1990 Bayliner 2651 resto

Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
151
A bit more progress on the pulpit. Made the inner plywood piece to fit. The second will be much easier.
Thanks kcassels for the input on the order of how to rebuild.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.

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Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
151
Update 12-5
completed initial tabbing in transom. Hoping for another warm day to get the first complete layer of 1700 over the transom. Still looking for suggestions regarding the compound corners and how to get the glass mat to sit well on these areas. Most transom replacements I see are all just flat pieces that don’t have complex corners.
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also making progress on the pulpit. Inner core pieces are made and wetted. I put one layer of 1700 down since some spider cracks appeared on the inside. Filled old holes with thickened epoxy.
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,174
Couple of ways to skin that cat.
1. Use a lower 0z. cloth to make the bends.
2. Go with the 17 oz and tap on the bends with an object to soften the glass to laydown.
3. Slightest of bevels to on edge to have the glass make the turns.
Def. clean up all those edges in any event. Wet the crap out of the wood and let dry before glassing.
Make sure you keep the tolerances need for the inny/outty.
 

tpenfield

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
16,075
Update 12-5
completed initial tabbing in transom. Hoping for another warm day to get the first complete layer of 1700 over the transom. Still looking for suggestions regarding the compound corners and how to get the glass mat to sit well on these areas. Most transom replacements I see are all just flat pieces that don’t have complex corners

also making progress on the pulpit. Inner core pieces are made and wetted. I put one layer of 1700 down since some spider cracks appeared on the inside. Filled old holes with thickened epoxy.
I've had success covering the glassed area with 0.7 mil plastic (drop cloth) material and massaging it smooth. If it is not the top coat, you could use some peel ply and then the drop cloth to cover it.

For the bow pulpit . . . it is a good size to use vacuum bagging once you get the resin applied.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,174
I've had success covering the glassed area with 0.7 mil plastic (drop cloth) material and massaging it smooth. If it is not the top coat, you could use some peel ply and then the drop cloth to cover it.

For the bow pulpit . . . it is a good size to use vacuum bagging once you get the resin applied.
Hmmmmmmm....Ted is the man for vacuum bagging. Me and most stick to the old sticky fashion way. Ted did a "MOST AWESOME" vacuum project on one of his threads. I'll never find it though.
See if @mickyryan can dig up his posts for you. I can't keep up with him and the number of boats he's floated.
 

Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
151
Thanks guys! All great ideas. I’ll do some experimenting before doing the first full layer.

kcassels…..the pics of the transom are the before I sanded the crap out of them. its all smooth now. Question- Why do I wet out and let dry? Shouldn’t the next layer go over an abraded surface?
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,174
Thanks guys! All great ideas. I’ll do some experimenting before doing the first full layer.

kcassels…..the pics of the transom are the before I sanded the crap out of them. its all smooth now. Question- Why do I wet out and let dry? Shouldn’t the next layer go over an abraded surface?
Nah...a lot of guys miss the language thingy here. So the cuts into the ply on edge are exposed and also voids show up.
At this point those areas are like sponges to water/moisture and typically will be one of the first areas to rot after all that hard work.
You will want to fill the voids with what works for you, pb is good and triple soak the edges and let dry. Basically, you are sealing your wood from intrusion/water. After that then glass ahoy!
You want to do this to all your woods, edges and flat Plys prior to glassing.
Great question, keep em coming!
Oh yea prior to glass, scuff up a little and wipe down with acetone for adherence.
Also, raw ply if glassed will SUCK OUT the glue and adhesion is 0.
 

Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
151
Yes the language thingy has been challenging but I’m getting the hang of it. All plywood was soaked 3 times both flat and edges. It’s crazy how much does soak in.
First layer of ply clamped in…. Lotsa eeeeeepoxy used. Like how it turned out. Kinda like building a cake.😂

next challenge is to get the correct angle on the piece that attaches to the boat. The original had tapered plywood ( and poor glassing ). since there’s a slight angle getting, the correct thickness will be hard. Any ideas? I’ve looked at other pulpit rebuilds and they just had one thick piece of 12”x12” ply laminated which wasn’t on an angle. Considering doing the same.
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kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,174
Yes the language thingy has been challenging but I’m getting the hang of it. All plywood was soaked 3 times both flat and edges. It’s crazy how much does soak in.
First layer of ply clamped in…. Lotsa eeeeeepoxy used. Like how it turned out. Kinda like building a cake.😂

next challenge is to get the correct angle on the piece that attaches to the boat. The original had tapered plywood ( and poor glassing ). since there’s a slight angle getting, the correct thickness will be hard. Any ideas? I’ve looked at other pulpit rebuilds and they just had one thick piece of 12”x12” ply laminated which wasn’t on an angle. Considering doing the same.
View attachment 373437View attachment 373438
What is the angle for? Just to keep water from settling on it?
 

todhunter

Canoeist
Joined
Sep 15, 2020
Messages
1,058
If you've got a router you could build something like the fixture I used to make scarf joints for my stringers. It let's you router a very shallow angle into a piece of plywood. Just Google or YouTube "scarf joint fixture".
 
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