Couple of rebuild questions.

[kickinitoldfool]

I have a couple of questions,

1) What is the point of Gluvit if there is an exposed seam inside the ribs which would allow water to get access to the rivots on the inside?

2) Why are people not getting old holes TIG welded vs. patching with JB and other materials?

 

[North Beach]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

1) I slathered Gluvit on everything I could on the inside of my hull. And since the gluvit is self levelling, it will ATTEMPT to find the holes and fill them. Can I say my hull is 100 percent watertight because of the gluvit-NO. But I can say I did everything I could to make it so while I had the deck and flotation out. This is a belt AND suspenders scenario. And I'm not alltogether sure what you mean by exposed seam on the inside of the ribs. The hull is one peice with the only seams being at the bow and at the sides.

2) If you spend any amount of time here two things become very evident. The first being some of these guys are so tight they squeek when they walk (no offense intended) and secondly, most of us are DIYers and our nature forces us to watch you do something that works perfectly well and then decide our way is better (even if that is not the case). So you have to get used to biting your tongue and letting folks reinvent the wheel sometimes.

 

[cutbait76]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

I agree with almost everything NB said though I wont venture into character flaws like he did . I'm one of those "frugal" types

1. Indeed Gluv-it is worth it, however Goop Coat-it is 1/2 the price and performs flawlessly. 19 bucks on Amazon I think is where I got mine. Like NB said, is it waterproof forever and gauranteed? NOPE

2. Tig welders arent just in everyones shop and at every corner.

Paying the welder by the hour at 50 bucks when you can epoxy/jb weld the same hole {that is not boat sinkable size} at home for virtually nothing and that epoxy/jb weld approach is proven to be satisfactory doesn't compute in my mind.


You've got a group of guys here who buy beat up 40 year old boats to restore.

A. either money is tight and they can't afford a 20,000 to 30,000 new rig that is similar to these Starcrafts or

B. they are DIY'ers who would rather die than have someone do it for them.

Put me in both catagories

 

[North Beach]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

I agree with almost everything NB said though I wont venture into character flaws like he did . I'm one of those "frugal" types

1. Indeed Gluv-it is worth it, however Goop Coat-it is 1/2 the price and performs flawlessly. 19 bucks on Amazon I think is where I got mine. Like NB said, is it waterproof forever and gauranteed? NOPE

2. Tig welders arent just in everyones shop and at every corner.

Paying the welder by the hour at 50 bucks when you can epoxy/jb weld the same hole {that is not boat sinkable size} at home for virtually nothing and that epoxy/jb weld approach is proven to be satisfactory doesn't compute in my mind.


You've got a group of guys here who buy beat up 40 year old boats to restore.

A. either money is tight and they can't afford a 20,000 to 30,000 new rig that is similar to these Starcrafts or

B. they are DIY'ers who would rather die than have someone do it for them.

Put me in both catagories

Me trying to make a point and futile attempt at humor combined....

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

squeek squeek!

lol

 

[cutbait76]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

Me trying to make a point and futile attempt at humor combined....

Understood, and the point was accurate

 

[kickinitoldfool]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

What I mean about an untreated seam is on the inside of the rib where you can not treat it. Can water not get between rib bottom and hull bottom and leak on side rivot is not treated?

 

[Captmills]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

rivets are only between 2 pieces of metal where they can be seen, and yes there will be some areas that will not be treated but there is little you can do about that. Seal what you can and hope for the best. If the rivet has a gap the gluvit will most likely settle in that area and seal it off.

 

[North Beach]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

rivets are only between 2 pieces of metal where they can be seen, and yes there will be some areas that will not be treated but there is little you can do about that. Seal what you can and hope for the best. If the rivet has a gap the gluvit will most likely settle in that area and seal it off.

Some is always better than none.....

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

I think the guys have handled the leak sealing questions. So onto the hole filling question. Cutbait touched one part - squeek squeek. Another thing is aluminum welding is a very specialized craft. Do it wrong and you have brittle metal or bigger holes to patch. The skin is thin and easily burns through. Most these holes are cosmetic repair, not structural. Just my 2 cents.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

Gluvit is my best effort to seal up leaks (as well as potential leaks) and I can't TIG weld

 

[kickinitoldfool]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

Ok totally understand what you guys are saying, was not aware tig welding was that expensive and I get that it is thin so makes sense.

Another question who cuts the top and bottom of transom at the 78 degree transom lean? Does anyone or does everyone just cut it at a 90 and call it a day? I was wondering if its important or not.

thanks

 

[Bwana Don]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

Brazing is a good option for filling holes. It's strong and seals up small to mid-size cracks and holes. Tig can weld 3/32-1/8 aluminum, some warpage will occurr. Welders charge a bloody fortune, cause aluminum is finicky. Wrong welder, pile of carp. Tig has it's place.

Gluvit is a must for sealing old seams and rivets. Not a lot of other options that are as good as the Gluvit (epoxy).

 

[barato2]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

on the transom, i think the bottom is cut at a 90 anyway....the metal "shelf" it sits in is at roughly 90 degrees to the transom, not to vertical. the top....i guess it would be the best workmanship to cut the bevel so the transom caps sits as level as possible. i was planning on just touching up my cut as needed with a portable belt sander. but by all means, go for it!

also, on JB vs TIG....totally aisde from cost considerations, i can JB up holes in the evening after work. taking it to my buddy with the TIG welder would take an entire evening towing hull over and back......

 

[Captmills]

Re: Couple of rebuild questions.

After I dropped in the new transom I found that there was a slight angle to the top of the gunwales so I took it off with a sharp chisel and resealed the cut. Didn't want to pull the transom out after I had just stuffed it into place