5.7 EFI won’t turn over

Tunabass

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Turn key and nothing, no click, no gauge activation, nothing. The rest of the dash panel is getting power it’s gotta be electrical going to the key right?
 

Tunabass

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My ignition has three wires. Purple, yellow/red and red/blue. All have 12 volts even with battery off. On it’s the same thing. Yesterday I was getting random alarm at the same time I’d loose 500 RPMs for half a second. Then it alarmed and stalled. 100%?electrical but everything else on the boat works.
 

alldodge

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Turn key and nothing, no click, no gauge activation, nothing. The rest of the dash panel is getting power it’s gotta be electrical going to the key right?

No gauges but rest of helm. If rest of the helm is things like fish finders, blower, check your the 15 or 20 amp ignition fuse.

Check to see if there is 12V on the red/purple going to the key switch. If there is no power then its most likely the fuse/breaker
 

Tunabass

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20 amp fuse is good. And I have power to all three wires of the ignition and yes everything else on the boat, blower, electronics, lights etc…. After the fuse all wires go into the main harness one goes up inside throttle. Cannon plugs all inspected snd look fine.
 

alldodge

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The purple goes to the kill switch in the throttle handle. If it is pulled there will be no power to the gauges or motor
The yellow/red goes to neutral safety switch and then to starter solenoid

Normally when the kill switch is pulled or bad, there is no power to gauges, but you can still crank the motor, it just won't start
 

Tunabass

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My ignition has a red/purple that is fused and connects to a larger red/purple before going into the harness. The ignition also has a yellow/red wire that goes into the throttle. Then the ignition has a purple wire that goes into the harness.
 

Tunabass

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Yes that looks like it. Are all the circles fuses? What do you recommend I check now? It did this a few years ago (alarm) not failure to start and my mechanic said he just tightened some things up and it stopped. (For about 6 months)
 

Tunabass

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Anyone think it could be an internal ignition switch thing? I’m getting 12.5 volts to it.
 
Last edited:

Tunabass

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Jun 29, 2017
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There is no continuity between one side of the ignition fuse and the other. There is continuity from red ignition wire to the side that connects to one side of the fuse. Does that mean there is a break further down inside the harness????
 

Tunabass

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With fuse in their is continuity behind dash at least till all wires entire harness.
 

alldodge

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Sorry been driving
There is no continuity between one side of the ignition fuse and the other

The fuse is blown.
You should have 12V on both sides of the fuse, otherwise its blown
 

Tunabass

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Sorry been driving


The fuse is blown.
You should have 12V on both sides of the fuse, otherwise its blown
I mis spoke. I tested the fuse itself for continuity and it was fine. I meant to say with out the fuse in place I could not get continuity from one side of fuse holder to the other. But when fuse installed I had continuity from ignition switch to past the fuse so that’s not the issue. I’m lost for ideas….
 

alldodge

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If I'm understanding correctly
Power to all 3 wires but nothing is working. I would start looking at grounds.

The ground cable from battery to engine block, then the 10 pin engine connector connector
 

Bt Doctur

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And I have power to all three wires of the ignition

Not possible , if that was true you would be running, with started engaged
 
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