1976 Montego 16- The "Free" Puppy

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
216
New forum member and also a new boater. To put a long story short, back in September my best friend's aunt gifted me a 1976 Starcraft Montego 16 that they were the original owners of.

It hadn't run in 10 years and had sat in a garage/barn. Died on the water with ignition issues (suspected ballast wire fault, more later). Low usage though (for better or worse). The best friend's uncle died and said friend's dad's health went downhill in said time. They were going to reluctantly scrap it (or sell it for whatever they could get), but I made the "mistake" of saying "nice boat" and decided to send it (and a ton of accessories) home with me! It was a 200 mile (each way) drive, but it worked out:

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(My wife and I, right after pulling it from it's 10 year slumber in the garage)

Here's a picture of where it is at the moment (done a lot of work, see below):

IMG_20230929_172615.jpg

That was taken at the end of September, when my new registration letters came in (had to re-register it and the trailer due to a myriad of titling issues with both... what a major pain, but I was able to make it legal!). Was trying to make the lettering match the Starcraft wordmark... close enough?

It has a mercruiser 888 outdrive (Ford 302 based). And the hull is in great shape, other than a slight bit of dock rash. Supposedly they were hitting 60mph in the thing when it ran last.

Anyway, here's a nice long list of issues it had when I got it, and where I am on getting them fixed:

-No title for boat or trailer (due to being grandfathered)- Fixed after two weeks of HELL. Wrong HIN on the old registration (letter/number swapped), and the trailer was just a mess. Back in the late 80's/early 90's when Indiana started registering boats and trailers I guess it was the wild, wild west. But, several documents and redo's later, we finally got the ducks in a row and were able to title/register both.
-Usual issues of anything with an engine that sat (old fuel and oil): Need to drain and clear both; the gas tank is (per the gauge) half-full. It's not bad for 10 years old... which is still junk. I was able to get it to kinda run after more work (see below) but it needs drained. Same story with the oil... I need to decide what I want to run (stick with SAE-30, or maybe try 25W-40?). Outdrive oil will be changed per another service needed.
-Ignition is old and appears to all be original (to include cap, rotor, and wires; the points had and condenser had been changed). Given the failure when on the water and not seeing this as a concours restoration, I decided the best option was to upgrade to a Pertronix Ignitor setup (got lucky and scored some open box stuff on eBay for cheap). Need to do the rest; I haven't seen the plugs but the rest isn't all that worn/rotten if you'd believe it, which is why I've deferred them to later.
-Fuel system was/is a big mess. They had "upgraded" to a 4 barrel carb long ago, but it was done very poorly using a carb off a 1970s' ford super duty (with a coat hanger choke) and a very jerry rigged fuel system (old hard line with automotive fuel hose)... and no flame arrestor or anything at all on top. The only part of it I've kept is the Edelbrock intake... I got lucky on eBay (again, thankfully) and was able to nab a "barely used" Holley 5.0 Marine carb and flame arrestor for $400 on a best offer. Once that was installed, I ran some temporary fuel hose (more automotive crap, what I could get at the time) and (with the ignition work above) was able to get it to start and run, albeit with the throttle bumped and it running at 1200RPM. Was very smooth... Since then, I've swapped the fuel line for proper USCG rated hose; I still need to replace a missing gasket on the carb's fuel inlet (inlet screen assembly) which is leaking and replace the water separator (didn't swap due to using old fuel).
-Electrical system had issues too. Supposedly no gauges worked, but the fuel gauge did respond (may have a stuck sending unit, but I won't know until I pump out the tank) and the tach did work. Voltmeter works but the needle is busted (will need to pull the cluster to glue back on). Temp gauge works with the wire cheated; I haven't got it warm enough to see if the sending unit is any good. Trim gauge and switch are toast... wire crumbled. As of this evening I was finally able to get the grommet plate pulled from the outdrive (bought a 14" 1/4 extension and a used MAC swivel socket (1/4 drive 7/16") and such was able to get in without pulling the outdrive); I've done testing to confirm all the wiring and whatnot after the factory bullet splices is good. Need to order new switch/sender; the pucks are still good (tested tonight) but my attempts to salvage the grommets wasn't as good as I'd have liked (Are eBay trim kits any good?). Finally, the starter had been upgraded to a marine PMGR (it's a Ford thing), but rather than reuse the starter relay for the solenoid drive (and move the power cable to the other relay stud), they were driving it direct with the key. Not good. I have a relay in there for now, my current wiring is a big (different) mess; thought I needed a diode/relay circuit for getting ignition power in crank, but it seems the key switch provides run power in crank already; the ballast wire and second ignition relay connection are both cut). I'll probably mount a new relay (old one is missing nuts and a pain to access, possibly dead?) and redo/simplify the new ignition wiring. Finally, none of the nav lights were working; the stern light wiring burnt to a crisp (wires rotted like the trim cables), which I was able to fix by drilling/soldering new wires to the socket (it's a weird extra-long bolt pattern) and running a new ground connection (as that's the wire that fried); the bow light was luckily just a burnt bulb.
-Impeller isn't pulling water. I had muffs on it when I ran it... while water did make it to the manifolds and block (and it drained plenty when I winterized it last month), nothing came out the prop. Looks like I'm replacing the impeller too (going to also do the housing as it can't hurt).
-Back seat cushion needs reupholstered. A raccoon (or the like) got to it in storage. The one that's there isn't original (as such blew out of the boat while being towed one day), so eventually I'll get a new one made.
-Glove box latch busted (zinc briggs lock core sheared). Was able to redrill and trim the box to accept a generic Amazon latch. Doesn't quite look stock, but the factory latch is unobtanium.
-Need to get some supplies not included (flares, life ring/square, horn, new fender lines, etc.). They did include a few life jackets (good for initial testing), a couple ski ropes, a ski/tube harness, two sets of old wooden skis (clear coat not so good though), and a large barely-used airhead tube.
-Fuel cap is a jerry rigged rotten rubber plug. Will need to clean out the threads and see if a modern cap will fit (chain was broken, original is probably at the bottom of a lake somewhere!)
-Trailer wiring is a hot mess. I have new lights and most of the new wire but haven't gotten to wiring it yet. Winter project...

