1986 221 StarCraft islander

grizzreaper

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
160
1986 Starcraft Islander 221

Transom is rotten about a quarter of the way up.. so I can a patch this with replacement wood and fiberglass in. Or do I have to pull it all off. if I have to pull it all off, is there a way to remove the rear rub rails and top plate so I can pull the transom out. I have no idea on this for I never had to replace a transom. out drive is off and motor will be pulled this weekend, thanks in advance
 

emoney

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
2,551
You want to change out the whole thing, but that's probably just as easy as trying to replace part of it anyway. Lots of Islander's rebuilt on this forum so I'm sure there are plenty options for seeing how it's done. Good luck!
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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160
ok that's what I thought. I will try to pull rub rails off and see if the top deck is easy to remove. transom will slide out better this way, and it will be easier to pull motor. thank you for your reply
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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Hello everyone. Bought this boat 2 years ago. Replaced 3.0 mercrusier this year. Rewired and replaced gauges. Put in a new pump for sink. Went to hang wires and found transom is rotten. Removed outdrive and transom assembly. Started removed bolts and nuts. Now I need to know if I can remove rear cap to lift out transom. Also there is two gas tanks how many gallons are they . Thanks in advance.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Grizz, please dont start.multiple topics about the same subject

Here or the Restoration forum, not both

Merged
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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Don't know why that did that. I asked that ? On another forum and thought it be best to ask the ? In the StarCraft forum. As you can see it was not answered in the other forum. But I will continue with my trail n error. Still pulling bolts and nuts. Hopefully someone on here can answer the ? Google doesn't help. But thanks for heads up on a double post, trail and error at it's best
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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Ok all bolts are out not sure if I can remove the rub rail n the casing. Also do I grind or drill out the rivets to remove recap/step
 

500R

Cadet
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Oct 6, 2019
Messages
18
Try this restoration thread

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/own...t-islander-tear-down-and-restoration?t=472901

I've been studying this and the timfives thread for guidance with my own project.

Up in the sticky section above GA Boater has a closed sticky that has all the rebuild thread links, by model. Unfortunately for me nothing on my Heritage model, but its has enough similarities to the islander to make that info useful.
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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Thank you 500R for steering me in the right direction. I seen heat on the rub rail throughout. Went out side heated it up n off came the rail. Hope it's as easy as it came out. Now I will be chiseling the rivets off so I can remove.the top cap. Thanks again.
 

500R

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Oct 6, 2019
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Thank you 500R for steering me in the right direction. I seen heat on the rub rail throughout. Went out side heated it up n off came the rail. Hope it's as easy as it came out. Now I will be chiseling the rivets off so I can remove.the top cap. Thanks again.

You're welcome grizz. There is also some links posted by others within those threads that take you into some more specific procedures that are posted in a tips and tricks thread that's somewhere on here too. Good luck with your project.
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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does anyone know what the cut angle is on the top of the transom. also when I pulled the old one out there was more plywood on both sides on the bottom of the boat. should this be all one unit or does the bulk of the transom rest on these two pieces. mine was pretty rotten.
 

500R

Cadet
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Oct 6, 2019
Messages
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Dunno the cut angle grizz, and are you talking about the bottom of the transom? I do know that Mercury states the spacing on the transom plates is 2-21/4", according to the installation guide I found with my Heritage when I got it. So say the transom is 1-3/4" at the top, down where the drive stuff goes thru, you probably have another 1/2" piece of ply laminated to the transom board to give you the spacing. Check that timfives restore thread, I think page 5 or so, when he gets into cutting the wood and laminating it. You see where he adds that piece of wood. He also added wood up towards the top to give it more beef for his kicker motor. A clever idea for sure.

Cheers man
 

Unrooly1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
33
Easy enough to figure the angle after the rear rub rail is removed, Just put your angle finder or protractor on the deck and transom,
I think I set my saw to 8 degrees to make that cut.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
does anyone know what the cut angle is on the top of the transom. also when I pulled the old one out there was more plywood on both sides on the bottom of the boat. should this be all one unit or does the bulk of the transom rest on these two pieces. mine was pretty rotten.

15 degrees
 

grizzreaper

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 8, 2007
Messages
160
1986 starcraft islander 221

Hello everyone i have taking out the rotten transom on this boat. is there anywhere i can get a pattern for this transom. or can someone tell me how i can draw a new one to refit. i have two pcs of 3/4x4x8 plywood already glued it together. the old one just fell apart so i can not trace that one one on the new one. at a stand still with this one. thanks in advance.
 

grizzreaper

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Oct 8, 2007
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not sure why i cant find my post's on here thats why i started a new one.
 

GA_Boater

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Tape some cardboard together or if you have some insulation sheets, make your own pattern. Trim the new pattern slightly until it fits like the original wood.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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I had a similar dilemma and simply put the plywood against the exterior aluminum transom skin and traced the shape.

Took @ 1/8in off on all 4 sides and cut it. Only had to trim it ever so slightly along the 2 sides a 2nd time to get it to fit. Allowed a little extra room for multiple coats of epoxy on the edges after cutting.

Fit near perfect...
 
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