1999 Crestliner FishHawk 1750 Restoration

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
Ok, Let's Go! Here is a new to me FishHawk. I was looking for some time for the fishing boat project.
Main criterias were solid hull, wide body (90 inches plus), length of 17+, side console.
This boat will be used for fishing (casting, trolling, jigging).
This boat was purchased for 4750 Canadian dollars. It has rotten floors and transom, engine in unknown condition, busted trolling motor. So pretty much compete gut is required.
Since getting the boat, I have focused on the motor to understand its condition. So the trim motor was not working, lower part of motor shaft was rusted and needs replacement. Engine attempted to start when spraing gas in the carb. Compression was good and even across all 3 cylinders. So I think I will leave the engine for now and will call it questionably running.
 

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
So, is the picture upload gone completely? It is difficult to run the post without being able to upload pictures. 😞
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
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There are 3 pix posting topics here
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,876
Looks to me you have a good starting base, with some time and effort you should end up with a nice boat. Looking forward to your progress.
 

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
Does anyone know a good source for marine switches? I have looked at Amazon and they are all different. Current switches are tired-looking and I would like to add few more for interior lights and for music.
 

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
Yesterday got good progress on the demo. Rear casting platform is taken apart, side boxes are disassembled. Dashboard is also taken apart. I think I will keep majority of the wiring, as it looks to be in a good shape.
I have pressure washed internals as well.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,733
Don't cheap out on switches. Get Carling marine switches.
Buy here in the iboats store or at Great Lakes Skipper.
 

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
So, over the last few days the old carpet was removed from the sides and floor was removed as well.
The carpet was a huge struggle and lots of elbow grease. I have figured out that gas dissolves it best but still slow. Also the heat gun and scraper work well on the thicker areas.
Question for you, experts. I have checked few areas of the foam under the floor and most of it looks dry. There are few areas (under the seat mounts) where foam is saturated in water. I do not think they are huge, but I would still like to cut them out and fix. Can I use any of big box store foam to full in the gaps? I can buy the whole proper kit for about 120 dollars, but I do not think I need that much.

 

TripleJGraffis

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 18, 2024
Messages
397
So, over the last few days the old carpet was removed from the sides and floor was removed as well.
The carpet was a huge struggle and lots of elbow grease. I have figured out that gas dissolves it best but still slow. Also the heat gun and scraper work well on the thicker areas.
Question for you, experts. I have checked few areas of the foam under the floor and most of it looks dry. There are few areas (under the seat mounts) where foam is saturated in water. I do not think they are huge, but I would still like to cut them out and fix. Can I use any of big box store foam to full in the gaps? I can buy the whole proper kit for about 120 dollars, but I do not think I need that much.

Good morning! If the big box stores sell closed cell foam, then yes, you could go with that. I would personally go with the pourable expanding foam, but I don't know what sizes it comes in or how much you need.
 

jbcurt00

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Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
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24,992
I have checked a few areas of the foam under the floor and most of it looks dry. There are few areas (under the seat mounts) where foam is saturated in water. I do not think they are huge, but.....
Don't be surprised if the foam is wet at the bottom against the hull, even if the top looks/feels dry.

A 2" pvc w saw teeth cut into 1 end makes a good core drill for foam. Drill 6+ holes and remove foam from hole, is any sample wet? , Then wait 24hrs see if water collects in a hole.

Lots of boats look/feel dry that aren't. Dig thru the resto & starcraft forums, examples of minimal removal of foam turning to full blown guts.

$200 to do a full foam gut is worth it IMO for piece of mind....
 

ozenine

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
346
Don't be surprised if the foam is wet at the bottom against the hull, even if the top looks/feels dry.

A 2" pvc w saw teeth cut into 1 end makes a good core drill for foam. Drill 6+ holes and remove foam from hole, is any sample wet? , Then wait 24hrs see if water collects in a hole.

Lots of boats look/feel dry that aren't. Dig thru the resto & starcraft forums, examples of minimal removal of foam turning to full blown guts.

$200 to do a full foam gut is worth it IMO for piece of mind....
Thank you, I did that yesterday and with exception of 2 6x6 inch areas that had wet foam on the bottom (which I have removed) the foam is dry.
This is very surprizing given that the boat was without cover for some time.
I have found LePage gap filling foam at the Orange store that is closed cell and will fix the holes that I have made.

I am debating if I should replace the hoses (livewell, bilge) while I am here. Original look to be in a great shape, no cracks, still flexible. Where do I even get these hoses (they are rubber)? What do you guys think?

Next step would be building engine stand and removal of the engine.
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,299
I got my switches from New Wire Marine. Very pleased with the way my dash came out.
 
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