1960 75hp lower unit/seals

[Ralphw62]

this is a 2 part question.....<br /><br />I have water in the gearcase of the 75 starflite I'm working on. I have the Seloc manual which covers a variety of motors. all is going well till I get to the driveshaft.<br />

it says not to remove the bearing housing shown in picture that it could be damaged.<br />The book says clamp the shaft in a vise and drive the lower unit down off the shaft.then in a picture on the next page it shows the 1960 shaft still in place with the bearing housing removed and the bearings are held in place with a washer and clip. I guess my question is what is my next move with this?<br /><br /><br />question 2 is...<br /><br />its says I need special tools to replace the seal in the rear of the lower unit on the prop shaft. It says to just buy the whole assembly. well I don't think I will be able to find that. What do I do about the rear seal?<br /><br />Thank you all your help<br />Ralphw

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

On the 1960 model, remove those four bolts, then simply pry that cap off. THat will allow you to get at the seal.<br /><br />The rear seal.... same process. Remove the four screws, pry the end cap off to gain access to the seal.<br /><br />The driveshaft on that model has a roller bearing pressed on the shaft, and that bearing is held down (in place) with a snap ring. To remove the driveshaft, one needs to remove the cap, then the snap ring, and then and only then can one remove the driveshaft.

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

Thanks Joe. I'm glad I didn't whack it with a hammer like it said.

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

Ok took it off no problem.<br /><br />

<br />

<br /><br />What’s that little round spring loaded thing on the left for?<br /><br />the seal was very worn to the point of being sloppy on the shaft, what do I do just pry that out?<br /><br /><br />as far as the rear seal goes...the screws are large slotted ones. I got 2 loose, but the other 2 are not budging? Any secrets here? I don't want to strip them out? Can I heat them?<br /><br />thanks again. I very very much appreciate it.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

That small spring thing is a spring loaded vent. It eliminates any possibility of a pressure build up within the lower unit. As time went by though, in the later models, it was found that it really wasn't a needed item.<br /><br />Those large slotted screws.... purchase a hand held impact screwdriver tool. This tool will accept sockets and various screwdriver tips. It's a much needed tool when working on outboards. It'll remove those screws like they were installed yesterday.<br /><br />The seal...... yes, just pry it out or punch it out, whichever is feasible. Apply a thin coat of sealer on the outer edge of the seal when installing it.

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

Thanks Joe......<br /><br />I got the 3rd one. But really worried I stripped the 4th one. it still has some grab but not much.<br /><br /> I will see if I can get ahold of one tomorrow.<br /> <br /><br />

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

Joe is that an electric one or one you hit with a hammer?<br /><br />thanks again.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

he's talking about the one that looks like a fat screwdriver and you smack it with a hammer

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

Cool. Thank you.

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

well, I got the impact driver and it worked like it should. only thing is......the screw just keeps turning and doesn't come out.....<br />did i ruin my lower unit? something broke...not sure it its the screw ot the casting. anyone ever had this happen?<br /><br />EDITED______________________________________<br /><br />ok nothing appeared to break... the part that the screws attach to just dropped away and thats why it just kept turning.<br /><br />once again thank you for your support <br /><br />onward and upward

 

[Ralphw62]

Re: 1960 75hp lower unit/seals

ok. I have the bearing cap off. If I would of looked more closly at the pictures in the book I would of seen the retaining ring in there.<br /><br />My next step is to seperate the parts of th e bearing cap.<br /><br />I noticed 4 extra holes in the face of the cap, green arrows. I assume I would thread bolts in there to push the cap apart. T<br />here is nothing in my manual about this procedure.<br />

<br /><br />TY