I'm hoping to have it ready to try out on the Ohio river (which I live 5 minutes from, Madison IN) this spring. I wasn't really looking to become a boat owner, but if I was to own one, a classic with a Ford V8 that goes fast would be it. I already own two Ford trucks (one of which, a 1984 F150, is what I'm towing with).

All said, not bad for "Free"*?

*- I do owe the best friend an Ohio river ride once it's riverworthy, as the one string attached. But he has to drive the 200 miles to meet me!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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48,760
The most expensive boats in the world are free.

Good luck bringing it back to life
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
216
The fact it was in a barn for ten plus years is the best news of your post.

Good luck
Thanks. They did have the grandkids clean it while it sat.

Unfortunately I don't have a covered place to store it (Garage full and too low), so I bought a seal skin cover. Doesn't fit quite right, but that's because I ordered the wrong size because they initially told me it was an 18, not a 16. But I was able to make it work putting the cover over the trailer winch. I won't be storing it at a dock, so for now, it's working.
 

Moserkr

Chief Officer + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2021
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Nov 23, 2020
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867
For a glasser Starcraft, thats probably the coolest one to own! Yours is very clean and still shines. Will be a fun project!
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
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Jul 22, 2008
Messages
4,786
Very cool looking boat !! Looking at your list, I didn't see any testing on wood inside the fiberglass. Transom and stringer wood is critical that it is not rotted !! Being stored inside is a major plus, especially if its whole life was indoors. Next would be the rubber bellows on the outdrive, after ten years that definetly needs replaced !!
If they split open while on the water, you will probably sink in a very short time. Please post some pics of your progress, very interesting and cool old boat, looks like it belongs in a James Bond movie !!
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
216
Very cool looking boat !! Looking at your list, I didn't see any testing on wood inside the fiberglass. Transom and stringer wood is critical that it is not rotted !! Being stored inside is a major plus, especially if its whole life was indoors. Next would be the rubber bellows on the outdrive, after ten years that definetly needs replaced !!
If they split open while on the water, you will probably sink in a very short time. Please post some pics of your progress, very interesting and cool old boat, looks like it belongs in a James Bond movie !!

