1983 35hp siezed after sitting for 5 years.

starcraftkid

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I picked up a clean looking 1983 35hp Johnson a few months ago, it came to me attached to the back of a junk 15ft trihull that I promptly turned into mulch.
The story I got was that it was their dad's boat and he had taken ill and died in 2017, but they remember him using it the prior season over in PA.
The boat was a bad bass boat conversion of sorts where someone had added 400lbs of plywood and carpet to make a deck boat with hatches out of it. Although it was stored under a carport all the wood was soft and rotted and the hull waterlogged.
I was mainly after it for spare parts and it was 'free' with a two year old trailer for $200.

I let the motor soak for a few month but no change, it was locked up tight.
I pulled it apart, tearing it down to a bare block and two stuck pistons.
The rest of the motor was in super shape, almost no signs of wear or heat damage.
The first thing I found was some rust on bottom of both cylinders, one piston was at tdc, the other nearly at the bottom. With the crank out, and lots of oil I was able to tap the top cylinder out of the bore but it was tight. The both rings were stuck at the bottom of the piston.
The bottom cylinder wouldn't move, so I soaked the block in hot atf at about 140 degrees. After a few hours I was able to tap it down in the bore slightly where I could clean up some rust at the top, after some careful finessing with a large hammer and block of wood I was able to get the piston out. Both rings were firmly stuck. I washed off the block, ran a ball hone through both bores and the cylinders look great, there's no pitting, scoring, or transfer.
After soaking both pistons in a hot ultrasound cleaner the rings released, but the second ring on the lower cylinder came out in pieces. The others all came out perfect.
With the pistons cleaned up, I popped out the wrist pins and found the lower wrist pin badly pitted from rust, but the rod was untouched.
With the pistons bare and clean, and the block now run through two cycles in the spray washer, I figured I'd loosely assemble the block till I get a few new parts. (It also needs a lower crank bearing which was rusted and rough).
I went to drop the pistons in the bore and was having trouble getting them to go. I then turned them over and they drop right in but stop 1" from the bottom of the skirt.
In checking the piston skirts, I find both piston skirts exactly .014" larger than the area behind the bottom ring.
Neigther piston has so much as a scratch on it and both cylinders were honed slighty to clean up any rust or rough spots and nothing is visible to the naked eye and both cylinders measure 3.00" and are round with no taper. both pistons measure 3.014" at the base of the skirt but 2.94" at forward 1" in a rapid but smooth taper. (There's no bulge or flare that can be seen or felt).
I've been building motors for 40 years, mostly big diesels, but have never seen piston skirts expand?
This was a motor that was on a boat being used. It shows no signs of being blown up or overheated, the water pump impeller was in good shape, and its super clean. There's zero cylinder wear and zero bearing wear or tracking that normally shows with age or use.


The area of the cylinders where the skirts were sitting was clean in both bores, the only rust showing was at and above the rings and a little bit on the top if the crank counterweights. The bearings were clean and well lubed still soaked in oil.
Two things that I don't get is that neither piston skirt is scored or scratched, even from driving them out but I did have both bores completely soaked in atf while doing it and had removed the rust at the top before hand.
It took moderate force to remove the top piston, but the lower piston tool me using 5 pound deadblow hammer and a piece of 2x3 wood. Once it moved, dowward at first, it came out fairly easily but not freely.

While I'd like to put this back together again, its no a priority and was a free motor that gives me lots of spare parts but I just can't figure out how two pistons that I just tapped out of a block seemingly grew too large to go back in.
Any ideas?
 

stresspoint

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 19, 2022
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1,045
think along the lines of >>> water does not get inside a 2 stroke for unknown reasons.
my guess it has over heated at some point > broken ring , swelled piston skirt or ? out of round cylinder bore tell me it has been hot but not enough to seize/ explode.
check the water pump for busted fins / ware or scoring ,water tube for cracks or deteriorated O rings , head and block with a strait edge . water got in for some reason and that will be the answer to the puzzle here .
good luck and please post your out come .
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,906
Replace the pistons as driving them out with stuck rings damages the ring lands. A 2 stroke piston ride on the rings at top and skirts at the bottom. All 2 stoke pistons are tapered.
 

cyclops222

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1,318
Aluminum .............DOES EXPAND........ after decades in cars. 52 Ford V8 needed the carb base resurfaced every few years. After about 15 years of use. Rough idle and vacuum leak were the signal. Never over heated. great engine.
 

saltchuckmatt

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Jul 19, 2019
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2,658
Next time add your special concoction to the spark plug holes, soak it for a week, remove head and lightly tap the pistons.

If it moves, re-assemble and enjoy the glory.

