The iboats forum moderators are excited to announce that at this time it appears the iboats forums posting pictures function is working once again. Though we cannot promise for how long, we're hoping for indefinitely.
I had to pull up some of the foam between the stringers and it is wet at the bottom, soaked like a sponge. I’m not sure if it has been wet all along or if it was me not getting it covered before it rained one night. So now my question is why is it soaking up water, isn’t it suppose to be for...
I've noticed on a lot of transom rebuilds, guy's are cutting the bottom of the wood up above the drain plug, and filling it in with PB. Is this to keep the wood up away from the drain and possible water intrusion?
Question on cutting steering cutouts. How are guys doing this, do I cut these out first, before cutting keyhole? Is there some specific angle or width it should be?
I’m wondering, when you PBed the transom wood in the boat, did you put a thin layer on both the wood and the hull?
Also about how much PB did it take to cover the transom?
Just in case anyone is looking for fiberglass supplies in the Minneapolis/St.Paul area, Express Composites has reasonable prices and the customer service is 2nd to none.
I didn’t even ask them for any advice on how to do it/ or what to use for my project and Jim the owner went over every process...
No I don’t know him, I just have been thinking about getting a good machine for a while now. I am doing some restoration on my 78 Thompson and figure I will probably be doing the upholstery after my transom and floor project is done.
what would I want to look for, if I go look at the 211 in...
I’m looking at a Singer 211 G 157 on marketplace and the guy doesn’t know if it’s a clutch or servo. He said it’s got a pedal so it is variable speed, does that mean anything?
Another question I have is, my transom wood went all the way up to the seem where the top cap meets the hull, with no tabbing or anything on top of the wood. When I rebuild it should I stay 3"-4" lower and tab it in?
Guess on second thought, I will have to see what it costs to ship the mat, cloth, cabosil and 1/4 chop. then I will have a better idea if the freight is good or bad.
I was totally shocked when she said $102 for shipping one 5 gallon of resin. I was like what was I thinking, starting this...
She said somewhere around $175-200 for freight?
Guess I will try this local stuff. I’m getting it in Minneapolis so not like it’s some small town. Lol
Wouldn’t think they would be selling old stuff.
Thanks for the idea though.
Ok mine was probably about 2.0
My question is more of does it matter what size plywood I use to get there and do you guy’s think I should try to get away from using the flimsy 3/8 piece, like it was from new?
The total thickness of my transom was right around 1.950, it was 1 full layer all the way across of 23/32, then a 3' wide piece 23/32 and a 3/8"(about .344) piece nailed to that. Glass on transom is about .200, basically no glass over the wood.
So I was wondering if I should try to do something...
Just trying to learn a little about what makes one resin better or stronger. Basically replacing a transom would be structural, wouldn’t it? US Composites has a general purpose resin, that says not for use in structural repairs.
Well for me to order from US Composites it was $241 for 5 gallons shipped to Minnesota. My local is $169 no shipping or haz fee. I might be able to get epoxy for the $241 price, locally?
So I am pricing polyester resin, I was originally thinking of going with US Composites, their 435 marine grade. But the shipping and hazard fee comes to about $102 for 5 gallons.
So I found a local company selling resin. My question is how do I know if this resin is comparable to the US...
