Alpha1 Gen1 Does Not Engage FWD or REV

vegaschef364

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Jun 24, 2022
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I will try to keep this as brief as possible here. 87 Cobalt I/O V6 Alpha1 gen1 with the Thunderbolt4 Ignition and a Quicksilver throttle, old style from what I have seen. Garaged all year in Missouri, Opened the 4 drains at the bottom of engine, and single one back of boat, forget what those are called, and removed the water cooler hoses.

Got to the lake last week, closed up all the drains and put the water hoses back on but must not have tightened one enough. Before pulling out of the garage I did check the shift cable because I had trouble with it last year, just seemed a little loose. I watched the video on adjusting the cable, 6" from brass fitting to the hole on the end of the cable housing, locked in reverse and fwd so I thought it was fine. On the short, maybe a mile ride from ramp to the dock the bilge pump started going and I saw smoke coming from the compartment. Instantly shut it off opened the compartment and it was pretty much full of water, about halfway up the crankcase but being pumped out. The smoke I realized was steam from the water hitting the engine. Saw the hose and put it back on tight. Let it sit for a few until the pump sucked out all the water. Started right up, temp normal and into fwd and to the slip. Tied up, everything seemed fine.

Got up the next day checked all the hoses, oil was fine, no funny color or smell, started up just fine, I did use the throttle only button briefly to start it. I'm still new to boating and had a rope and tube attached behind so I push the boat out of the slip. Put it into fwd and it just revved up. Pulled the rope and tube out tried a couple times more, no fwd but reverse did work. Backed back into the slip and turned off.

Since it's still in the water I checked the prop again with engine off, and manually with the lower shift cable gently pushed it in to forward and the prop spun ccw, did not lock, pulled the cable out to reverse, spun cw and it locked. I mentioned that to someone that knows more about boats than I do and he said that it was a safety mechanism that when the engine was turned off the prop does spin freely in fwd to avoid starting it up in gear and taking off, but that seems contradictory to what I have read, or maybe just reading it wrong.

So with my limited knowledge I assume it has to be out of water to repair at this point. A few days go by as I do not have a truck to pull it and waiting for my brother in law to get here, I look into it a bit more and while messing with the throttle I realize the square throttle button does not seem to be working right, push it in and there was no definitive click, and had trouble pushing the throttle forward while holding the button. I fiddle with it a bit, make sure it is in neutral and hear the click so I start it up, starts fine, push very gently towards forward and can just start to hear the little grind as fwd engages so pull it right back to neutral. Grab some paddles and unhook the boat, was backed in, start it up and into fwd and right out of the slip. Do a few circles, in and out of F N R, engine on and off, for about 15 minutes. Take it down the cove, seemed to drive just fine. Out into the main lake no problems. Call the kids that had been dying to go tubing all week, get them down on the tube and take a few loops around inside the cove, no problems, so out to the main lake. Temp, oil, everything seemed fine, do a couple loops then started faintly hearing what I thought at first was an airplane or helicopter, they fly overhead often. Didn't see one, as I go to pull back the throttle I hear it a bit louder, drop it into neutral, tried going back into fwd and nothing, just revved. Saw the temp was getting high so I turned it off. Pulled the tube, opened the compartment, other than the heat I did not notice anything wrong. Let it cool down, started right up, sounded fine, but no fwd or reverse. Luckily got a tow back to the slip and there it sits.

So with my limited knowledge, and my brother in laws apprentice knowledge we will call it, trying to figure it out. Thinking/hoping it is just something with the linkage, maybe the throttle only button on the throttle, I've read that the little spring in there gets out of whack and can cause similar problems. So with all that being said, and with it still in the water, we are planning on checking that button on the throttle, and again the remote (upper), and shift (lower) cable? If my terminology is wrong please let me know. But with being in the water those cables can really only be checked at the top of the engine and anything lower would have to be out of water? Which we can do, but trying to avoid that if possible. And as far as I can tell that would be the extent of what we can troubleshoot while still in the water.