Done it many times.
 

starcraftkid

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 5, 2010
Messages
231
I did soak the pistons first but once I had the head off I could see no amount of soaking was going to remove rust. I pulled the power head, pulled the crank then worked on the pistons. The top cylinder moved easier then the lower right away. I pushed both down so I could clean up the rust at the top first, then I pushed the pistons out. The bottom was worse than the top but still not moveable by hand.
I understand that 2 stroke pistons are tapered but for the skirt to be larger than the hole just can't be right. The piston skirts are both identical in OD and both are round, as are the cylinders. I'm betting that this motor never ran very long at all and it likely just sat and rusted up.
The piston skirts at the widest point are .014" LARGER than the hole.
When I build a bike motor, the spec is .002-005" clearance.
The pistons have to be able to move freely in the bore,
What I have here is a negative .014" interference fit. What I can't figure out is how they came out of the hole without leaving marks in the skirts.
Both bores are square and round and measure 3.00" to 3.001" well within specs for any engine.
I"m also not seeing any signs of over heating, at least nothing that would make me think it f'd up the pistons in this way. It would take a shop press to reinstall the pistons as they are. The odd part is that both are identical, if one was worse, or one not oversized at all, I'd figure something happened to it when it was running but both pistons are clean, with not so much as a scratch on them. Soaking them in hot solvent loosened up the stuck rings, the broken ring though is in 30 pieces and never came loose, I had to pull every little piece out buy hand. A new set of rings are too tight in the ring lands, even after clearing the ring lands out using a piece of old ring. The three good rings fit back on just fine.

One thing I considered was if someone didn't install a set of oversize pistons in a standard bore but how did they get them in without damage unless they froze the pistons and heated the block.
I have a few sets of used pistons and rods here and those fit just fine and measure only 2.981" at the skirts. The difference is that they taper evenly from the bottom ring land to the tail of the skirt, the pistons in question only begin to taper in the last inch or so.
They are also heavier by nearly 4oz each than the used set I have. (The used set came from a motor I scrapped that had severe salt corrosion issues).

I'm tempted to take these pistons and turn down the skirts on the lathe to give me about .002" clearance, cut the ring lands to fit the rings and see if it'll work.
Although I may have a new set of pistons in my parts stash I'm not sure this is the motor to waste them on. I can't get the thought of why the pistons won't take the OEM packaged rings, or why the pistons are so much heavier than the other set. They're obviously heavier made all around, with more metal around the wrist pin and a thicker dome area.
I believe the spare set of used pistons I've got came from a 1981 model.

My original thought was to just free it up, clean up the bore and put it back together and on the shelf for future use but when the pistons wouldn't go back in the holes they came out of t became a curiosity project of sorts.
I don't need the motor, I've got others just like it but it looks super clean so I dug into it with the thought I'd strip off the good parts and toss the rest but as I tore it apart the cleaner it looked. I cam close to just tossing the whole upper sans the carb and lower unit in the pile but as I opened it up it looked so clean I kept going. Even the gaskets all came off in one piece cleanly. (Something else that may lend itself to someone having been here before me and given up).
 

slowleak

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Feb 21, 2011
Messages
201
I had an '86 30hp that was locked up when I found it. I took it apart thinking it was either cooked or rusted up from sitting for years but found the inside to be clean. I ended up tearing the power head down and pressing the pistons out on my shop press.
I thought I was loosing my mind when after removing the rings the same pistons wouldn't go back into the holes. Mine had no rust, and the pistons showed no real signs of being too tight yet the very rear of the skirt had somehow expanded to larger then the cylinder. I had abuddy turn down each piston till it fit with about .004" or so and I put it back together. It ran good for a season but locked up over the following winter. When I pulled it apart again I had the same thing, no rust, and the pistons were tight in the bore. I again pressed them out, and measured each one and both had grown again to the point they were too tight to move. I gave up and put a set of used pistons in it and all has been fine for years.
LIke you found, the pistons in question were oddly heavy duty looking, The machine marks on the sides were pronounced, and very deep. The rings on mine were stuck the second time but I never bothered to try to free them I just tossed them in a scrap heap. After the piston swap, I gained a ton of compression and both pistons came up a bit higher in the bore then before. Enough so I was concerned about head clearance so I tested it with some clay. (The pistons in question only came about 3/8" from the top of the bore, the used one's came about 1/8" from the top edge. on the sides.
The compression went from around 90 psi to over 160 psi.
I don't even think I replaced the rings on the used pistons, I just threw them in as found and let it fly. I did hone the cylinders a bit first though.
That was over 20 years ago now.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,906
This is a new one on me as I have remanned over 500 engines and never seen a piston skirt grow. If it was .014 over there is no way the skirts didnt drag on the way out
 

tphoyt

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Jun 10, 2010
Messages
1,267
This is a strange one for sure. I have never seen an over sized piston that wasn’t marked but I’m sure they are out there. Maybe it was rebuilt oversized pistons were driven home and she never ran again. You may never know.
Keep us posted on the investigation.
 

