87 Force 125 valve body help

[87force125]

does any body have a diagram for a force chrysler trim pump valve body need to recheck location of the springs that hold the BB's replaced the O rings on the check valves now down is up and up is nothing wont go down good news is it doesnt leak down any more is it possible the check valves are backwards ? took a pic of the bb location but not the springs

 

[maxum247]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

This is one for RRitt, maybe he'll chime in!

 

[pnwboat]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

Check out this post.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=209803

It has pictures, diagrams etc. It was helpful when I had problems with mine. Pay particular attention on installing the BB's. The one to make it go down in particular. It's been a while since I did mine, but I believe it needs to be installed in the "cap" and held in place with vasoline and not installed in the "body" like you would think.

 

[RRitt]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

does any body have a diagram for a force chrysler trim pump valve body need to recheck location of the springs that hold the BB's replaced the O rings on the check valves now down is up and up is nothing wont go down good news is it doesnt leak down any more is it possible the check valves are backwards ? took a pic of the bb location but not the springs

only way to make pump run "backwards" is to swap electrical connections. The oil tubes aren't long enough to reverse and the pump itself is incapable of lift pressure if the motor is spinning clockwise.


you should have three BB's of the same size in an '87. Put BB's into top gear plate and assemble upside down. Two holes equal and opposite to driveshaft get one BB each. Third hole is the loner. Drop the brass washer in first. Then spring. Then BB on top. Use a dab of vaseline or marine grease to hold BB in place. Lower lower body onto gear plate. Squeeze firmly with one hand while using a nutdriver to tighen a bolt with other.


Note - they aren't BB's. At a minimum use steel ball bearings. Precision stainless if you can since they are for fluid seal in a marine part.

Note - your pressure is set by shimming. do not change the springs or number of shims at any location unless you have the ability to measure and adjust pressure.

Note - don't ever, ever, ever take apart the top half of valve body at home. Only about half the people who try it are able to get their pump going again. If you do take it apart, then wait until after you have tried every other possibility first.

 

[87force125]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

im thinkin that that port trim down BB isnt centred right didnot place it in the cap besides that every thing looks like its in the right spot as for the direction mess up it looks like i might have turned the pump 90 degrese clockways that might be why the poles are backwards i did notice that one of the lower check valves is a tiny bit smaller than the other im also getting a grinding noise now im gonna take it back off and recheck it here in a few days

 

[RRitt]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

there are 5 different styles of check valves in three different sizes that I have seen. But I have never, ever seen a single pump that uses two different sizes at once. On some the front valve had a screwdriver fitting and you could turn to release pressure. Some of the 1970 check valves are not repairable and occaisionally you'll see a 1970's pump with a 1980's check valve in the front. Other than those two exceptions the front and rear should be identical.

If you tightened the assembly with a ball bearing out of socket then you may have ruined it. Very often the indentation form misaligned bearings will cause an indent in gear plates that allows bearings to become lodged with pressure. When this happens they fail to function and pump won't work. There are fixes but they vary by degree and location of deformity.

It should not be possible for ball bearing to be on hole but not centered. They self center. It is possible to score or damage the pressure control valve so that ball bearing never seats. When bad enough the pump can not generate enough pressure to lift system.

grinding noises are never good. from motor it usually means magnet problems and motor should be immediately removed from service and rebuilt before the magnets fracture. If the magnet fractures then getting 100% good motor for under $100 is no longer possible. If grinding from valve body then unit should be imediately removed from service and rebuilt. If the gears become chipped or broken then new gear plate & gears are required. Finding the matching upper plate to your existing lower body might be impossible and you may end up buying whole new valve body.

 

[87force125]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

took the pump apart again tonight the magnet was cracked i was able to reglue it and it spins with out any noise now re checked the springs and bbs every thing looks good i should have the right direction now up is up and down is down pump is mounted just have to fill and bleed it tommrow going fishin with a buddy in his new ranger so it isnt a priority lol if it doesnt work time to find another one thanks for everyones help on this topic

 

[87force125]

Re: 87 Force 125 valve body help

UPDATE filled it up every thing works good now lucked out