Sorry for the long post but wanted to be as specific as possible to alleviate any back and forth Q/A with info I did not mention. And thanks in advance for any advice offered.
 

kenny nunez

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After pulling the boat out, lower the drive, remove the 4 bolts on the top cover. If the drive ran dry the gears will be $hreaded
 

vegaschef364

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Jun 24, 2022
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After pulling the boat out, lower the drive, remove the 4 bolts on the top cover. If the drive ran dry the gears will be $hreaded
Ok is there any point in trying anything else while it's in the water? Or since I don't know how much if any oil is in there even if I could fix it I have to pull it to check that anyways? And if they are shredded what am I looking at replacing? Or if there is oil and the gears are ok what might be my next step?
 
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Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... As I mentioned over at that other forum,.... Look at the lower shift cable, where it crosses the exhaust y-pipe,....
Hot enough, that cable melts, 'n acts funky or binds up tight,...
 

vegaschef364

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,...... As I mentioned over at that other forum,.... Look at the lower shift cable, where it crosses the exhaust y-pipe,....
Hot enough, that cable melts, 'n acts funky or binds up tight,...
Ok, going to head down there and check it out now, thank you.
 
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dubs283

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With the engine running check to make sure the input shaft for the drive is rotating

Your mention of loosing shift and engine temp rising could mean an issue with the coupler
 

vegaschef364

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As far as I can tell the cable seems ok, I followed it as far in as I could and didn't feel any signs of it melting. And for the input shaft I honestly have no idea. At this point I'm too freaked out to start it. I'm just going to pull it tomorrow and get it in the garage. I guess I will start with the 4 bolts, check the gears. If those are ok then I will first go through a maintenance checklist, I know I've seen some online and think I saw one on the home page of this forum. Just kind of guessing here but seems like lube would be the best place to start. Then check the input shaft as dubs mentioned then the shift cable on the lower end?
 

vegaschef364

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Ok, so finally was able to get it out of the water, I don't have a 12pt socket so I opened up the 2 plugs and out came lots of oil, only felt 1 tiny little piece of metal shavings, and doesn't appear to be any water. It is dark though so not sure what it should look like but was told that what I have is correct. And guessing it's safe to assume the snapped cable is the reason for my shifting problems. So replace the shift cable, refill the oil, and while I'm at it grease the swivel and tilt points, as well as remove the prop and grease the washer and shaft? That was everything that was on the video I saw for the regular maintenance. Have already checked the oil and it is fine. So with doing all that, should I feel comfortable about putting it back in the water? I've only got another week or so of the vacation, have already made plans to come out a week early by myself next year to do some more in depth maintenance.
 

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nola mike

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No...
That cable is just a continuity wire, nothing to do with your issue.
Agree with @kenny nunez and @dubs283 that the overheat + not getting into gear would suspect shredding gears, broken outdrive driveshaft or spun engine coupler.
1. I'm not real clear on what happens when you activate the shift cable (with it disconnected from the shift plate, right?). Does it move? Does the prop still lock in either direction? (Whoever told you that it shouldn't lock with the engine off doesn't know much more about boats than you do...)
2. Still pull the top cover of the outdrive and see what you see if the shift cable moves freely but the prop doesn't lock.
3. Also check to see if the driveshaft is spinning. If you can see the driveshaft from the rear of your engine, you can try starting the engine (on muffs) and see if the shaft turns.
 

vegaschef364

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No...
That cable is just a continuity wire, nothing to do with your issue.
Agree with @kenny nunez and @dubs283 that the overheat + not getting into gear would suspect shredding gears, broken outdrive driveshaft or spun engine coupler.
1. I'm not real clear on what happens when you activate the shift cable (with it disconnected from the shift plate, right?). Does it move? Does the prop still lock in either direction? (Whoever told you that it shouldn't lock with the engine off doesn't know much more about boats than you do...)
2. Still pull the top cover of the outdrive and see what you see if the shift cable moves freely but the prop doesn't lock.
3. Also check to see if the driveshaft is spinning. If you can see the driveshaft from the rear of your engine, you can try starting the engine (on muffs) and see if the shaft turns.
Yeah was just at the marina, he said the same thing about the wire. Kind of had a feeling that I shouldn't believe what my buddy said about the prop. But I just picked up a new shift cable and a 12pt socket to get that cover off and will get in and check out the cable. If it's good I guess I'll have a spare and move on to the other things you mentioned. Since I didn't feel any metal shavings in the oil thinking the gears should be ok though?
 

flashback

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Going into the top will not check out the cable but you'll get a good look at the upper gears. You need to pull the drive to change cable/ shift parts..
 

vegaschef364

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So yeah, the drive gear is gone, the driven gear (at least that's what it's called in the manual) isn't much better. So is all that a direct result of it overheating for 30 seconds? Right after it overheated it went into forward, and then a few days later forward worked also, but then went out. So was it already bad and the overheating was just the final straw? or did that somehow make it brittle? Or was it just on its way out anyways.
 

