88' XP 150 bogging down at 2500RPM

[mcgreavster]

88' XP 150 bogs down at 2500 RPM
Finally got the boat on the water for the first time this year. Started up good and idled well for 15 minutes before I went to plane out and she had no power past 2500 rpms. Couldn't get on plane and after a couple more attempts she died on me. I could get it started again but as soon as I would put it into gear it would die. So I had to let her run in neutral for a minute after messing around with the throttle you could tell there was no rpm problem in neutral and I could have rev'd it as high as I wanted. Eventually I got it running in gear again and limped back to the dock. I gave it a few more attempts to plane out on my way back and I had the same issue.

I got back to the house and noticed there was a decent amount of oil that had collected towards the back of the powerhead on the port side. Looked like from either the bottom port or middle port cylinder. Not sure if this is related or not. It's a semi new boat to me and the inside of cowling was covered in grease and oil until I cleaned it all up this winter so this is the first time I've got to see exactly what is happening in there.

Last piece of info that also might be relevant is I ran the boat on muffs yesterday for quite a while with seafoam in the tank. Had the motor trimmed up a little too high and didn't realize how much either unburnt oil or carbon wanted to come out of the exhaust until after about 10 minutes of running, after I trimmed it down I had black stuff pouring out of it, like a crazy amount all at once. After another 30 seconds to a minute it was normal again.

 

[jakedaawg]

Compression test, open airgap sparkcheck, report results.

Fuel sample into clear container even if fuel was brand new. Get sample out of hose where it connects to motor.

 

[mcgreavster]

I put fuel into a clear container when I go back to the house, will check tomorrow. Checked compression when I bought the boat and it was all low to mid 90's and all within 1-2 psi of eachother. But I can rent a gauge and a spark checker and test again.

Also forgot to mention I just changed stator and rectifier.

 

[mcgreavster]

I forgot to mention when I replaced my stator I swapped which wires were going to each powerpack to put it like it was in the manual. Not sure if that affects anything

 

[jakedaawg]

Definetly need an open air gap spark checker set to 7/16". Check all 6 wires.

Is this motor new to you? If not check compression, if you just bought it and checked it before running then do spark check.

 

[mcgreavster]

Definetly need an open air gap spark checker set to 7/16". Check all 6 wires.

Is this motor new to you? If not check compression, if you just bought it and checked it before running then do spark check.

Bought it late last year and compression was all low-mid 90's and all within 1-2 psi. I've used it 12~ times since I bought it. I'm buying a spark checker tonight.

 

[mcgreavster]

Ok I had spark on 2 4 6 (with weak spark on 2) and no spark on 1 3 5. Is the next step testing the starboard powerpack?

 

[jakedaawg]

Switch packs and see if problem follows

 

[jakedaawg]

I forgot to mention when I replaced my stator I swapped which wires were going to each powerpack to put it like it was in the manual. Not sure if that affects anything

Please expand on this with detailed explanation including stator manufacturer, wire colors, and reasoning behind decisions. As well as reason for replacement of stator.

 

[jakedaawg]

Are you the same one that asked about stator wires the other day? Seems like you had bought a CDI stator and the wires had different color pairs? If so call cdi. They have great tech support. Phone is on their site. Lately their wire colors have been off. Sometimes wrong wire in wrong place in plugs. In my experience.

 

[jakedaawg]

As a side note, make sure the previous fisherman that owned your boat did not use the blk/yel wire for a ground for any fishing equipment under the dash. Many times you can find a graph grounded to that wire., or that terminal on the switch. This would be bad.the blk/yel is not a ground. Well, it kinda is but not really. It kills the spark by grounding the pack but can NOT be used as a ground for other things.

 

[mcgreavster]

Please expand on this with detailed explanation including stator manufacturer, wire colors, and reasoning behind decisions. As well as reason for replacement of stator.

I was mistaken, after second checking everything was set up as it was previous and how it was in the manual. Old stator was melted and rectifier wasn't working (no battery charge and no tach) so I changed both. Both are OEM parts.

 

[mcgreavster]

Are you the same one that asked about stator wires the other day? Seems like you had bought a CDI stator and the wires had different color pairs? If so call cdi. They have great tech support. Phone is on their site. Lately their wire colors have been off. Sometimes wrong wire in wrong place in plugs. In my experience.

I ended up getting the OMC stator.

 

[jakedaawg]

Well, then your back to swapping the packs to see if the problem moves.

 

[mcgreavster]

Alright I swapped the powerpacks and it didn't help. I moved on to the timer base and it failed pretty much every test in my manual. "Sensor Coil Resistance Test" was suppose to read 17 +/- 5 Ohms, I got 11.1 Ohms on all leads. Then my resistance between between the same point on the starboard and port connectors was suppose to read infinite, I got 0 Ohms.

"Sensor Coil Output Test" indicated I should be getting at least .2V when testing between the different wires in the connector and the motor cranking over, I got .1V or just under on every wire. So it appears my timing base is bad? I can't help but think this happened when removing flywheel in stator but I have no clue what I could have done. Is there ANY chance my new stator is causing me to have no spark or is it definitely the timing base?

Not related to an ignition issue but I also just now noticed I have a bolt missing right under the spark plug on the bottom port cylinder, and a leak coming from what looks like between the cylinder head and the crankcase. I imagine it's been there for a long time, the electrical problems suck and everything but this makes me way more nervous. I guess I don't know enough about the crankcase/cylinders (or anything really) but it seems like a gasket issue? Compression was good on the cylinder when I bought it.

 

[jakedaawg]

When you swapped packs and it did not help I assume you mean the problem did not follow to the other side, so...

Probably a water jacket bolt missing, not a head bolt.

Did you do the voltage test with a peak reading voltmeter? Voltage output is way more important than the ohm's.

What color wires did you put where when you installed the stator? Please be specific as possible.

Check blk/yel wire for short to ground on side that does not have spark. Isolate and ohm to ground but make sure you do not send voltage on this wire to the packs. An ohmmeter works by sending a small amt of juice through a wire and measuring it, the packs can not handle any amperage on the bulk/yel wire. So, you need to disconnect bulk/yel wire ends and place one lead on block and other lead on wire and see if you have continuity, Easiest to do boat side and motor side separately by disconnecting red plug and wire at pack and wire at key switch. Sorry if this is confusing, many on here are better at explaining this than I. Boat side you obviously are not looking for continuity between block but rather battry "-".

 

[mcgreavster]

#18 Today, 11:24 AM
After looking at my stator wiring again I noticed the brown/yellow wires from the stator don't connect to the brown/yellow of the powerpacks. Meaning when I plug the stator into the powerpack the brown/yellow wire from the stator connects to the solid brown of the PP and the solid brown from the stator connects to the brown/yellow of the PP. This is true for both the port and starboard side. Is it possible this is my issue? When looking at the wiring diagram for this model it says the brown/yellow of the stator should connect to the brown/yellow of the PP. It's weird that the port side would be working still when it is wired backwards as well. On the previous stator both wires on the starboard side were brown/yellow and both wires on the port side were brown/white.

The new stator came with an extra set of unwired plugs, is this what it's for? Like different model engines this stator is compatible with are wired differently?