diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

the man

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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2005 Volvo 5.7/duo prop engine #4012140990 outdrive #4202124395. Driver said he "went from forward to reverse too fast" and now will not shift into either gear. I checked cable; it is operational. Pulled outdrive- it is not the coupler. The shop manual (Seloc) describes how to take this apart and re-assemble, but they assume that you know how it all works. The exploded views are marginal- to me anyway. I have pulled shifting mechanism trying to follow the chain until I find the problem, but I cannot figure out how this works. Is there a good resource for a drawing that demonstrates how this outdrive shifts? How can I diagnose the shifting mechanism, and where do I go from here?

Any other ideas /comments welcome..

Thanks.
 

Don S

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Re: diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

Remove the upper from the lower unit, the coupler may be broken in half.
 

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the man

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Re: diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

any tips on how to get the two apart? after removing all nuts, it is very difficult to exasperate the upper from lower. I have tried prying /hammering but do not want to damage.
 

Don S

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62,321
Re: diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

it is very difficult to exasperate the upper from lower

What the 'ell are you trying to do to that drive??????? You should be ashamed of yourself :eek: :eek: :facepalm:



after removing all nuts,
There are no "nuts" did you remove the 6 bolts?

Anyway, to separate the upper from the lower.

attachment.php
 

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the man

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Re: diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

that's funny. typing in a hurry, ya know.

what i removed were nuts, from studs that came through the housing. although i am not at my shop now, I believe they are the same location as the drawing provided above. I will be back there tomorrow to try again. I will include pictures if needed.

thanks again for informative and quick information!
 

the man

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
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Messages
182
Re: diagnosing non shifting DP-SM

Yes, coupler broken (twisted) in half. Great advice. Thanks again.

The upper and lower are held in place in with four nuts on studs and two bolts. The aft two were bolts and the forward four- two on each side- were nuts to remove.

It took quite a bit of prying and coaxing to get it to break loose in the front. I had to raise the back, insert very small wedges (screwdrivers) into the front area (2-3 inches aft of the front edge), and then lower the back again to keep it square. This process repeated about 4 times, raising the front less than 1/16" each time, finally worked and it came apart.
 
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