1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

Darren b

Seaman
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Apr 19, 2012
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61
Hey guys I am almost ready to start installing wood in my boat, it ended up that not only the deck but the stringers, motor mount and transom was starting to rot. I got all the parts out but i left one stringer intack to use as a jig then once my first new stringer is in I will take the second one out and use my first new one as a jig to help in keeping them close to factory. my first question is when cutting my stringers out I left about a 1/2" of a slot in the hull where my old stringer was, can I leave that to use as a slot to place my new stringer in and glass over it? thanks
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
Messages
2,722
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

I'm curious why the new thread?

Grind off the old glass....the trouble with leaving it is you won't be able to clean in the slot good enough to get a proper bond. You will need to grind all the old glass off and about 8-10 inches on both sides....precoat all stringers with resin,bed the stringers shimmed 1/8-1/4" off the hull in PL adhesive,fillet the sides of the stringers with PB (peanut butter resin,cabosil and 1/4" chopped fibers) Then tab stringers to hull with 1.5oz csm 4" on stringer 4" on hull....then repeat with 6" each way then full 1708 biax...top of stringer 8" on hull.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

hi darren......the stringers in the 91's were engeneered stringers.

they were glass over foam, and dont need to be replaced....even if the foam core was wet.

there were some plants that did not convert yet.....but for the most part, the had them.

cut out the hollow channels....

you can not get a good bond to the wood with the old glass.
 

Darren b

Seaman
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Apr 19, 2012
Messages
61
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

I guess I should of stuck with the old thread, I thought I would start fresh for the installing part. My 91 Bayliner has the wood strigers oops, it would be nice if it would of had the foam type. I am going to post a pic of my hull were the old stringer was beacuse for a run of about 4 to 5 feet in the middle of the hull the stringer was sunk way down into what looks like the side keel in the bottom of the hull. So even if I grind the old glass of it looks like I will still have that 4 to 5 foot run were the new stringer will be recessed into the hull. could I fill that slot with somthing to bring it flush with the hull then run my new stringer? let me know if I am explianing myself enough, and if not I will get some pics posted. Thanks guys.
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

oops! will merge the threads ;) I guess your saying the stringer is part of the chine. Running along the outer edge of the hull where the angle of the V flattens out and changes pitch.
 

Darren b

Seaman
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Apr 19, 2012
Messages
61
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

here is a pic of the stringer slot like I said how it is notched into the hull. what is best to do here grind old glass flush with hull and fill notch with glass and run stringer over, or run stringer down into notch and glass over. thanks



DSC00725.jpg
 

rickryder

Commander
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Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

Can you take a shot of the outside of the hull.
 

Darren b

Seaman
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Apr 19, 2012
Messages
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Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

here is a pic of the bottom of the hull, the slot under the stringer I am talking about must ride into the side keels in the pic. hope this helps thanks

DSC00738.jpg
 

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

i have the same boat and doing the same work, and i ground that off completely and then suspended my new stringers into place and filled the gap with PB and then used fresh glass to tab them in
 

Darren b

Seaman
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Apr 19, 2012
Messages
61
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

So you left the gap and cleaned it really good and filled it? what kind of gap did you leave between the new stringer and the hull? another question, why do you leave a gap between the hull and stringer? thanks
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

the stringers do not sit directly on the hull. this would cause a hard joint.

a hard joint will cause the gellcoat to spider crack around the stringers, as the glass will flex more than the stringer it self.

i use pop sicle sticks to suspend the stringers above the hull......then bed with peanut butter.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

The gap should have been temporary, the new wooden stringer should not be installed directly onto the hull, leave a small 1/4" gap under them. This gap is then filled w/ PB (peanut butter like consistency poly resin & fillers (NOT TALC, it absorbs water, use cabosil, chopped &/or milled fibers, which fillers & combinations of fillers depend on the job at hand & the strength needed and ease of sanding needed) and a small rounded cove is created along the edge of the stringer to leave a rounded surface to make tabbing the stringer to the hull w/ fiberglass CSM (chopped strand mat) much easier.

Without the 1/4" gap, the wood stringer would be in contact w/ the hull, and underway or while on the trailer, those hard surface wooden stringers create a hard edge that is not flexible. The fiberglass hull will flex, if only to a small degree, and over time those flexing cycles will generate stress cracks along the outside of the hull, opposite the stringer. The PB under the stringer & made into a cove, along w/ the fiberglass tabbing, all help spread that load across a much larger area, reducing the hard edges & providing more strength.

Look thru the hull extension thread in oops' signature line &/or the link he posted earlier. It has a handy index on pg1 that will help you get a better idea of the how & why. Look for friscoboaters YouTube channel & both his threads @iBoats, they have tons of helpful info too, as well as videos that help make sense of what your reading/learning. WoodOnGlass has some really great layouts & layup schedules for stringers, transom & deck work on fiberglass boats in his signature line too.

Spend some time reading thru oops' & other threads, although no fun whatsever, the demo phase is easy, just be sure to keep & maintain lots of photos & measurements for the put back. The put back is all together different, and although not particularly hard, it requires a much firmer idea of how, where & why each step is done, and done in an orderly fashion. Otherwise poor decisions now, lead to less then satisfactory outcomes & may require rework or be completely redone again sooner then later....IMHO...

Hope your stay in dry dock is short, and she's back in the water soon.....
 
Last edited:

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

So you left the gap and cleaned it really good and filled it? what kind of gap did you leave between the new stringer and the hull? another question, why do you leave a gap between the hull and stringer? thanks

i think the other two covered it. there are a ton of helpful people on this forum so dont hesitate to ask any questions. also if you watch friscoboater's videos on his searay build i think they will really help you. i learned allot and it made me much more comfortable taking this project on. here is a link to the videos:

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL02C318B574CD948D&feature=plcp
 

Darren b

Seaman
Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
61
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

thanks guys for the help, So before I get started on it, should I fill the keel gap under the stringer with PB or somthing else? Where is a good place to buy these products for doing my work, A marine store? I have looked at local body shops and have not found nothing thanks Darren
 

bleedblue94

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 11, 2010
Messages
272
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

thanks guys for the help, So before I get started on it, should I fill the keel gap under the stringer with PB or somthing else? Where is a good place to buy these products for doing my work, A marine store? I have looked at local body shops and have not found nothing thanks Darren

you can use PL adhesive but PB is ideal
 

93bayliner1800

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
239
Re: 1991 Bayliner stringer, transom, deck install

Look up www.compositesone.com I found a supplier an hr from me so saved on hazmat fees. PB is def the way to go. I would mix a quart at a time and put into a ziplock bag cut the corner off and squeeze it under the stringer. I made my fillets as I went. The better the fillet the easier the tabbing. A large metal spoon dipped into acetone and wiped clean often will give you a really smooth finish to your fillets.
 
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