1992 E10RELENA won't go over 3k

[gooden123]

I'm having a high speed issue with a 1992 9.9 Evinrude (E10RELENA). Won't go over 3k. Instead of getting into what all I've done so far, just know I've been a marine mechanic for 15 years so it's nothing obvious like fuel, carb, spark, compression, linkage etc. Now I'm not too familiar with small outboards. Obviously the stator should be replaced regardless (see picture) but I'm not convinced it's my issue since I've never touched anything besides the carb and plugs and therefore this has been pinched years ago before I even owned it and running fine since. 2 wires are yellow with a blue tracer, the crimped is solid yellow. What does that do? If it's just for charging the battery then I'm going to solder it till the new one comes in and keep diagnosing. If it's for charging ignition, then it may be my issue and has just finally failed. I will still solder it but take it to the lake and see what happens. Thank you

 

[racerone]

The yellow wires are for the battery charging !!----Sounds like the motor is running on one cylinder.-----Motor needs 4 things to run.-----Fuel.----Compression.----Spark at the right time.------Crankcase compression.------Crankcase compression is not easy to diagnose for a novice.------Check for a broken reed valve.------Check flywheel key too.----Just finished a complete overhaul of a 1992 model 15 HP and I know these motors inside out !!

 

[gooden123]

The yellow wires are for the battery charging !!----Sounds like the motor is running on one cylinder.-----Motor needs 4 things to run.-----Fuel.----Compression.----Spark at the right time.------Crankcase compression.------Crankcase compression is not easy to diagnose for a novice.------Check for a broken reed valve.------Check flywheel key too.----Just finished a complete overhaul of a 1992 model 15 HP and I know these motors inside out !!

No offense taken but just not sure what a novice is? Novice with this particular engine? Sort of. But I've been a marine mechanic for probably the biggest service center in the United States since 2006 so I'm pretty up to date on things like fuel, spark, compression, timing...Just don't mess with little OMC 2 strokes much other than my personal boats and never had issues with any of them other than dirty carbs. Reeds are a possibility but I don't have any spit back or anything weird. Can't check timing till I get my light from the shop Tuesday but I've never touched any adjustments so not totally sure what would throw that off. Spark is strong. Compression 120 on both. Carb rebuilt twice now (once Sierra kit, now OEM). Float is set correctly. If I pull one plug wire at a time while running it really falls on its face so they're both doing something. I'm totally lost. Going to crank it over after dark and see if anything is arcing otherwise I have to think you're right about a reed issue. Thanks!

 

[racerone]

Some simple trouble shooting will find the issue.----Also check flywheel key ( timing )-----And no you can not find a sheared key with a timing light.----Good luck with it.

 

[gooden123]

I can go more in dellgh

Some simple trouble shooting will find the issue.----Also check flywheel key ( timing )-----And no you can not find a sheared key with a timing light.----Good luck with it.

Thanks again!

 

[tphoyt]

A sheared key will throw your timing off.
I have to say any advice givin by Racerone is well worth investigating. Has this been a problem since the carb rebuild or was it running fine at some point and then started giving you problems?

 

[gooden123]

A sheared key will throw your timing off.
I have to say any advice givin by Racerone is well worth investigating. Has this been a problem since the carb rebuild or was it running fine at some point and then started giving you problems?

Sorry I'm just seeing this! It has been running great since February. And fine one day, and not the very next from the beginning. I'm going to pull the flywheel next and check the key. I just soaked the carb, put an OEM carb kit, ran it on a new tank/line/bulb. Still won't go over 3k. Doesn't seem to matter if under load either. I held the butterfly wide open and still won't go past 3k. I know the timing isn't advancing when I do that but still makes me wonder if it isn't a timing issue

 

[tphoyt]

Just for kicks take a look at the cam roller to be sure it doesn’t have a flat spot or grove worn into it.

 

[gooden123]

Just for kicks take a look at the cam roller to be sure it doesn’t have a flat spot or grove worn into it.

The roller looks good as new. No grooves. I had to get 1/4-20 bolts for my puller and it got dark on me but here's the flywheel key. I don't think it's sheared but looks pretty flat. I'll replace it

 

[racerone]

There is nothing wrong with that key.-----Remember that key locates the flywheel for correct timing.----The flywheel is driven by the locking tapers !----Same flywheel key on a 9.9 as on a 300 HP motor.

 

[gooden123]

There is nothing wrong with that key.-----Remember that key locates the flywheel for correct timing.----The flywheel is driven by the locking tapers !----Same flywheel key on a 9.9 as on a 300 HP motor.

