SeadawgVB
Cadet
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2009
- Messages
- 24
Saturday I spent the day dewinterizing which included swapping the impeller and inspecting the gimbal bearing and associated bellows. Everything looked great and re-assembly went smoothly. I've rebuilt outboards and spent lots of time with autos of all shapes and sizes. Mechanical repairs do not intimidate me too much (except CVT xmissions), but being an I/O novice, I followed the intructions to a "TEE". I even have a in/lbs torque wrench for tightning the impeller housing (water pump body) to 60 in/lbs. When I attached the upper to the lower unit I could see through the exhaust port in the upper, the copper water tube go into the plastic guide.
So here's the deal: After getting everything back together and connected to the water hose and starting the engine, I noticed water comming out of the two drain holes at the front of the lower unit near the shift lever. I set the water pump face seal exactly as outlined in the tech manual "Assemble the water pump face seal setting tool over the drive shaft and push the seal down onto the water pump with the tool while pulling up on the drive shaft. Remove the tool from the drive shaft."
From what I've read the real danger of this seal is if it's too tight, it will wear out quickly and if it's too loose it will allow air to get sucked in causing and over heating issue above 3000 RPM.
I don't think I've scrutinized those drain holes while flushing the engine after a saltwater run, I'm usually more concerned that warm water flows out of the water ports and the the water doesn't taste too salty (yes, I said taste).
Would the water pressure from the hose cause the seal to raise up and allow water to pass? Or is the water coming from something I completely missed. (I used perfect seal in the gaskets)
Dave Orwig
So here's the deal: After getting everything back together and connected to the water hose and starting the engine, I noticed water comming out of the two drain holes at the front of the lower unit near the shift lever. I set the water pump face seal exactly as outlined in the tech manual "Assemble the water pump face seal setting tool over the drive shaft and push the seal down onto the water pump with the tool while pulling up on the drive shaft. Remove the tool from the drive shaft."
From what I've read the real danger of this seal is if it's too tight, it will wear out quickly and if it's too loose it will allow air to get sucked in causing and over heating issue above 3000 RPM.
I don't think I've scrutinized those drain holes while flushing the engine after a saltwater run, I'm usually more concerned that warm water flows out of the water ports and the the water doesn't taste too salty (yes, I said taste).
Would the water pressure from the hose cause the seal to raise up and allow water to pass? Or is the water coming from something I completely missed. (I used perfect seal in the gaskets)
Dave Orwig
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