Did I flood it, did I mis use the remote, was it old fuel, or all of the above?

SpearTub

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50hp Lightning XR, which I got a few months ago whic had been serviced just before I got it by one of the best locals, people bring ther boats from far and wide to him. Hut havnt used since I got it a few months back. It came with two 20L totes, however the one I started with trying today, goodness knows how old or what Octane the fuel is at now. I was just going to use the fresher fuel we filled the other tank with, but my partner got the wrong tank hooked up. Expletives, I cant stay mad as skipper is just as much my fault.

I was going to put a fuel freshner additive to our fresher tank that is 6 weeks old, but who knows how old the other tank of fuel is.....

It must have been really flooded as it was letting oil petrol into the poor ocean (clearly not much).

How would I go about diagnosing my problem?

Lastly, Im unfamiliar with the old mercury remotes for two strokes, however on a tiller you have a choke, but also you can rev it without putting it into gear, wont moving the throttle put it into forward or reverse with no neutral throttle?

a real pity as is a nice little 15ft glass tub, just right for two, a little stretched at 3 but I wasnt going to fish.

please go gently, the MS has me not so cognitively onto it that I use to be. But tips on how to fix whatever we have done wrong appreciated, Cheers.
 

racerone

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Most control boxes have feature that allows you to increase RPM in neutral.----Best to ask around and learn.----Any pictures of the control box ?
 

SpearTub

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Most control boxes have feature that allows you to increase RPM in neutral.----Best to ask around and learn.----Any pictures of the control box ?
Yeh my Yammy does, that is what I'd like to know as I do not have an operators manual. What position should the throttle be in neutral? and is there a button like the yammy to press, that lets you increase the revs in neutral with the throttle stick?

Is the level at the front a choke? and what is that dial at the back (or left if facing from on)?

It looks very similar, if not possibly exaxtly the same as this one....

I8C0FfU.jpg
 
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racerone

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The small lever is for throttle in neutral.----You push key in for priming / choke while cranking motor to cold start.----The dial is for throttle friction as indicated.
 

SpearTub

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The small lever is for throttle in neutral.----You push key in for priming / choke while cranking motor to cold start.----The dial is for throttle friction as indicated.
briliant. I had no idea key in was for choke, so in neutral the lever should raise the revs or it lets me push the throttle stick forward while keeping it in reverse?

We primed the engine until firm, it started over once, then just started backfiring and pushing oil/petrol out the carb overflow tubes.

Ruined our days fishing but if anything it taught us a lot about getting the boat ready for launch, each has a personal lot of things to do, i tie downs, getting some wd40 into the rusty dolly wheel winder and its lock. Im going to fish oil these.

So what is the easiest way to drain the old fuel from the flooded carb without having to disassemble the carb etc ?
 

SpearTub

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I guess what I did wrong was not push the key in when turning it over, so there would have been a lot of oil and little gas?

But also with the mercury should I set that neutral idle speed to a little bit raised too?
 

flyingscott

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Push the small lever up just until you feel friction. Push key in while starting. Be prepared to push the small lever down if it starts and takes off. May be some trial and error to find the right setting. If the small lever is up you should not be able to shift.
 

airshot

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Same control I have on my 1992 Merc OB. You will need to experiment some to find what works best for your motor !! First thing is to be sure you have gas that is less than 2 months old !! Then install new spark plugs !! Shifter straight up, lift fast idle arm up about 3/4 up. Push in choke ( key) for 3 seconds, then turn to start, when engine fires be prepared to slow down fast idle.
You may need to increase or decrease the seconds on holding open the choke ( key) before starting... I had the same issue when I first bought my motor. Lots of flooding or trying to lean start it. On warm summer days I hold my key in for 2-3 seconds on a cold start, but on cold fall days I hold in for 5-6 seconds before starting. After some experimenting, mine now starts almost instantly when I follow my plan. Also experiment with how far up the fast idle lever needs to be raised !!! Little things can make a big difference on initial cold start.
 

