Chasing vibration

[Jmunk]

2003 Sea Ray 182
4.3 Merc #0M369570
Alpha 1 Gen 2 #0M449015

Boat is new to me this year, bought from original owner with low hours. Previous owner said only fluid changes have been done along with winterzations, fresh water only. Recently noticed a vibration either in gear or neutral with RPM raised and drive turned left or right. Straight there is no noise or vibration. I pulled the drive and gimbal bearing is smooth and feels tight with exception of a hair of play at top and bottom, can't really feel it but you can see the grease move with pressure. U-joints turn smooth with no play, they are the sealed units. No water in bellow to indicate water intrusion and no rust at all on the gimbal bearing.

Checked alignment with tool, very small amount of play up-and-down but none side to side at the gimbal bearing. Turned the alignment tool 90? still have same up-and-down but no side to side. Alignment was good and the bar went in with only two fingers.

Not sure if the best thing to do is to pull a U joint and check the end for wear or suspect the gimbal bearing although it turns smooth.

 

[bspeth]

grease your gimbal bearing,if the noise goes away for a while I would suspect the bearing. If noise is exactly the same have a look at your ujoints. Doesnt sound ready to fail yet,good project for the winter

 

[Scott06]

I'd second u joints or gimbal. Had a similar vibration in my boat replaced the gimbal (even thought it didn't feel rough) still had it and then did the ujoints. Even though u joints felt smooth it made a big difference in vibration. It's not too much work and you can cross reference the ujoints to a NAPA or automotive part they cost like $10 each. I think the OEM merc gimbals last longer than Sierra. If you do both the gimbal and ujoints you'll be good for several years to come...

 

[stonyloam]

The gimbal bearing should be perfect. You can see a bit of play, I would replace it with an OEM bearing. I would change the impeller while you have it apart and bellows this winter. Make sure your trim limit wires are in good shape, and the shift cable if not you can replace the switch and cable when you do the bellows (all OEM parts).

 

[Rick Stephens]

Same for me, when I turned, I had vibration. Gimbal was new. Ujoints felt perfect. Replaced them anyway and vibration gone.

 

[Jmunk]

Thanks for replies. I'm going to attempt to put a video on YouTube (never done it) of the gimbal bearing.

When I got the boat I dropped the lower unit and changed the impeller which the guy said was original. Believe it or not wasn't cracked but the arms had a set to them. Anyhow.....

I've never had a bad U-joint on a vehicle be bad but turn smooth and free of play, not saying it's not possible just haven't come across it yet.

I'll change the gimbal bearing with a OEM unit which I read are now sealed and come with a plug for the zerk.

What's everyone's thoughts on using automotive U-joints vs Mercruiser units? I found a list that looks like says they cross over to Spicers and other brands.

 

[bspeth]

They are the same IMO,just buy a quality U.

 

[Jmunk]

The list I had for auto u-joints in the adults section was for inner clips. I have the outter clip style. Anyone have any part numbers that they used ? Also, when I put grease into the gimbal bearing before the last trip to attempt to help the noise/vibration. Didn't see to help any, if it did then didn't last long at all.

 

[Pete104]

The list I had for auto u-joints in the adults section was for inner clips. I have the outter clip style. Anyone have any part numbers that they used ? Also, when I put grease into the gimbal bearing before the last trip to attempt to help the noise/vibration. Didn't see to help any, if it did then didn't last long at all.

Can't help with the numbers but the gimbal brgs are now sealed. No more greasing.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I got my u-joints at NAPA.

 

[NHGuy]

I went searching and made sure to find some that can be greased. I'm, ol school on bearings, I believe in replacing lubricant.
If you want to really criticize the u joints try to push the crosses in and out against the u joint needle caps, as opposed to pivoting them. I find play on otherwise smooth bearings there first.

BTW the easy way to change them is with a vice, or c clamp or ball joint tool. Take the clips off. Put an oversize socket around the opening on one end and an undersized socket on on the other end to push out the cap into the oversize socket. Then flip it and push the other way. Remove the one nearest the drive first, then if the other one is uncooperative you can warm it without cooking the drive seal.

