Re: 1988 Evinrude 120 hp
Hello;<br />I would stick with fuel a little longer. You own a big looper and it likes fuel, alot. When you rebuilt the entire fuel system, do you mean cleaned carbs, replaced filters, primer bulb, antisyphon valve? <br />Just a couple of ideas, Check and see if all 4 butterfly's are completly closed at idle?<br />are all 4 needle valves open 2 1/2 turns each?(they may want a little more, adjust them equally)<br />When, (If) you remounted the carbs did one of the carb mnt "o" rings get pinched? Have done this myself. You can check by spraying a little carb cleaner around the mount area (easy with the stuff) if you get an rpm change chances are there is a leak. you can check the crankcase half seal the same way, (once again, be easy with the stuff, it contains "0" lubrication.)<br />A rolling idle would lead me to look for a air leak first. This engine could develop a leak in a number of places. Crank seals give it up at times but rule out the easier to check areas first. a top seal would not surprize me. <br />I need to confirm the type of ignition system first by referancing the manual, but I belive it has a stator containing 2 sets of charge coils, one for walm up, one for std timing. usually if you have a problem with one of the 2 sets (generally the latter) it only takes 2 minutes to shift over and very rarely cuts in & out. If you would like you can check these coils with an ohm meter, each has it's own lead, get a manual and follow the test sequence it is not to difficult to do. don't get hung up on having the exact reading the book gives, as long as the values are somewhat in range and equal, chances are your stator is good. To test your power pack you will need a little more equiptment, once again though, once a packs checks out, its out. have a dealer do this part. I would not rule out an ignition problem but I would continue to look for a fuel problem. Just my thought.<br />I hope this helps lead you to your problem.<br />Good Luck, Rob
