1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggestions?

pooh_b_21632

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Ok I have a 1990-1994 Force 120hp outboard, I am not sure on the year as the tag plate is gone, previous owner unsure of year as he was not the original owner, and local shop narrowed it down to 1990-1994 from part numbers. Anyway ran great last year when I bought it. Last time we had it out it died in the river 10 feet from the ramp and we coasted in dead battery. It was late in the year so we did not replace the batterys and take it out anymore. This season added seafoam to the gas tank (it had stabil in it over the winter) two new batteries, new plugs, and took it out. Started great at the ramp got about a mile out and it started to get hotter than normal (new impeller last july) so I shut it down to let it cool not wanting to cause any damage, sat for about 1/2 hour and it was horrible to get started cranked and cranked no start, hubby pulled the cowl and adjusted idle screw (we have to start in neutral and dont have a high rev). Still no start. Took about 20 minutes to get it going and would not idle had to put it in gear soon as it started to keep going, got dark so back to the ramp and home. Next time out didnt go far 1/2 a mile or so up the river slight misfiring at higher RPMs but we found a school of fish so we anchored and fished then started the motor up after sitting for several hours fired right up, to the ramp and home. Read lots of forums about the rough running and misfiring and talked to lots of people and I was lead in the direction of the ethanol deteriorating the lines and sucking shut. So we changed the fuel lines, primer bulb, and new fuel/water separator. Back on the river running better ran about 3 miles down the river and went down towards idle, motor died gas coming out the carb butterflys would not start and my brother in law had to tow us in. So we rebuild both carbs needle jet was stuck on one thus the flooding out the butterfly figured we had it fixed filled a bucket in the yard to run it the yard and would not fire, lean sneeze/cold sneeze but could not get it to start, but starts on the muffs with a slight misfire even at idle. back to the forums/local people and rebuild the fuel pump starving for fuel thus the misfire. Runs good on the muffs starts fine but still with the misfire. Decided to do a compression test (never had a problem before). #1-135, #2-125, #3-25, #4-125. Tried to fog the third cylinder for a wet test and got 50 then the starter died, replace the starter and retest got 50 so Im like whats up with this thats not enough of a difference to think its stuck rings but maybe, so I read some more talk some more and we decide to pull the head and see whats going on. #3 looks like #'s 1 and 2 slightly dinged like something broke off somewhere and came through there then out the exhaust, and #4 has very very mild pitting like a melted piston from a bad head gasket starting, but it has good compression so I am leaving that alone for now. Anyway the cylinders on all four pistons look pretty great you can still see cross hatches no scratches or any other marks so I am thinking maybe the small dents are old and the engine has been rebuild not that long ago with the same pistons maybe, the rings dont appear to be stuck if you spin the engine until the #3 piston ring is at the exhaust port you can move it with a pick. So we decarbed the heck out of it though all four cylinders looked pretty good. New head gasket torqued it down fires on the muffs still has a misfire will not start in water and were thinking ok maybe the reeds (looks like something got dinged up on the pistons/head breifly) but decided to try spraying seafoam through the carbs for a decarb after about an hour of smoking up the neighborhood recheck compresion and #3 is up to 60 but weve still got a mis. Good spark, new plugs, still low compression (BTW the low compression cylinder is the one that the mechanical fuel pump is on so I think if I can fix the compression the mis will go away). So I figure before shelling big bucks lets pull the reed blocks, they look new nothing broke, chipped or bent, hold it too the light and you cant see past the fingers all is tight none are stuck. I spun the flywheel by hand and hubby inspected the crankshaft nothing there either, So I am still stuck with low compression and no answer. Going to parts store tomorrow to find a fitting for the sparkplug hole for hubbys vaccum guage to see if it leaks at the rings (gonna spin the motor to bring the piston past the ports and pull a vaccum if the rings are bad it wont hold a vaccum, right?) anyway does anyone have any suggestions before I take it to a shop? I like the motor it has been well maintained since my friend got it looks great inside and out very clean and I have maintained it the same since buying it from him I hate to buy another outboard that could have the same problems if I can fix mine for less than a grand. Sorry for the long post but Im lost here. :confused:
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Profile? You might be close to someone who can help.
You've diagnosed the problem.Sounds like a rebuild is in order.
Post some pics of the damage.J
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

I have not diagnosed the problem and at this point with all I have replaced and it did not fix the problem, I am not interested in plucking the pistons out and putting new ones in when they honestly do not look bad at all (see pic, sorry its all I have I used my camera phone and didnt realize how bad the picture was and now the head is back on, this was before decarb). Picture one is a close up of cylinder one there is one tiny ding on the top none on the head, the second picture is all cylinders, cylinder two has like two tiny dings just like number ones and one tiny ding on the head, cylinder three has a tiny ding none on the head, and cylinder four is very mild pitting on the top arch of the piston but not the head (like it was starting to overheat but we shut her down. but they look better than several I saw on Ebay for sale. All rings look tight if you put oil in the cylinder (head off) and spin the motor by hand most of the oil is pushed forward and out just the slick film left on the cylinder walls. Like I said compression on 1,2 and 4 is good. I am going to do a leakdown test then post results, If I have no leakdown on the third cylinder there is no problem with that piston/rings either, then I need to figure out where my compression is going from there.
 

