Engine fitting sizes

GCMarine

Cadet
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
7
I've got a 1991 Volvo Penta 740B in a Chaparral Villain III. The drive says it's a DP. It is raw water cooled. I am winterizing it and need to figure out what type of fitting I need to plug into the raw water pump to run the anti-freeze in. Since the pump is in the engine and not the drive (from what I can tell), I assume I need to run the antifreeze directly into the pump. Is it a screw in fitting or can I plug into a hose? What sizes, etc? Thanks for any help!
 

wrvond

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Messages
597
Normally you disconnect the hoses to let them drain, open drain plugs on the block and exhaust manifold(s). After draining all water, reconnect the hoses and replace plugs. Remove thermostat and pour anti freeze into the thermostat opening. No pumping required.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,038
I wouldn't remove the thermo housing.(ruin the gasket and possibly cause a leak)
The fluid can be added through the hoses.

Look on U-tube for video's and read, read, read.
If not drained right the lower part of the block can still have water and it WILLL freeze.

The second post in this section has a bunch of posts covering a lot of things a boat owner might need.

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...s/how-winterize-your-engine-drive-178695.html
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,371
I just drain the block, pump hoses and manifolds then disconnect the large hose coming from the circulating pump to the thermostat housing at the housing and pour my antifreeze into the large hose until full. Then disconnect the exhaust manifold hoses from the thermostat housing hold upright and pour antifreeze into them until full. Replace all hoses back onto the thermostat housing.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
49,585
on your 740

assuming you already changed the oil and filter, the fuel filter and took care of the drive maintenance

2 block drains - remove and prod holes with wire to make sure nothing stuck in hole and it drains completely
1 oil cooler drain - remove and prod hole
2 manifold drains - remove and prod holes with wire to make sure nothing stuck in hole and it drains completely
pull impeller
remove large hose from circulating pump to T-stat housing. and drain

your now winterized

if you want to add antifreeze, put the plugs back in, pull hoses off T-stat housing one at a time and using a funnel pour AF into hoses
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,038
Some just drain the block/manifolds and throw the plugs on top of the motor.
Not a good idea.
​Always replace the plugs, in the spring the threads might be rusted up and the plugs won't go back in???
 

jeffnick

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
695
I put in a 3 way valve instead of the stock "J" hose so I can suck antifreeze out of a bucket on deck.
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I get her up to temp before running the antifreeze in. It takes about 5 gallons...but we don't usually get much below 20? here. The safest way is to drain everything - don't forget to crack open the front plate of the pump.

It's also a good way to flush without using the muffs.
 

GCMarine

Cadet
Joined
Nov 14, 2016
Messages
7
Thanks for all the advice from everyone! This is all super-helpful!

Jeffnick, do you have any info on that 3 way valve - a part number or anything? If not, I'm thinking I can find something at the local NAPA.
 

jeffnick

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
695
Thanks for all the advice from everyone! This is all super-helpful!

Jeffnick, do you have any info on that 3 way valve - a part number or anything? If not, I'm thinking I can find something at the local NAPA.

Y Valve 1" Barb Forespar 902001
 
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