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flashback

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I don't know, I think it ran for a while until lack of lubrication took it down.
 

flashback

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Your picture doesn't offer much, looks pretty much like sludge..if you think the gears are gone then it's very possible that the lower end is also..
 

nola mike

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But it was full of oil when I drained it
Not being completely empty =/= full. That drive gear oil looks original to the boat. If this boat is new to you, you need to do all of the maintenance that's been ignored. A new SEI drive is your quickest way back on the water, or something off CL if you can find it
 

flashback

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Guess what I'm saying is that if the upper gears destroyed themselves there are pieces of metal that have migrated throughout the drive and will be problem for the lower end..
Your picture is not conclusive but you stated the gears are damaged so that's what I go on...
 

vegaschef364

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Thank you for the help, and by no means am I arguing, just trying to understand what happened so it will never happen again. Since I bought the boat I have been going by what family members that have owned boats for a long time were telling me. My brother in law that bought almost the exact same boat 8 years ago said he has never even changed the engine oil, and it runs great every year we come out here. And another that has owned fishing boats for 30 years. Neither ever mentioned anything about any of this kind of maintenance. But my boat, my responsibility and I should have done the research. The thing that is most confusing to me though, is when I drained the oil there was no trace of metal shavings, and seemed to be ok, but when I opened up that top cover it was a completely different story. The color was different, it was thicker, and was full of metal shavings. So in the future when replacing that gear oil should I remove that top cover every time as well to make sure it is ok? I have decided to just call it for this year. Will remove the whole stern drive, wrap it up and take it home with me. Will have the next 11 months to overhaul it and learn as much as I can. Any suggestions on transporting it in the back of an suv for 1200 miles? Can it be laid on its side? Or anything I should do to the inboard part of the engine other than the normal winterizing to sit all winter without the outboard part on it? Thank you all for the help.
 

nola mike

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Thank you for the help, and by no means am I arguing, just trying to understand what happened so it will never happen again. Since I bought the boat I have been going by what family members that have owned boats for a long time were telling me. My brother in law that bought almost the exact same boat 8 years ago said he has never even changed the engine oil, and it runs great every year we come out here. And another that has owned fishing boats for 30 years. Neither ever mentioned anything about any of this kind of maintenance. But my boat, my responsibility and I should have done the research. The thing that is most confusing to me though, is when I drained the oil there was no trace of metal shavings, and seemed to be ok, but when I opened up that top cover it was a completely different story. The color was different, it was thicker, and was full of metal shavings. So in the future when replacing that gear oil should I remove that top cover every time as well to make sure it is ok? I have decided to just call it for this year. Will remove the whole stern drive, wrap it up and take it home with me. Will have the next 11 months to overhaul it and learn as much as I can. Any suggestions on transporting it in the back of an suv for 1200 miles? Can it be laid on its side? Or anything I should do to the inboard part of the engine other than the normal winterizing to sit all winter without the outboard part on it? Thank you all for the help.
The guy before you didn't do any maintenance either. Sucks throwing in the towel in June, swapping in a new drive is easy if you can find one. Once the gears grenaded that thickened up the oil. Didn't have time to fully circulate. Conventional wisdom is that your lower is now contaminated and needs rebuilt. Dunno if that's the case if there aren't shavings in the lower. The only passage for oil between the 2 halves is about 5mm, and no active circulation. Almost certainly the oil level was low and the upper gears were dry. No need to remove the cover, just need to change the oil and check the level occasionally. You can transport the drive however you want. Make sure you read up on how to winterize unless you want to be replacing the whole engine next spring.
 
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