Designs in or over gelcoat?

[Jacob Rogers]

Hey guys new here! I have a question I can’t find an answer too. So my motor bit the dust, so this winter I’ll be saving up for another motor. In the mean time I’m going to be changing the color of my boat from dark green to red with metal flake, I already have the process and materials I need to re do the gelcoat. My question is how can I get this design with my gelcoat, I also have an airbrush which I would be using to make the pattern. Is it possible? If so how and when would you airbrush the design in? After the gelcoat with metal flake cured? Or gelcoat with metal flake without wax airbrush the black on when the Gelcoat gets tacky, then 4-5 coats of clear gel last being with wax?Thanks in advance!

 

[Scott Danforth]

first, I highly recommend the Duratec 904 additive over using straight gel and gel with wax as it lays down a lot closer to paint than coming out like manure thru a spreader. Gel doesnt like to come out nice without the 904 additive, no mater how you mix it. even then consider sanding often between coats as you will get orange peel.

Read this thread on boatdesign https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/gelcoating-the-whole-boat-down-to-the-waterline.61694/

also take a look at my resto thread starting on page 9 https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1988-rogue-2420.486013/page-9

get some flat boards, and practice practice practice prior to your actual boat.

Alternatively, you can use Automotive paints on your boat if you like. they hold up on trailer boats, just not moored boats.

that pattern you show will take you about 2 days to do as you have about 20 minutes for each batch of gel then it starts to cure.

 

[Jacob Rogers]

first, I highly recommend the Duratec 904 additive over using straight gel and gel with wax as it lays down a lot closer to paint than coming out like manure thru a spreader. Gel doesnt like to come out nice without the 904 additive, no mater how you mix it. even then consider sanding often between coats as you will get orange peel.

Read this thread on boatdesign https://www.boatdesign.net/threads/gelcoating-the-whole-boat-down-to-the-waterline.61694/

also take a look at my resto thread starting on page 9 https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1988-rogue-2420.486013/page-9

get some flat boards, and practice practice practice prior to your actual boat.

Alternatively, you can use Automotive paints on your boat if you like. they hold up on trailer boats, just not moored boats.

that pattern you show will take you about 2 days to do as you have about 20 minutes for each batch of gel then it starts to cure.

I guess I should have made it more clear where the design was going. I’ll post a picture, I just want the design on the top and sides of the top part of the boat all the way around like circled in this picture. The rest of the boat with red metal flake.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I figured you were talking the cap. Still going to take a weekend plus. For a metal flake hull, that is a weekend alone up to the rub rail

 

[Jacob Rogers]

I figured you were talking the cap. Still going to take a weekend plus. For a metal flake hull, that is a weekend alone up to the rub rail

I’ve got plenty of time so time is not a worry. Could you walk me through step by step of how you would go about making that design on the cap with metal flake and an airbrush. Like when could I airbrush the design on in the process? Appreciate you help so far

 

[Scott Danforth]

The first thing you do is practice.

Make sure you can even spray gell thru an airbrush.

You have base color, then taping off and doing the fields, then the stripes, then your designs. Then hours of sanding, then touch-up, then clear, then hours of sanding, then polishing

 

[Jacob Rogers]

The first thing you do is practice.

Make sure you can even spray gell thru an airbrush.

You have base color, then taping off and doing the fields, then the stripes, then your designs. Then hours of sanding, then touch-up, then clear, then hours of sanding, then polishing

I just want to get the steps down so I can practice like you said. So would I have to use wax in the base coat to be able to tape on top of the base color? Use acetone to remove the wax and wet sand? Then start the design process? I’m not going to be doing the silver lines just the red flake then use a stencil to airbursh the black on

 

[Jacob Rogers]

Guess I wouldn’t have to use wax if I used Duratec. If I sprayed colored gel for the first coat then redflake for the second, I was planning on using the airbrush to spray just a regular black paint over the redflake layer for the design using a stencil, then clear gel over that. Would this way work or would I have to use a specific black paint for the airbrush?

 

[todhunter]

Paint won't work layered in gel. It will have to be gel

 

[Scott Danforth]

Use the duratec 904 vs wax. Read the links I posted

Can't use paint and gel. Your choice is all paints or all gel

Gel requires a 1.8-2.3 tip

 

[Jacob Rogers]

Okay last and final question, after each layer of gel with Duratec, do I need to sand with like a 400 and work my way up to fine

 

[Jacob Rogers]

Okay last and final question, after each layer of gel with Duratec, do I need to sand with like a 400 and work my way up to fine, also if I decide to spare my Duratec, can I mix at a 3:1 ratio? That would be 24oz gelcoat 8 ounces Duratec mixing at 32oz together.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Okay last and final question, after each layer of gel with Duratec, do I need to sand with like a 400 and work my way up to fine

Most likely yes. I usually sand 240, 320, 400,600,800, then grab the polishing compound

 

[Scott Danforth]

Duratec is usually a 1:1 mix. However you have to test

 

[Jacob Rogers]

Duratec is usually a 1:1 mix. However you have to test

Thank you for the help Scott! You the man! Thanks for the threads also!