Can you change from welded to bolted?

chrisvm75

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Dec 12, 2022
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Hey all, I have a galvanized double axle trailer with welded cross members. The existing cross memebers are in need of being replaced. I was wondering if i could cut the existing members off and grind down flush to the frame. Then bolt new cross members on in the same location? Or will this not provide the required support that the welded connection has?
Or is this trailer even worth putting that much money into?
thanks for any input you can offer.
 

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Lou C

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The problem with doing that is finding a bolt on crossmember bracket that matches up to the frame that you have (C channel), not saying it can’t be done. I bought some new brackets for my Load Rite so that I could lower the crossmembers to get the boat lower on the roller trailer.
 

Chris1956

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Bolt on crossmembers have fittings that bolt to the crossmember and the frame. This allows them to be flush with the frame. You would therefore need to find both pieces of hardware.

The real question is whether the frame is solid, as well as the springs, axles and wheels. If those things are sound, and you can find the brackets and cross members, it may be worth doing.

Trailer parts cost a lot more individually than the entire package, just like autos. I would see what components you can find, price 'em up and then decide. Likely a new trailer would be the best investment.
 

Lou C

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This is the type of bracket they used with boxed frames
 

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Scott06

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Hey all, I have a galvanized double axle trailer with welded cross members. The existing cross memebers are in need of being replaced. I was wondering if i could cut the existing members off and grind down flush to the frame. Then bolt new cross members on in the same location? Or will this not provide the required support that the welded connection has?
Or is this trailer even worth putting that much money into?
thanks for any input you can offer.
What is the age of the trailer - is it aluminum or galvanized? what's the condition of tires brakes wheel bearings etc - what else do you have to repair?

How much are the cross members? Would figure $100-125 each. While you could bolt them up I cant imagine it costing much to have them welded.

I would add it all up and compare to new trailer cost which would figure $4000-4500 , could be off on that number
 

Scott Danforth

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First, welcome aboard

when you go from a welded joint to a bolted joint, you must run the calculations to ensure that the bolted joint is adequate. you may need backing plates, etc as the material looks really thin.

considering the work required to repair that trailer, a brand new trailer would be less money.
 

racerone

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Scot06----Post #1 says it is galvanized.-----That would make it a steel trailer.------Likely made with cheap steel.------When corrosion takes hold of the steel as shown , it deems it SCRAP in my opinion.
 

dingbat

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I take your looking for a bolt on solution to save a trip to the welding shop. Otherwise it’s an easy remove and replace repair.

I was fabricator and certified welder in a prior life but have no idea what shops charge theses days much.

The problem you’ll have is finding a support bracket designed to attach to the leg of a c-channel. Not going to happen for structural reasons. The best you could do is fab a custom bracket but that would cost just as much if not more than the outright replacement.

FWIW… I’m fighting the same rusting problems with my trailer. Need a bunk support brkt., rear cross member and a frame rail.

Figured it was a good enough excuse to buy new and went window shopping. A new bunk trailer for my boat is $6,100 with taxes and title.

Can fix what I have for less than $1,500…..
 

Scott06

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Scot06----Post #1 says it is galvanized.-----That would make it a steel trailer.------Likely made with cheap steel.------When corrosion takes hold of the steel as shown , it deems it SCRAP in my opinion.
Didn't catch that thanks. Depending on use yeah prob wouldn't fix it either.
 

Lou C

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Here you can see the brackets that Load Rite uses on their box section galvanized trailers. This one is a '94 and the steel is in great shape, but my boat lives on a mooring so it has only gone in salt about 2-4 times per year over the 20 years I've owned it.lowered cross members done.jpg
 

poconojoe

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Bring it to a welder.
Or, if you're handy, get yourself a welding machine and a good auto darkening helmet, gloves etc. and learn to weld. It takes some practice, but It comes in handy once in a while.
 

froggy1150

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For the price of the wire feed he would need to weld that properly... be cheaper to have a fab shop do it.
Could get a cheapo ac buzz box but to stick weld correctly takes a fair amount of practice .... even with 6013 rod much less 7018 I would use
 

racerone

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But you need something to weld to.----The channel in one picture tells me it is severely corroded.----This trailer is not worth salvaging.
 

Scott Danforth

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The OP hasn't been back.

I own a welder and have access to hundreds more..... I could weld that in my sleep. However there are 2 things in the world where proper penetration is paramount...... Welding is the first one

I agree that the trailer can be redone. The cross members are toast. Most likely the axles are soon to follow.

That trailer is 2 side channels and a shape.

To hire out the fab work and the axles. The bill would be about $2k. New trailer price and the welds could only be cold galvanized

I have priced out making a complete trailer myself using the fab equipment at work...... even with using my hot-dip vendor and it costs me $800 more to make a trailer than what I can buy one for. Hard to complete with companies that manufacturer in volume.

To the OP. Learning to weld is a great skill set. However in this situation, not sure it would help.
 

tpenfield

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Hard to tell the trailer is/was galvanized to begin with. Certainly can be saved, but not without a metal worker's touch (IMO).

sand blasting, welding, re-galvanizing, etc . . .
 

Lou C

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That or find a similar size used trailer in better shape. The way the original welds were done looks questionable to me; all that weight is concentrated in a small area. The great majority of galvanized trailers are box section not C channel and I think box section is naturally more rigid.
 

Scott Danforth

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The great majority of galvanized trailers are box section not C channel and I think box section is naturally more rigid.
depends on manufacturer

pick 20 galvanized trailer manufactures and you have 20 different design and manufacturing philosophies, however all will last the 2-3 year warranty against rust-out.

C Channel is easier to use (forming, etc) and to get full coverage on galvanizing.

tube is slightly lighter because the wall thickness is generally significantly less, and is better in torsion to a point, however in bending about the same.

tube is difficult to get galvanizing on the interior of the tube because of the method of hot-dipping as you cant clean the interior of a tube effectively.

all will rust starting at the welds where the galvanizing is the worst and the base material flexes a bit.
 

racerone

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We will see what happens with this project.----No response from owner at this time.
 

dingbat

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tube is difficult to get galvanizing on the interior of the tube because of the method of hot-dipping as you cant clean the interior of a tube effectively.
Suggest you find a new coater that knows the process…lol

The materials is degreased in a hot alkaline solution then pickled (typically hydrochloric acid) to remove mill scale then dried.

From there it’s rinsed then dipped in ammonium chloride that acts like a flux for zinc.

 
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