Originally the lower driveshaft housing used two individual seals back to back. Updated part is a single double seal installed from the top requiring disassemble of the driveshaft housing components
If you intend to reseal the entire housing you'll need a yoke/input shaft seal and o ring, a new...
That is a regulator that is crimped/stamped in place at the aft end of the fuel rail. Mercruiser calls it a damper which lessens the feedback pressure in the fuel system from the injectors pulsing and is not used for pressure regulation
It's a GM part that is non serviceable and AFAIK is NLA...
Correct, with the wires disconnected from the bottle the alarm should not sound. Seeing as the bottle/switch is new that can be ruled out as a culprit
The switch in the bottle completes the audio warning system circuit to ground when the lube level drops too far. My guess is a chaffed wire...
A melted wire would indicate a short to ground, my first guess would be the choke. Otherwise the bypass wire as part of the original system could be an issue.
Not too sure where the bypass wire is connected but on some its from the primary side of the slave solenoid or the excite circuit from...
Like others say try heating the area around the insert and unthreading it with an appropriate socket
If you can't remove it conventionally you may have to drill it out and run a tap through the hole
You'll need a 1/4-18 NPS tap that requires a 7/16" pilot hole
It'd be best to start with a...
Would also add that on mercruiser fuel systems the regulator does not allow fuel to return to the tank. The line returns fuel to the water separator housing
Boats that have a fuel pump in the tank (mainly ski/surf/wake boats) return fuel to the tank. Mercruiser has never used an in tank pump...
Torquing the u bolt/through bolts/nuts is part of routine maintenance. 55 lb/ft iirc
Once slop is noticed between the steering shaft and gimbal ring its a bit too late. You can tighten the nut/bolt assy but don't go beyond the torque spec as you can break the bolts
If it tightens up the slop...
2x4 sideways in front of the drivshaft housing cap
Lift the drive upwards to wedge the 2x4 between the top cap and gimbal ring. That ought to force the drive off
Shift interrupt switch should not engage going into gear, only when coming out of gear into neutral
Possible causes are worn/binding lower cable, cables out of adjustment, improper lower cable routing, worn/binding shift system linkages
Lean condition, pre ignition, or mis adjusted/worn valves
Would be neat to know full advance number but you've checked timing twice. So, it's okay.....
New long block, hope valves adjusted proper
I'd focus on fuel delivery - pressure/vacuum first
Don't stock the kits so I can't say for that. The filters I have are the plain old qs ones in the box
Go through a lot of em in the spring and was curious when I noted the o ring instead of a quad ring
Only way I could get the fuel pump to not draw air was by tightening the filter with a strap...
