pad across the bottom to remove the growth from the paint.
You'll need to bottom paint every two years. If you have outdrives, I would paint those every year (rattle can outdrive paint), plus the props.

Thanks! I'll check out a Neutra Salt flush system, I guess I should be using that anyways. Is doing the diving something I can do myself, if I'm willing to get in the water at the marina? I have freedive gear, I'd be happy to DIY this unless it requires special equipment, etc. Also: you're saying I can just spray paint the outdrive once a year? Any special type of paint?

And just to confirm, how bad is it to store an aluminum I/O in saltwater? I would triple up on the anodes and use the neutra salt system... anything else?

Thanks all!

 

[tpenfield]

I keep my boat on a mooring in salt water, just like @Lou C . . .

Extra costs . . .
Bottom paint $400 (DIY)
Outdrive anti-fouling - $75 (DIY)
Can of fogging oil $15 (if it doesn't move and it should)
Duct Tape $7 (if it moves and it shouldn't)
Anodes $75 . . . maybe double that if you keep the boat in the water for more than 4 months/year.
Descaler solution - $75 (engine flush once a year)
Bird/Seagull deterrents $100

If you have an I/O, and it is not full Closed Cooling, add about $2,000/yr to put in the cookie jar to buy a new engine every 15 years. Manifolds replaced every 5-7 years.

So, in my experience (since I have closed cooling), it adds about $600 ish (plus your slip fees) . . . to the already high cost of boat ownership.

Not sure if insurance is going to be any different. (the Admiral does insurance, so I can ask)

 

[Lou C]

The alu outdrive paints have gone way up, a qt can of Trilux used to be $80 now it’s $130, spray can of Trilux used to be $35 now it’s $58.
Anodes I paid about $65 aftermarket
Engines? If not closed cooled as Ted said you get about 15 years of trouble free use. I’m still running my original 1988 short block used in salt at least 20 years. The cyl heads I replaced due to overheat damage 6 years ago but if that hadn’t happened I suspect I’d have to replace them any way due to the fact that they may not have sealed against the head gaskets. That’s what the guys in the machine shop felt where I had em checked out.
Very important:
You must pull the drive each season and check the driveshaft bellows for water intrusion & if found replace the bellow, gimble bearing & ujoints. I bought an outdrive jack ($175-200) over ten years ago it paid for itself after 1 season! My bellows (Cobra/Volvo SX style) last about 10 years in my use. When small cracks appear you replace.
Also go over all hoses & connections each season make sure there are no leaks of salt water which will rust stuff in a hurry. Once a year if you have access get down in the engine bay & spray the oil pan & timing chain cover with Corrosion X. I’ve done this & still using the original tin pan & cover. Monitor water level in the bilge and make sure your auto bilge switch works.
This is what I’ve done over 20 years; if not for the overheat I’d have had no major mechanical repairs. And when I repower this boat for sure it will get closed cooling

 

[dingbat]

Not a concern if you’re not worried about resale, but you’re going to take a significant depreciation hit by adding bottom paint to a trailer boat. Most trailer boaters want nothing to do with bottom paint