 

[Jmunk]

No Title

I went to O'riellys and rented a slide hammer and three jaw puller. Took about 10 hits and it was out. There is a video of the bearing with the alignment tool in. There is a hair of up and down play but none side to side. Have to watch the top of the bearing for the grease to move. The bearing seemed to turn smooth still when it was out. A 1/16" or so of in and out play on the inner most race. The play might have come from the slide hammer ? Seemed to be some rust or discoloration marks on the inner race. Is the small amount of play normal or is that enough to cause a vibration and a growl. Attached are photos of the drive and transom assembly, if anyone catches anything of out the ordinary let me know. Still can't find any play in the u-joints. This drive looks pretty darn clean to me with no signs of water intrusion. Went to home depot and put together a gimbal bearing installer, not saying it's the right tool however should work fine. It's a 3" PVC bushing that I took a belt sander too, to shave off hex portion and turn down to the right size and takes a 2" PVC pipe. https://youtu.be/0saOGMtIH5Y - Gimbal bearing with alignment tool inserted. https://youtu.be/dX2NOxOHPXM - Gimbal bearing on driveshaft. Is the discoloration on the driveshaft normal ?

 

[stonyloam]

ANY play is too much. Bet your problem is solved. The rest looks pretty good.

 

[NHGuy]

I like your tool, good idea. Did you drive it in? Or press it? Did it mash the plastic? I'd recommend freezing the bearing before installing if you haven't installed yet. It will contract a little and slip in easier. If you have the greasable style don't forget to index the grease channel.

 

[Scott06]

Nice install tool, did the same with 3" PVC pipe, nice drive stand as well...

You can use automotive ujoints there is no marine ujoint per say, merc buys from the same companies that make them for cars and trucks.

In an old thread the late Don S offered these cross refs for the gen 2


Neapco 1-005 NOTE: This ujoint may have grease zirks in caps. DO NOT use if they do.
Spicer 5.4x
Precision 344
Rockford K4

On summit ratings website the precision 344 crises to a moog 344- $23 each..

On my old gen one I used moog 315's from summit for $10 each and they works just fine, still had grease nipples...

 

[Jmunk]

Haven't put the bearing in, going to the local Mercruiser tomorrow for it. I'm sure it will be a sealed unit. The PVC is pretty thick, we will see how well it works. I hope I found the vibration/noise, if not the U-joints will be next when it's put up in the next few weeks.

I'll look at the u-joint cross reference numbers.

Thanks

 

[Scott06]

Sealed unit is fine. While I'd prefer to grease it, they OEM bearings are a high quality unit made by SKF, much better than some cheap ones out there

 

[Jmunk]

No Title

Got the new bearing and gasket set for the outdrive. The PVC tool didn't really work too good and I ended up sourcing a 2-1/2" socket from Northen tool for $18. With the socket and a extension the bearing went right in.

Didn't realize the plug for the grease port that came with the new bearing was a tamper proof design with a pin in the middle of the bit head. I don't have The proper bit at this time so I left the zerk in for now.

Alignment bar went in easy at first after whacking the end of it as mentioned it went in very easy with two fingers and had good marks all the way around.

This was my first time removing and reinstalling an outdrive. It took me a few minutes to get the splines lined up with the coupler to get it to slide back on nice and easy. Not sure if Im missing something or there's easier way to do it then just trial and error with the driveshaft position in relation to the coupler splines.

Going to put it in the water tonight and see if the noise and vibration is gone. With the new bearing there was no play up-and-down with the gimbal bearing like the old one had.

 

[Scott06]

If the shift fork is in forward you have to keep CCW pressure on the prop to keep it in gear, when you get the drive mounted up to the point of spline engagement just turn the prop CCW while pushing in. It's easier if you have four hands.

Let's us know how it works out

 

[Jmunk]

If the shift fork is in forward you have to keep CCW pressure on the prop to keep it in gear, when you get the drive mounted up to the point of spline engagement just turn the prop CCW while pushing in. It's easier if you have four hands.

Let's us know how it works out

Thanks, I had the prop off so the drive would fit into my drive stand. I tried to turn the prop shaft but didn't have enough force to turn the shaft alone.

Water test went good, no noise or vibration.

I intend to build a bushing type insert for the socket I used to drive the gimbal bearing in. I would like something inside the socket that keeps it centered over the bearing.