54 johnson 3hp

fred3

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Oct 9, 2021
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Was given a 3hp jw10 ser# 1136868. been on barn wall for 40 years. Just messing with it. no spark. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I know very little about these old gals. Very simple but before I get at it I thought some of you could share whatever you can that might help me and speed this up. I will never use it but always have to see if I can make an engine run. It's a disease that sucks my money like a cancer. So hoping for things that I won't have to buy that will work.
 

Crosbyman

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racerone

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Pull the flywheel off.------The coils will be cracked.-----Total repair of the magneto.-----Use a puller with 3 bolts 1/4-20NC thread.
 

fred3

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I appreciate the info. They were both very well done had even the part#s Thanks man, you really saved time for me on this one. Now can you tell me where to get the 100.bucks to get the parts.
 

Crosbyman

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don't assume all is bad till you look inside. but probably does have bad coils after 40 y.

a $100 is waste if you plan to hang it up another 40 years in a barn and look at it but if you want to go fishing , give it to the kids or grand children go for it.

Fishing....best to encourage good habits in kids before they develop bad habits

$100 is cheaper than taxes on a new motor.

finding $100....
put $2 a week in a piggy bank and fix it next year :) and you will have $4
to spare for half a gallon of gas. 25/ 1 oil is cheap.
 

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440roadrunner

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Most old OMC's all need pretty much the same thing, assuming the rings/ bores aren't worn badly, or water intrusion into the cylinders/ crankcase, or damage to reeds, etc

If new enough (about the model year in this thread) to have the "newer" epoxy coils from then into the 70's, THEY WILL be cracked open of not having been replaced some later

At the present time, the only source I know of for "having a chance" at getting quality coils is the branded (not copies) Sierra Marine. There are some Chinese importers on eBay that are junk. They do not output anywhere near the spark energy of the originals

Regardless of what you read on the internet, you CAN NOT test condensers without a high voltage cap checker. HIGH VOLTAGE. So replace them and be prepared to replace one of them again, LOL (New does not mean functional)

May or may not need points and plug wires

Clean/ rebuilt the carb, and some can be tough, if internal passages get gummed up enough. Getting quality parts is getting tougher

Lower unit. Try to check it before you turn it over much, as if it's been sitting awhile, the water in the oil will separate and go to the bottom. You can get a "feel" for how much is there. If it's just a few drips, you might gamble on changing oil, run it part of a season, and re-check for "color." I have two motors which get by fine all season. They are not absolutely water tight, but not enough to worry about

If the motor has an oil filled gearbox, and not the older greased one, learn to rig up something to pressure test it.

Lots of parts--generally--are available on Ebay. Get yourself a service manual and parts list, although you can download most of a parts list on the 'net. usually

For me, "essential tools" are a spark gap checker such as Lisle, a standard automotive harmonic balancer puller, and a good strap wrench. SET POINTS by the timing marks and not by points gap. You can do this with the flywheel if you are patient, I use a timing tool and mag timer.

On some outboards like the 40hp, my timing tool does not fit, so I use a straightedge and "extend" the timing marks out to the outer edge of the wheel so I can see them better, "scribe"

You can also re-check them with a timing light/ external battery.
 

Crosbyman

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Jw are nice little kickers very easy to service if not mistreated .
point opennings can be set at the highest point of the cam lobe at 0.020 openning and it should run fine. Add one-two drop of oil on the cam rub felt
the idle circuit on the carb has a side channel from the bottom half to the top half... the side channel hasa very small openning to be cleaned . if it does not run well the top idle drip chamber may be crudded up and needs to be openned up and cleaned (2-3 small drip holes under the dime size plug.) reinstall a cover pull and tap in place not to hard with a punch .
I seal the rim with fingernail polish .

see old style carb... same principle
 

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fred3

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ok gentleman. Thanks to all for your input. Crosby your financial advise is as good as your tech help lol. So I had to know and pulled the flywheel and to my surprise everything has been replaced. It all looks brand new. However in the process I found the coil pickups were actually rubbing. One on each. reset these and still no spark. Now to test all the components. As stated we all have gotten coils etc that don't work out of the box. I will follow procedure from tutorials and let you guys know what I find.
 

fred3

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Later that same day. Removed coils. Multi meter reads .7 to .9 on green and black leads, with a little up and down. Plug wire peg reads 4.54 on both coils. Checking coils part # is 512154. my research shows these fit 1957 5 1/2 hp. I would think they would at least throw a spark of some kind. Unless other things are wrong as well. So what do you think. Can't check condensers cause no high voltage checker. All electrical parts have a M stamped in them. Some M have a circle around it. Anyone know what that stands for. Sounds like i am back to square one. If wrong coils maybe the rest are wrong as well. Although points and condensers are pretty much the same for a lot of these motors.
 

Crosbyman

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your coils measure ok and should fire...
condensers likely not to good but more important is dressing the contact area of the points and wiring the coils to the correct points :)

measure secondaty (HV) windings from plug boot to engine frame ..should be 4-7 Kohms

could also be bad plugs ....poke a screwdriver in the boots and hold near the engine body about .25 inch while pulling the starter cord ... get 2 more hands

unless you have a HV tester all you can do is measure caps for internal shorts and uf value if you have NNF or UF meter capable...IF shorted dispose and replace
 

fred3

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Oct 9, 2021
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I thought the M meant they were OEM, but wasn't sure. If I understand your saying the coils are good? The other thing I saw which i forgot to mention. I noticed taking coils off that the black wire was under the screw on the opposite side of coil as the the one in the tutorial. I don't see how this would matter, but There is usually a reason things are where they are. It is just the ground wire. Right?
 

Crosbyman

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black is ground I normally install it on the top rear bolt...the long one that ties into the ring under the mag plate. to enure a solid ground scrape any paint near the bolt head and I install a star washer
 
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