1988 4.3l Alpha 1 Shift Cable & Shift Interrupter Switch issues.

Ackevor

Cadet
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
23
Looking to see if this is the right operation for my setup. This is my first boat, engine runs great.

Prior to taking the video I was having issues with the engine stalling when I would go from FWD/REV to Neutral, and if I went from Neutral to Reverse. I adjusted the barrel on the lower shift cable to 6" (it needed moved about 15 turns!) and then adjusted the upper cable to fit the brackets following the service manual. I checked the prop at the 10/N/2 position and it locks as it should at 10/2 and is free with no clanking in Neutral. With it properly adjusted I can shift to Reverse but once I begin to give it any throttle the kill switch activates, nearly for FWD as well.

The upper cable has 3.300" of travel from Full FWD to Full REV. The spec is 2.875-3.125" so I am hoping this is the issue. My lower cable has .400" or so of free play but takes a bit of effort to move it in and out of gear. All bellows were replaced this season by previous owner (possibly shop), but I did notice the clamp on the cable near the out drive isn't clamped properly. Also not sure if it has too much of a bend or if the cable itself was replaced.

I had to adjust the lower bracket stud to the top most position to get it to not clack around when spinning the prop in neutral.

Can anyone provide thoughts as to the next best course of action? I find it incredibly difficult to perform docking maneuvers without the ability to reverse, other than having to start it 3 times to do so anyway :mad-new:.

Short backstory; I got the boat for $1800 with the owner stating it had no quirks or issues other than the spot in the floor between driver and passenger seat needing fixed. Unfortunately when I returned home with it I checked over the fluids and found 2 engine mounting bolts loose. I tightened them up and saw a crack in the fiberglass for the port side, FWD vertical engine mount support. I peeled it back to find wood pulp. Luckily both SBD and the Stern Vertical supports still feel solid. I didn't know a lot going into the purchase but I sure know a lot more now. It will be a winter project for sure with my primary focus surrounding the engine mount replacement :facepalm:.

Anyhow thanks for reading and any help/tips provided.
 

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achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
The adjustable stud is at the top of the slot, it needs to be at the bottom.... (then watch my video, link at the bottom of my signature, on adjusting the system properly....)

Click image for larger version  Name:	Shift.JPG Views:	1 Size:	68.7 KB ID:	10804737

Chris.........
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Youch! That's just WRONG on every level! :eek:

Get that clip off there and use either a standard cable tie doubled over (not TOO tight), or a 'fuel line' cable tie, also not TOO tight. The cable should be straight, and be able to slide through that bellows if it needs to....

Cable.JPG

Chris..........
 

Ackevor

Cadet
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
23
I thought the cable looked wrong at the Stern. I will see what I can do with it.

Also your video is one I referenced and watched several times over, very informative thank you. What I failed to remember was the slot and how it effects reverse... Which is my primary issue. So after work today that and trying to get the bellow clamp off and straighten the cable will be my next move. I'll update tonight so long as it isn't pouring.

Thanks Chris.
 
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Ackevor

Cadet
Joined
Sep 25, 2019
Messages
23
Good news, it works on muffs. Tomorrow I hope to get a chance to test in the water. With the stud at the bottom and control lever in full REV the prop had no engagement. I moved the stud 1/4 from the bottom and it would ratchet and pop out by hand. Moved it to 1/2 way up and the interrupt switch would engage on throttle. Moved it back just enough to prevent the switch from activating in Full Rev. Prop doesn't pop out by hand either so hopefully it is resolved. After removing the busted clamp and adding a zip tie the shifting felt a bit smoother as well.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Something sounds 'off'. The adjustment shouldn't be that 'fine'.

Personally, I'd pull the drive and check for crud build up in the bottom of the slide on the end of the cable. That means removing the black plastic end off the top end of the cable and pulling it out. It might also be crud built up in the bottom of the slide cavity... Likely if one, then the other too.

Pulling the drive is a 5 minute job, so no biggie there. Putting it back on... Yeah, that takes longer, 6 minutes!

Chris....
 
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