Missed this.

All of the wood, as far as I can tell, is good shape. There is a soft spot by the back of the ski compartment, but that seems to have more to do with a lack of support than wood damage. Also, a tack strip fell off the sundeck bottom, but I'll eventually fix that.

I checked the bellows thoroughly... they're in good shape. No signs of cracking, hardening, or rot.

---

I have gotten a couple of things done in the last few weeks as weather and work have allowed.

One was replacing the trim switch and sender. I found some NOS knockoffs for cheap on eBay... but as I found out, they were missing parts and generally junk. But the cables were fine, and since I still had the old switch/sender (which were intact minus cables), I gutted the junk units and crimped ring terminals onto the new cables to fit the old units (which I cleaned out, tested, and repacked with fresh silicone dielectric grease). The socket and extension worked great for reinstalling the retainer plate without removing the outdrive. The trim switch works great, but the the gauge isn't right yet. Seems there's a wiring issue as moving the harness changed the behavior even with nothing connected (won't go to full up like it had been, acting like it's got a partial short to ground. The sending unit is working well per a multimeter check... may be more BBQ'd wiring from the stern light failure (which was in fact a burnt ground wire). If needed I'll run a new wire from the instrument cluster. To be continued...

Another project was replacing the sketchy fuel filler. The original had a rotting rubber plug in place of the long-lost fuel cap, which gummed things up:

IMG_20231017_190842.jpg

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(these were pics I took for measuring; I didn't get other pics of the old setup).

This filler uses oddball fine threads, so replacing the cap and cleaning it was out. But, as it turns out, a few 3rd parties made fillers that look similar, use the same bolt pattern, and use a more common thread. I was able to get an NOS one on eBay for $20 (Tempo 109DPF).

Installation was a real pain. One issue was that the grounding was via a fully-threaded oval head screw, which was bent after installation to allow the fill hose's clamp to clear. I was able to straighten it enough to allow for reuse (I did have to bend again after installation). Another was discovering the hose is too stiff to clear the filler lip. But, as I discovered, the original part had the lip sawed off:

IMG_20231208_200015.jpg

(maybe sanded, I dunno).

So, in Rome, do as the Romans:
IMG_20231208_195414.jpg

(not as pretty as I used a hacksaw and a file, but it worked).

Other than being a ship in a bottle to work on (and dropping my nut driver all the way to the bottom of the bilge, fun retrieval), I had no other issues.

New part installed:

IMG_20231208_214303.jpg

(Reused old holes and screws, it was already that crooked).

Future items: I have a new impeller kit to install. Need to get gear oil (and a pump if my automotive gear oil pump isn't usable here). Also, I need to get fresh oil and change such (I think I've decided 15W40 Rotella T6 is the way to go here, all things considered); thankfully, I have wix filters already (I bought them in bulk since my two Ford trucks use the same filter). And drain the fuel tank... that'll be fun (especially figuring out where to dispose of such nasty fuel... treat as waste oil?
 

airshot

Rear Admiral
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Jul 22, 2008
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4,786
If there are soft spots in the floor that is a bad sign ! Glass boats rot from the very bottom up. You definetly need to dig deeper into the structure !! That wood is the skeleton of the boat, if it has rotted, the fiberglass will fail. Wish I has better news, but your safety needs you to dig deeper.
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 30, 2023
Messages
216
If there are soft spots in the floor that is a bad sign ! Glass boats rot from the very bottom up. You definetly need to dig deeper into the structure !! That wood is the skeleton of the boat, if it has rotted, the fiberglass will fail. Wish I has better news, but your safety needs you to dig deeper.
I'll look closer this weekend (or today, if I have time and weather is good). From what I could see/feel the last time I looked into it, I didn't find any rot or anything obviously failed. It's right in front of the back seat, where the lid of the ski compartment ends. There's definitely wood there... it just gives a bit when stood on.