starcraftkid

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Jul 5, 2010
Messages
231
This is a strange one for sure. I have never seen an over sized piston that wasn’t marked but I’m sure they are out there. Maybe it was rebuilt oversized pistons were driven home and she never ran again. You may never know.
Keep us posted on the investigation.
This seems to be the most likely scenario. I have no clue where its been before I got it other than it was rigged on a boat that I got for free.
The only part that don't make sense is how clean the whole thing is.
And both bores are absolutely perfect in stock specs.
If it were original though, and had run any length of time, seeing even a few heat cycles, I'd have expected the gaskets to have been adhered to the aluminum. The only gasket that was stuck to anything was the rear gasket on the reed plate. It would have looked more like a failed build if it weren't on a boat rigged up as if it were being used, but so many years after the fact from an unknown owner or source, who knows i guess.
When it was stuck, and the fact that it was in an area that got flooded bad back during Hurricane Sandy, I thought maybe it got submerged but what I found didn't show that at all.

I just can't imagine how they drove the pistons home, .014" is a lot to force fit and not leave marks of some sort on the pistons. The skirts are absolutely perfect.

Even though I'm the only one here, just to check my sanity here I took some more measurements and compared the pistons I removed to several pairs of used pistons, of which I have four sets, all stock, used pistons mostly from motors that were junked for corrosion issues and too many broken bolts and such. All 8 of the used pistons measure within .0015" at the ring lands, at the wrist pin area and at the 2" mark down from TDC.
They all taper very slightly but very gradually in the last 1.2" at the skirt to a range of 2.885" to 2.992". All but one pair are identical in every way except one pair which has a slightly different style or slightly thicker wrist pin installed. All of the used pistons are likely OEM OMC installed pistons.
They physically look similar to those in this motor but the one's in this motor are more of a bronze or darker color than the used one's on the shelf. Sort of a brown/bronze/gray color vs shiny machined aluminum.
The oversized pistons have rougher machining marks on the side, rough enough to feel with a fingernail, where as the others are smooth, or polished looking. When I tried to remove the wrist pins on these pistons I had to resort to a pin puller normally used on cars, where as those on the other four sets come out with light tapping.
I also dug out another well used bare block and took measurements on that and tried these same pistons in that block but its a no go, just as bad as the block they came from. Inserting a bare piston into a clean bore upside down, it stops leaving 1.3" out of the bore pushing does not wedge the piston, it stops cleanly since the transition or expanded portion is too drastic to get wedged without serious force.

As I think about this further, if these were oversized pistons, the ring land area would also be larger, but its not. Only the very last part of the skirt is affected. The front of the piston is just fine.
Also keep in mind that I didn't beat the pistons out like a madman, they were tapped out against the crown first and then with a hand on the capped end of the rod that I clamped round a piece of aluminum dowel I cut to fit the rod so as not to damage the big end of the rod. I was expecting to need more force than it took to remove them. Which doesn't make sense in my head seeing how big the skirts were. With that sort of interference fit, it should have taken hydraulics and some serious pressure to move them. .014" is one hell of an interference fit.

I spoke to a guy who used to work on nothing but OMC back in the day and he asked me to check the ring gaps on the three remaining rings, what I found was both top rings are at .003", and the one surviving second ring has no gap, in fact it doesn't even properly meet without overlapping the stepped ends. The brass pin in that piston looks fine though.
I checked all 8 used pistons and every one of them will drop into the bore without any issues. They fit closely but not tight. Measuring a pair of used rings of one of the used pistons I got .015 and .008 for ring gaps. top/bottom ring in this block. and basically the same in a few other blocks.

Regardless, its all too screwed up to bother with since I have other motors and what began as a salvage situation turned into more of an autopsy I suppose. Not knowing what it went through to get this way is cause enough for me to not rebuild it. I have better motors if I feel the need to build one but unless they become a hot item in big demand in the future, this is going on the shelf in a box with a long note as to what ails it for now.
Looking closely at the bearings and races, this motor doesn't really look like its run if at all, there is zero tracking or wear on any bearing surface or the crank journals. The only bearing issues were the lower crank bearing and lower wrist pin bearing both of which were rusty. The crank is good, the lower unit is good, the carb is good, and all the electronics will fix other motors soon enough. The rest is just bits and pieces and a box on the shelf with a cleaned, oiled, and bagged block and two pistons with a long note so I don't ever confuse it with another and got through all this again. It may even get tossed in the scrap the next time I make a haul to the yard.
 