SpearTub

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First thing is to be sure you have gas that is less than 2 months old !!
Trick for old players ;-p.
This wiki suggests best way to refresh is to add new petrol at ratio of 1:3, however it still wont be as good as fresh petrol on it own. But also states fuel can last up to one year if stored correctly and 3-6 months if stored correctly, it mentions dependent on what I think it means its octane, here we have 91, 95, 98 (which my car must take). It says stablisers cannot get fuel to its original state but will stop it degrading further.

am I correct in assuming with tote tanks its best to store them with the valve shut in a cool place out of the sun and obviously open it again when about to be in use?

Its a shame having to dispose of 10L of even 91 as that is about $20 USD (converted from local currency). The newer 20L I could try refreshing with some new 98 octane as per this wiki? Its probably useable as is, but best to try it at home first anyway.

I was clearly flooding it with this older gas plus oil as the overflow tubes were putting gas and oil into the water, which as ecology folk broke our hearts (the feeling when you make a horrid mistake and beat yourself up over it)


So how do I hold the choke open if I need to push the key inward as I turning, can I just push inward first?

Lastly, how do I clear out any of this old muck, Im hesitant to pull the engine apart other than removing the spark plugs and cleaning and gapping them?

Ive been using a big open water tiller for a while and have just totally messed up.
 

SpearTub

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Push the key in while cranking it over.---Simple.
Cheers, I tried holding the key but didnt havt it pushed in and I didnt have the neutral idler up either.
Its clearing the engine of the old petrol difficult? Will removing the spark plugs help dry it up?
 

airshot

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Push key in while cranking it over to start.
Not what my manual states, push in for a couple seconds then turn key to start. My OMC was a push in as you turn the key, but my particular Merc doesn't like that. Often just fails to fire until flooded or it just keeps cranking. After reading a post on this forum, I looked up a manual, push in and hold, then turn key to start position, normally fires right up instantly, so keep a hand of the fast idle lever..
 

SpearTub

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Often just fails to fire until flooded or it just keeps cranking. After reading a post on this forum, I looked up a manual, push in and hold, then turn key to start position, normally fires right up instantly, so keep a hand of the fast idle lever..
awesome, which model do you have?

This is exactly what happened, it got flooded and more flooded until a little backfire sound which is when I gave up. Im not sure what that backfire sound was but it gave me a scare.

So I didnt have the choke in like you have said and I was using old fuel, no wonder it didnt want to start!!!

Is there any valve/screw type feature to let the old trapped fuel out? I saw something on youtube about spraying wd40 (or another similar product perhaps) in the carb it will dry it up, but dont remember all the details.

Despite being quite ill I still want to get it going as I just love being on the water. So thank you to everybody helping me.
 
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airshot

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There are supposed to be drain screws on the bottom of the fuel bowls under the carb, but I have not looked for them on mine. I usually pull the spark plugs and crank it over a few times and most seems to evaporate at least when mine flooded. Didn't have a single start problem last summer, once I found my starting pattern. Because you have flooded your engine, would be a perfect time for new plugs. I have a 1992 Classic 40 hp oil injected model, 4 cylinder.
 

SpearTub

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Tip the motor all the way forward and fuel will run out of the carbs.
So with the tilt switch do you mean tilt it toward me, ie leg up? Its been sitting like this a couple of days now. The hose is disconnected from the tote tank, is there a way to remove the fuel that will be in the fuel line and squeeze bulb? Poke the ball with a sqewer so it leaks out?

What would have caused the engine to backfire, it was strong, it blew the flap that covers the oil container upward with a lot pop? (not the oil screw lid)
 

SpearTub

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Because you have flooded your engine, would be a perfect time for new plugs. I have a 1992 Classic 40 hp oil injected model, 4 cylinder.
You reckon its needs knew ones? They were knew as has just been serviced. But if blooding ruins them Im happy to buy new ones. I dont have a gapper either. What is the best way to clean plugs?
 

racerone

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Try and start this motor using the correct procedure.-------If it does not start there is something wrong with the motor.-----Do the trouble shooting !-----You do not need to put in new plugs every week on a modern outboard.
 

airshot

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You reckon its needs knew ones? They were knew as has just been serviced. But if blooding ruins them Im happy to buy new ones. I dont have a gapper either. What is the best way to clean plugs?
Just a suggestion as it won't fire. I have saw plugs that look new, but do to fuel fouling make a weak spark. I use center fire plugs, no gapping needed.
 
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