My understanding is that it was garage (barn) kept all those years... and only ever got rained on once.
 

airshot

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I'll look closer this weekend (or today, if I have time and weather is good). From what I could see/feel the last time I looked into it, I didn't find any rot or anything obviously failed. It's right in front of the back seat, where the lid of the ski compartment ends. There's definitely wood there... it just gives a bit when stood on.

My understanding is that it was garage (barn) kept all those years... and only ever got rained on once.
Ski lockers are very prone to rotting, gotta get down under the floor closer to the bottom. Not trying to be difficult here, but would not want to see you put time and money into a boat then have a major failure out on the water. Unfortunately their are many horror stories about folks that refused to address rot issues. Better to be safe than sorry...
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Ski lockers are very prone to rotting, gotta get down under the floor closer to the bottom. Not trying to be difficult here, but would not want to see you put time and money into a boat then have a major failure out on the water. Unfortunately their are many horror stories about folks that refused to address rot issues. Better to be safe than sorry...
Will do when weather permits. Not sure what to look for without cutting the whole thing down... The wood under the back seat cushion was good. As was everything in the engine compartment/bilge. Somewhere I have a moisture checker (like home inspectors use)... but goodness knows what I did with it and if it works.
---
While at the store got oil. At the last minute I changed my mind and went with SAE30 Rotella T1. Just too many variables given the extremes of marine use. It's more or less what's spec'd (SAE 30 in the temps I expect to see)...
 

ratdude747

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Rotella 15w-40 diesel would be my recommendation
Which is what I was originally going to use, specifically T6 full synth. But I got worried about drainback and leaks (and a bit of sticker shock since I can only get rotella in 1 gallon and 2.5 gallon jugs, no quarts, at least locally.). But, I haven't changed it yet (and due to a last minute arrangement, won't be this weekend)... so I may go elsewhere while I'm out of town and get 6 quarts of 15W40.
 

flashback

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The 15/40 diesel is good, don't waste coin on the syn. What amazed me is that the 10 year old fuel still burns!
 

ratdude747

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Sep 30, 2023
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I'll grab T4 then... Was trying to prevent long term sludging but as little as I see this getting used relative to the change frequency, it probably doesn't matter.

I've also read that conventional multi-weights are no good for marine use due to excessive shear thinning (especially since the VII's are what go away first as the oil ages). Synthetic has no VIIs, so they don't have that issue. Hence why mercruiser spec'd single weight oils based on water temp (SAE 20 below 32, SAE 30 32-100, SAE 40 100+).

Edit- did some more reading... I see what y'all mean. I didn't get enough outdrive oil either (and it's annoying squeeze bottles)... I'll be by a menards at dinner, where I can get 15w40 T4 for cheaper than Walmart and quicksilver outdrive oil (and a pump for such). And return all the Walmart junk tomorrow. Good thing I kept the receipt!
 
Last edited:

alldodge

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Walmart sells for $15.98 a Gal (4 Qt) which is same as Amazon
Don't see getting it less then that

Just search 15W40 diesel oil
I usually buy Mobil Delvac, Walmart 14.42 Gal (3.60 QT) or case of 4 Gal for 49.48 (3.09 QT). Get free ship buying enough
 

ratdude747

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 30, 2023
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Oil obtained... yes it was cheaper at Menards, especially since they also sell quarts and it was good for a rebate.



And outdrive oil:


They were out of outdrive oil pumps though... no worry there, I'll order online or get from another Menards on my next adventure.
 
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