cyclops222

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Micrometer reading error. There is no way the engine could idle smoothly ???????????? All that friction
 

starcraftkid

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J kind of thought that myself at first but Ive measured them a half dozen times with two different micrometers and my calipers.
Its also why I went digging for the used pistons. When the used pistons dropped in as they should, it sort made it obvious there was something wrong with the pistons I removed from this motor.
The motor didn't idle, it was locked up and wouldn't turn, not even with a 4ft bar bolted to the top of the flywheel.
Either these pistons are either oversized or they managed to swell or expand somehow, but the fact that both pistons are identical that seems very unlikely.
I simply can't imagine a scenario where two pistons can grow .018" while installed, or where both end up being identical.
I have a variety of bore gauges, micrometers, calipers and just about anything I'd need to measure or rebuilt an engine, but my experience is most with truck diesels than with outboards but the basics are much the same and a piston has to both be smaller than the hole its shoved into and likely undersized by several thousandths of an inch so as not to swell and seize in the bore when the engine gets warm.
There's no doubt what I have here now but how it got in this state is the big question. If the pistons were meant to be oversize, then they're not marked, and the only scenario I can imagine that would allow anyone to install them would be to freeze the pistons and heat the block.
even .014 is beyond a normal interference fit. If you were trying to install a bearing that was .014" too large for the shaft or hole it needed to be installed to it wouldn't fit without damaging one or the other so how these pistons came out without marks is beyond me.
 

stresspoint

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its not the pistons that's causing the dragging , use a """ bore gauge"" and micrometer ,not just calipers and check the cylinders , pay close attention to below the ports.
the bores are cast steel and the engine block is alloy . my guess ,it has swelled in the water jackets over time , put pressure on the bores and sent them out of round , note : it was common older Kawasaki jet skis with piston port 2 smokes to do this when not flushed after use and left to sit over time.
i would bet there was lots of white corrosion in the dried out water jackets.

FWIW ,some may say this cant happen with fresh water use, it can as all fresh water is not 100% free of corrosive elements.
 

cyclops222

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Hard to believe this. But I do recall that some grades / types of 1960s ? Aluminum did swell up if left in warehouses to long. My 1962 Ford V8 aluminum manifold & carburetor needed resurfacing after decades. Never over heated.
Somebody must have been told........... Do not worry. They will wear in.

I love some of the problems I see here. I did some at age 16 or so.
 

starcraftkid

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There are no marks, but they do have more pronounced machining rings in them around the circumference.
I've never seen aluminum pistons 'grow' before, but anything is possible I suppose.
The bore isn't the issue I've got a proper Starrett bore gauge and internal micrometers just for checking cylinders. I both worked on diesel engines most of my life, and spent about 14 years working in a machine shop that did nothing but engine work.
The fact that the used, stock pistons drop in as they should pretty much rules out the bore being out of round or too small somehow. Plus I already measured and found that the last 1.1" of the skirt area is expanded somehow to 3.014" which is larger than the 3.00" bore.
If these were this size when installed, the motor could have never run or even turned. The only way they would ever fit into the cylinder is by freezing the pistons and heating the block. even then it would normalize too fast to even get the rod bearings and caps in place.
The pistons do look different than the other sets I've got, the other pistons do not have the fine circular machine marks around the whole piston below the ring lands but its not knurling, it just looks like they way their made. You have to look close to see the marks but on the other pistons the skirts are smooth.

I found the registration for the boat this came off of in the side bin, it was last registered in MA back in 1984, which matches the hull decals. The owner peeled off the numbers though, apparently MA numbers belong to the owner not the hull?
This means that the motor was likely nearly new when it was last used. The trailer registration and title I got with it are also from 1984. To me this lessens the chance that someone was in this before.

How far up should these pistons travel?
The lowest top surface of one of the original pistons only comes about 1/4" from the top of the bore. I haven't put it together with the used pistons to compare but for some reason it doesn't look right.
 

stresspoint

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there is an equation that my machinist mate used to use when reborning my jet ski motors which was high performance work on 2 smokes that was too complex for me to even contemplate or understand when it was explained.
he would always ask for pistons and rings to come together as a set with the cylinders so as the re bore could be done to the specifications he had to allow for expansion , contraction and fit especially on the critical break in period of fresh motors..

as posted by faztbullit, 2 stroke pistons are not the same as diesel or 4 stroke , neither are bore measurements in relation to them piston sizes.

anyway , since you are the expurt here and we are just hack back yard mechanics ,have fun trying to figure this out since no one here's theory's coincide with your expertise .
with that said i would be keen to see where you end up with this after machining pistons or using undersize used ones in a tight bore.

good luck!
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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37,840
If piston was 0.014" bigger than the bore it would not go in on assembly.-----Method of measuring / reading the micrometer must be revisited !
 
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