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roscoe

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

(we have to start in neutral and dont have a high rev)

High idle control is built-in to controls, which controls do you have?

would not fire, lean sneeze/cold sneeze but could not get it to start

Again, use the high idle or throttle advance, and set the carbs to spec, plus a quarter turn on the mixture, before trying to start it and tune it.


Cylinder/piston 3 is your problem, take it out.
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Our control (do not know the name) has a neutral safety switch if you turn the key when it is not in clicked into neutral the motor does not crank. Put it in neutral and you can crank the motor. There is no high rev on it either, been that way since brand new according to the previous owner, doesnt look like anything is missing off the control no extra switches or levers anywhere like you see on most, just a pull up lever under the handle to get it out of neutral (like a detank cable on some cars to get it from park you have to push the brake in). Ran great started great last year with this setup.
 

Josh P

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

there is probably a round button at the bottom of the lever. push it in then push the control lever forward that should disconnect the gear control. if you can post a pic of the control box. and also cylinder 3 is the culprit. it probably melted the rings. your gonna have to pull it to fix your problem, or repower it
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Ok so my theory of a leakdown test did not work the way I thought it would but I got the exact same result on all four cylinders. I am not completely sold on the piston/ring being bad. Its not an issue of the time or money to replace it (its less than $100) but I am tired of trying this and that and nothing has fixed it thus far. I can tell you that my lower intake gasket was leaking (found fuel around it) dont know if that could have affected my compression that much, but also found a hole in the rubber line between the two intakes and found one line delaminated on the inside as well. So for now I have decided to replace every rubber line on the engine, replace the intake gaskets, buy 4 new coils (saw some arcing they are 17-20 years old after all) and recheck compression. If that does not straighten her out I will resort to a rebuild.
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

How do I check my fuel pump check valves for proper operation? Can I lose some compression there? I know when we put a new diaphram in it It looked clean and my manual did not specify how to check them, just replace and where I ordered my parts from they could not get the check valves so I left it alone. However we had a squeshy tube on the fuel pump that we did not put back on and then we did our compression test then I noticed air rushing out of that hole where the tube was supposed to go. Now is that air what pulls vacuum on the fuel pump or maybe I have a bad check valve and an losing compression there? any answers. can I just blow air thru the tube that air was coming out of and see if the air goes both ways? It should only come out one way right?
 

jerryjerry05

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

FRom the pic nothing!! Couldn't see well enough to tell.
What did the head gasket look like any burned spots?Any missing pieces?
Some better pics and include the gasket and the head too.J
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

I dont have any other pictures the head is back on the old gasket gone. But the number four cylinder did look like it had begun to leak a little. I have decided out of frustration to save time money and headaches to pull the piston and replace the rings at least I can get a better look at the whole cylinder with the piston out. I just ordered new rings, intake/reed plate gaskets, and four new coils. I didnt want to pull the piston afraid to loose needle bearings (I believe I read there was something like 16) trying to remove the rod bolts and put it back together through the reed opening. Hubby is not so sure on it either. Is it easy to do (I have rebuilt car engines never a boat engine and hubby has not done a boat engine either). Any suggestions on the best way to pull the piston out and put it back in. Is it better to just buy a crankcase gasket too and open the crankcase? what about keeping the needle bearings into the rod and rod cap while putting the piston back into the cylinder.
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Well I was right it was not the rings, a hunk of the back of the number 3 piston is missing. I am just going to look for another engine. I don't have the time or patience to keep messing with this motor. Thanks for trying to help.
 

ben jones

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Jul 31, 2011
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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Have you looked at the diaphram behind the fuel pump?? Before you rebuild look at the gaskets and the diaphram around the fuel pump. I t sounds to me like your not getting suction from your piston to pull the fuel into the pump when you finally do get it started it missed every once in a while because the fuel pressure isnt right. Try getting it running by keeping pressure in the fuel line by hiutting the primer bulb while its running.
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

Thanks Ben but my number three piston is missing a chunk out of it, I have spent half the summer and a bit of money messing with it I am just going to buy another engine, I want to take the kids tubing at least once before the summer is over. BTW I already rebuilt the fuel pump
 

ben jones

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Jul 31, 2011
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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

I know how you feel Ive bought my motor three times with parts I didnt need. Its all part of the motor experience. Are you selling the motor or fixing it?
 

pooh_b_21632

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Re: 1990-1994 Force 120Hp low compression 1 cylinder,obvious things checked, suggesti

I will be selling it for parts to put towards another motor. Lower unit is good, carbs good, reeds look like new, good starter, etc. Actually ran with the messed up piston so makes me leary on buying another used one since Ive only had this one for one year and I feel the damage is old since when I got it I never did a compression test and couldnt get over 4,000 RPMS but it ran pretty good and I didnt know any better. I do now I only paid $500 for the boat and motor and the guy "my friend" came down from $2000 to $500. I just dont have the time for a rebuild.
 
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