AQ 280 shifter seal replacement

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hammerhead_77

Seaman Apprentice
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Feb 28, 2016
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So.... My free boat ain't so free after all. See my thread in the hull repair forum if you want the gory details.

Anyway, today I was replacing the prop that the PO hit some rocks with...and I noticed some leakage on the shifter seal.. Drained the oil and YEP! its got water in it. Since I know the OD was rebuilt and then the boat sat for a long time, I'm guessing the seal dried out and when I did a bunch of shifting this weekend fwd-n-r-n-fwd-n-r-n-fwd... while waiting for a spot at the launch to get to the dock it probably started to leak.

My thoughts are to change the seal, flush it with 10w30, run it, change the oil again and rock on if no more water.

My question is, how much of a pain is it to change that shifter seal? Do you start by taking the 4 bolts our of the plate or by taking the one bolt out of the shifter arm?

THanks to anyone who has changed this and can coach me!
 

72fj40

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 16, 2013
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I had to work on our aq280 OD last year. 1st I found a downloadable factory Volvo Penta Repair Manual for free on the net. I also found several Volvo Penta component parts diagrams. I think there are 4 of them for the OD, upper gear box, intermediate, lower and connecting components, these have the diagrams of the assemblies and part numbers. As for your question, remove the 4 bolts and the assembly can be removed. Be careful because there is a brass shoe an spring that slides on the end shifter shaft inside. From my research, there is more than 1 seal involved in resealing the shifter assembly. Like I said download the manual and diagrams. The manual has step by step instructions in the manual and the diagram shows all the seals and part numbers involved. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in.

I think the OD takes 30wt oil.
 
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hammerhead_77

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Thanks. I got the manual and it doesn't look too bad. I think I'll get the seal and give it a shot... If anybody else has done this, please let me know what tips/tricks you have...
 

PiratePast40

Lieutenant Commander
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Best way to figure out which seals are leaking is to do the pressure test that is discussed in the manual. You can make your own tester or buy one. Here's one on ebay:
 

hammerhead_77

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PiratePast40 not a bad idea... I know this one is bad because there was some oil leakage on the outside of the shifter eccentric, but it would be good to know what else is leaking (hopefully nothing!). If oil can get out, water can get in. Got the parts today - was surprised that it was only $10. If this goes as easily as changing the prop and zinc did, I'm gonna be a happy dude!
 

hammerhead_77

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OK, so actually this is not a hard thing at all. a cotter pin, and 4 7/16 bolts and the shift mechanism is in your hand. Drift the roll pin, pull the big pin, pull the piston out, pop out the old seal, clean everything up. No problem...EXCEPT(!) I cocked it up back in step 2... you are supposed to drift the roll pin back into the blind hole far enough to get the big pin out. Then you are supposed to tap it on a piece of wood until the roll pin falls out....except that I drifted it a little too far and now I can't get the roll pin out of the blind hole!!

I need some ideas here... I've cocked this up badly and I really don't want to buy a new $90 excentric piston because of a $0.02 roll pin!! How the F$&% do you get a pin out of a blind hole?

Any and every help is appreciated!
 

Bobson2

Cadet
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Oct 19, 2020
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PiratePast40 not a bad idea... I know this one is bad because there was some oil leakage on the outside of the shifter eccentric, but it would be good to know what else is leaking (hopefully nothing!). If oil can get out, water can get in. Got the parts today - was surprised that it was only $10. If this goes as easily as changing the prop and zinc did, I'm gonna be a happy dude!
Did you ever get the roll pin out? I have done the same thing.
 
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