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I already cleaned carburetors last year, but maybe I should do it again.
Yes. I modified the tell tale fitting to the top of the block.
Is there any other cooling modifications that I am missing?
All,
I still have some tuning to do, but I think rebuilding the engine went fairly well. I couldn’t do this without your advice !!
Thank you very very much for all your support.
It’s been a while…and finally she is back and runs. BUT, it’s running rough.
I will tune air-fuel mixture screws (because I turned some long time ago with my ignorance and I didn’t record the original position…) but do you have any recommendations what to check other than these screws?
Here’s...
I am now struggling to remove the reed valve bolts to replace the gasket. I torched and put penetrating oil at the bolt, but no luck even with manual impact driver.
I will try with automatic impact driver to see if bolts come off.
If you have any advice, please let me know.
I tightened the connecting rod screws little by little making sure the side edges of the mating surface are smoothly aligned. I followed tightening torque according to the service manual.
I am trying to put crank case back and I noticed the bearings on both ends of crankshaft don’t fit right.
I see some gaps as shown in the pictures. Can anybody help me out why this is happening? I keep rotating crankshaft but I get the same gaps. Thank you.
Thank you.
I ordered new piston but the pn on the piston arrived says 433945 and not 394461. I did a bit research and some say they are equivalent and I’m checking with the store that I purchased I am not convinced…
Any comment??
Thank you.
My question is…
Is needle bearing grease necessary to prevent wear of the bearings on pistons?
I couldn’t find a good answer (on Google) so I am asking here.
Thanks
Thanks. I now understand the grease is just for assembling needle bearings and it’s normal the grease is gone after a while. I will just make sure the bearings are smooth and put some 2 stroke oil to put piston assy back to crank rod.