1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

jb57coo

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The floor is getting soft at the back of the boat. Before I tear into it, can anyone tell me what to expect? Is there foam under the boards? What kind of project am I getting myself into? If its too much work I may just lay a glassed board on top of the soft area and save the project for another day. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
 

ezeke

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

You should carefully measure back four feet from the transom, and working from the transom move enough wood to test the foam below the boards for water.

It is very possible that you will find the foam saturated. If the foam is wet, it will not and cannot be dried out, but must be removed and replaced. If it is wet against the transom, It will rot out the transom. It will also add a lot of weight in all of the wrong places and cause poor performance.

I removed all of the foam from my Islander from the cabin back with a garden spade. There was no damage to the hull. I got two part foam from a company in Florida and rebuilt the deck.
 

jb57coo

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

Well I was thinking that if this was going to be a major project then I would just wait on this for a while, but know I see that waiting could also be contributing to a greater problem with the transom.

Anything I need to be aware of under the deck? Where is the gas tank(s)? Under the seating in the cuddy cabin, or under this decking? If I need to replace 4 feet of deck with all the foam work too, I'll probably just do it all from the cabin back. Then I will add some seating too. If anyone has some more info about what to expect under this deck, I would welcome the knowledge.
 

ezeke

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

If your tank is 50 Gallons like mine, It is probably right down the center, ending just before the pit, and suspended about 3" below the deck. The tank is all aluminum, about 22" wide if I remember correctly. My boat is the 1983 outboard model. 22'+.

The foam is not around the tank, though; it is separated from the flotation by the stringers which are on each side of the tank about 23"-24" apart.

If you download the 2007 Starcraft Fishing brochure, there are a few pictures on page 5 that show the stringer system fairly well. Nothing has really changed much in terms of the general layout of the Islander superstructure as far as the pictures show.

http://www.starcraftmarine.com/brochure-download.php
 

jb57coo

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

I have a 26' boat, inboard engine with a 100gal gas tank, but I'm sure its probably located in the same area. The pictures were very helpful. Thank you!

Any tips on removing the floorboards without damaging the foam (if its not water saturated)?
 

ezeke

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

Maybe buy a couple of round deck plates and carefully cut round holes to the right size with a saber saw. I left several in my new deck. The small pry out ones only require a 6" diameter cut, adequate to go through the foam with a hand drywall saw.

They cost about $13.00 at the boating chain stores. Or order from iboats here:

http://www.iboats.com/mall/?keyword...020552124&session_id=196973973&view_id=131120

BTW, If I had found the foam OK in mine, I would have put another layer of marine plywood over the old.

I also looked at Diamond Plate Aluminum for a new deck. I wish now that I had used it. It is a little pricey, but will last forever, very strong, much lighter than wood, no maintenance, blah, blah - Would have, could have, should have.8)
 

jb57coo

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

Excellent idea. Thanks! I really appreciate your comments.

Any other thoughts...post them here.
 

dotcalc

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Re: 1987 Islander v226 Floor ?

I have a 1978 22' V5 (150 hp outboard) Islander. I just finished replacing my floor with marine plywood (this was expensive at $97.00/sheet, and you will need 3 sheets Knoxville TN). I then coated the marine plywood on both sides with fiberglass resin to provide extra "time". The guy above is correct in that you will be smart to cut some port holes in the floor like I did. I put in an 8" right over the fuel sending unit. The other guy above is also correct on the stringer arrangements. They are basic and have probably not changed much. Tere is styrofoam on either side of the fuel tank...not waterloged in mine. I have a 55 gallon tank as you have and I can tell you EXACTLY where the fuel sending unit is.
The best idea is the diamond plate as I was too short sighted to think about it (and I'm a nuclear engineer?). It came out VERY nice howeverd:), and you don't need to be a major mechanic. Just take care to rip out he old floor and not damage the stringers.
 
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