Thanks. Well I'm back to square one. Now with an OEM kit and everything before the fuel inlet fitting on the motor replaced. I know without a DVA I'm limited on testing ignition but everything I could ohm is within spec. What's funny is this thread is exactly 100% my engine and issue. Same year, hp, even remote control. But 4 pages later he had the 15 jet. My jet is correct (34).

9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

I've got a 1992 Evinrude 9.9 electric start remote controlled engine. I have been battling and battling this motor. I finally got the thing to idle and run consistantly, but it won't go over 3000 RPM in forward gear with full throttle. I've insured that all the linkage is correct. The roller...

forums.iboats.com

I'll post a couple pictures of some things with the carb I've found which could be issues, but I doubt it because all this stuff has been like that and the engine hasn't missed a beat

 

[gooden123]

This has a hairline crack above the barb for idle tube. It doesn't appear to be all the way thru and it's been like that since I rebuilt it back in February. Only thing I can do for now is try to repair it as the part is NLA. I have some shops looking for a good used one in their stash. I can't get a picture of this without taking the carb back off but one of the top plate screws bosses is actually thru the throat/bore of the carb body. Again I don't think that's right, but it's been like that since I bought it and it's ran fine. I can temporarily patch the hole and see if that makes a difference. Don't see either of these pretty existing things causing a 2,000 rpm loss out of nowhere

 

[gooden123]

These plugs have about 15 minutes on them. Could it be carbon build up in the cylinders?

 

[racerone]

Post picture of the black plastic throttle cam that pushes on the roller assembly.------Motor needs 4 things to run.------Correct amount of air and fuel,-----Crankcase compression in both crankcases.----Spark at the right time.-----Compression in the cylinders.-----Some simple trouble shooting will find the answers.----No , it is not an issue with carbon in the cylinders!

 

[gooden123]

Post picture of the black plastic throttle cam that pushes on the roller assembly.------Motor needs 4 things to run.------Correct amount of air and fuel,-----Crankcase compression in both crankcases.----Spark at the right time.-----Compression in the cylinders.-----Some simple trouble shooting will find the answers.----No , it is not an issue with carbon in the cylinders!

Thanks. I'm really reaching on what it could it be. Compression is 120 on both. I'm having my big boat hauled out to do zines and a couple things on the bottom but I'll post pics of that when I get home later. In the meantime I already have this with the condensation and kind of shows that piece

 

[racerone]

That cam is known to break.----But your is still in one piece.----Simple trouble shooting must be done.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

so did you do the obvious... squirt fuel mix into the carb venturi when it was stuck at 3,000 rpm?

 

[gooden123]

That cam is known to break.----But your is still in one piece.----Simple trouble shooting must be done.

Still need to put a timing light on it but I think it's just not advancing. I can get the same 3000 rpm by putting it in gear and opening the throttle plate with my finger. No difference. It is synced properly with the cam follower hash mark and cam roller. Butterfly isn't over rotating..not much you can adjust outside of that for WOT

 

[oldboat1]

got the right tach, set correctly? A photo sensor tach would measure rotations of just about anything, and could serve as a check or backup.

(btw, those plugs look pretty banged up on closeup. Got the right ones? possibly reach is too long.)

 

[gooden123]

got the right tach, set correctly? A photo sensor tach would measure rotations of just about anything, and could serve as a check or backup.

(btw, those plugs look pretty banged up on closeup. Got the right ones? possibly reach is too long.)

The tach is set correctly. Even if it wasn't I have went from going 14 mph to 6. The plugs are correct and I've tried both recommended champions. I (properly) synced the carb to the timing which was way off (set too advanced in neutral) and ran it again but no difference whatsoever. I worked the carb butterfly with my finger while the control was just dropped in forward gear and it ran exactly the same with just the butterfly held wide open and no timing advanced as it would working in harmony. I didn't replace the plugs however and that's only because I didn't have a new set and was in a hurry. I'm going to try the NGK equivalent of QL82C (.030 gap out of the box which is recommended. QL77JC4 are .040 and I've tried multiple sets of each). On older 9.9 Evinrudes I've seen where NGK made all the difference but I'm doubtful. Can't hurt either. Maybe I have weak spark so if the new plugs don't fix it, I'll check the ignition components with a DVA (already Ohmed what I could). Also need to make sure nothing got in my exhaust. Critters I mean. This engine has never touched bottom let alone been thru mud.