Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

[Wakesilver]

Ahoy!

Could someone educate me where the best places to attach lifting points to a 140 Mercruiser (GM I4) engine? There is one eye tab bolted close to the valve cover on top in the front, but something tells me that without two or three places of attachment that the engine will rotate and not come out. I am new to this and am pulling it out "shade tree style" to do a coupler replacement. The bottom is formed fairly close to the engine and the flywheel is underneath the top rim of the boat, but the cowling allows for good access to the sides.

Thanks in advance!

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

there should be another lift bracket on back of engine , it back there on bell housing bolt,,i used engine hoist from side . front mount back mount, harness plug,fuel lines ,exhaust elbow hose come off and take the hole mount off in front. engine harness stays on. need to hook it close to valve cover so chain wont rub boat. i just did this and take out took a hour ,coupler change 1.5 as bolts are hard to get at on coupler socket wouldn't work ,put back in 1hr ,rehooking everything up and srewing up by running water without motor running 3 days!!!!

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

Thanks BSO!
My neighor came over and we go it out, more socializing than work by the time the other neighbors stopped by but the original second set of hands did made it possible. We found the second lift point and used a tree with a tow strap around two big limbs and a cable hoist. The block is blocked-up and supported on the deck of the boat and the burnt-out coupler is off. I hope mine goes on as well as yours did. If anyone wants I can post pictures.
-WS

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

dont forget alignment when done amd spline grease i bought the merc spline grease but marine grease might be oka.y spline grease only good for splines.the times i gave you were actual work time , start to finish took me alot loger due to breaks and bsn. install rear mounts and tighten them the adjust front up and down so tool slips in easy and grease groove are even on tool. it actually works really good using grease marks i was suprised,manual says nothing about grease as a gauge but iread don s. mention it all the time ,he says it i critical or you will be doing it again.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

replace the rear mounts now ,there the leading cause of coupler failure

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

the center metal spacer in rubber breaks away from rubber so it wount be held by anything up and own. My merc mech looked at mine and said mine wre solid and good so i diidnt but i will after this year, i am not sure but the front is the same as back as i can never find one online but will get it from dealer anyways.
The spacer in rubber is the part you tighten the spring washer against. corrrect me if i am wrong.

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

BSO, BT Doctur-

Thanks for the reminders/suggestions. I appreciate the collective knowledge and willingness to help on this forum.

I have an alignment tool but am still looking for the spline grease, u-joint grease, and any other greases I may need.

The rubber was burnt out of both ends of the coupler and the the sleeve splines were wore out. Is this a symptom of a sagged rear mounts?

The font lags were relatively loose in the stringer and coated with white silicone and one of the spacers was not around the bolt in the rear, and they were not tight enough to engage the self-locking portion of the nuts. Do the rear mounts press or slip fit into the flywheel cover?

The casting date on the rubber in the coupler looks like it says 1976, so it did pretty well considering. I also imagine that the splines were not maintained recently since the grease was grey and crusty (aluminum from the coupler?) and there was some blue RTV around one of the o-rings.

The outdrive did slide off relatively easily. But I am concerned about the condition of the front yoke, it has some pits and the 2 o-rings are worn. The splines look OK anyhow.

Pictures for the curious:

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

I made a tool to install new bushing by drawing them vs hammering them in.
Anytine a motor comes out for a coupler new ones get installed for insurance. What happens if you go thru pulling and replacing a motor and you can`t get the alignment on the money. You do it all over again to replace the bushings, you pull the motor again to replace the coupler.The old center cores I burn out, use a socket to drive out the remaining sleeve and spacer ring, clean the holes up , install new bushings. 1 hour at the most.
Input shaft looks ok, the new O rings come in the drive mounting kit.

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

he is right if you dont plan on taking motor out anytime soon.is your flapper still there? about 25.00 at dealer,take rivets out and then put in screws,i wll do that this fall.you could use regular marine grease merc manual just says grease.my front mounts were loose too. I have aluminum boat so my front is a 2x6 from aluminum stringers.My out drive fell off by itself but as coupler melted didnt mean it was lined in. I am making outdrive stand on a moving doll to put my outdrive on tomorrow so i can store it make it easier to put on.

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

BSO-
Yep, something seems not to be there. I suppose I should look at the bottom of the elbow for chunks of the old one.

BD-
Thanks for explaining how to get those out, push out from the top towards the bottom, right? Are the mounts the same left and right? I am coming up with part# 32832 crossing to 33149 crossing to 99279A1 superceded by 865329A02. Is that all to say they never have changed?

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

I use the Sierra ones 18-2193(old style using the double wound lockwasher)
replaces 99297A1. The old type are smooth ends, the new style has a seratted end.

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

Thanks, BD!

Mounts are on order, hoping to get it back together for the weekend.

P/N's so far:
-coupler Sierra 18-2171 ( Merc 76850A2)
-gaskets 18-2614 (Merc 27-64818A).
-mounts Mercury 8565329A02 (2 in the package w/ all of the extra washers)

teflon-fortified grease was recommended

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times..."
Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities

All the new parts are in.

I used a 15/16 impact socket to get the mounts in and out. Hammered out, used a long 1/2 bolt and nut and another socket to "turn" them back in, thanks Bt Doctur!

Flapper went in by bending out the old middle and setting one end of the new one in the hole and carefully tapping the middle over until it slid into the hole, all while the flaps were pushed down into the lower J-pipe. It appears to be flap-happy.

Coupler went on easily. Nothing to report. But just how does one hook up a torque wrench without using sockets?

Fixed the trim sender wires, bought next size bigger lags for the front mount. Any reason not to run 1/2" lags through the 1/2" holes in the mount? Previous install was crooked and stripped 3/8" lags with white caulking. We got the rear mounts pinned and the exhaust coupler on.

We did not get it aligned yet, looks like previous alignment sagged or was short about 3/16" in the front. It looked like it was way off at first but the alignment bar would not even go in until I had it back close to "stock", the 1" piece of plywood on top of the stringer and glass matting under the front mount.

If the alignment bar can be moved up and down (has a little vertical "play" 1/8-1/4") through the gimble bearings, is this OK?

Hoping to try aligning again tomorrow, missing being on the water...

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

Still no success with alignment. The bar will slide all the way in but is tight for the last inch or so. I can make it worse but not better. Could the newer rear mounts be throwing things off?

 

[Wakesilver]

Re: Engine removal 140 Mercruiser

(help!)

Does the alignment "feel" typically have limits where it's a no-go, a broad middle where things will fit but poorly, and a narrow sweet spot where the bard slides in effortlessly?

I have the front mount as low as it can go "stock" and the last 1" of the bar still seems tight. The grease marks are well defined on the bottom and less so on the top.

I am considering the original theory that someone placed the 1" board in and changed the mount accordingly since it is already at a limit. There are two round marks on the hull that look like there may have been washers there before the "stock" (maybe I should say pervious owner's) board was installed.