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22' Islander transom replacement without floor removal?

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  • 22' Islander transom replacement without floor removal?

    Greetings folks. New to the site and posting for the 1st time.

    I have a 1986 22 foot Islander that I have owned for 23 years and it has a rotten transom board that I am in the process of replacing. From what I can determine the floor boards and the motor and tank mounts are in good shape which I think is the result of indoor storage and additional ventilation that I installed after I bought it in 1996.

    My question here is whether anyone has ever done the transom board replacement without pulling the flooring? In looking at the construction it appears that the main goal in pulling the floor (other than replacing rotten wood) is to allow access to the through-hull bolts that are drawing the plywood up against the aluminum skin. I realize that there may well be a number of hidden connectors down there as well and I am thinking about cutting through the floor boards at the rear and getting access that way. The plan is to then install inspection hatch covers over these spots when finished which would trim out nicely and actually allow me to take a look in there periodically as well as pop them open for ventilation.

    Any pointers here? I thank you in advance and look forward to getting my grandkids out on Lake Michigan for a salmon or two.

    Bob

  • #2
    aboard

    No need to remove good decking to replace the transom.

    What motor? Assumption is an IO, MC140... advice depends on IO or OB model.
    1979 V5 SS140 HP Merc ...... 1970 18' Chieftain IO restoration
    1978 16' SS160 SeaNymph .. 1978 14' Seafarer

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    • #3
      Correct, 140hp 3.0L 4 cyl. Mercruiser I/O

      Thanks for your response.

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      • #4
        I know some of the IO model year Islanders have a really difficult transom cover to remove, to make sure which yours has, post some pics of the transom cover area.
        1979 V5 SS140 HP Merc ...... 1970 18' Chieftain IO restoration
        1978 16' SS160 SeaNymph .. 1978 14' Seafarer

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        • #5
          I got the cover off by drilling the rivet heads and shearing them off with a screwdriver and hammer. It came off without too much trouble and with no distortion from prying at the rivet location. So I have the board exposed and really the only thing left is to get the remaining through-hull screws out, bend up the gunwale end so the board will clear and pull.

          I haven't been taking any pictures but I will get a couple and post them when I get home tonight.

          I feel fortunate in that I am an old machinist and I operate an investment casting foundry that does aircraft and defense work. We are well equipped for most all mechanical things that might pop up and that will boost your confidence on projects like this. We always say that it something breaks and we can't get the parts we can make them. Very handy.

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          • #6
            If your Islander has end caps then you can cut the gunnels flush with the inside of the transom, the caps cover the cut and make it much easier than working around a bent up gunnel end.
            1979 V5 SS140 HP Merc ...... 1970 18' Chieftain IO restoration
            1978 16' SS160 SeaNymph .. 1978 14' Seafarer

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            • #7
              The top cap extends over these. So are we saying that we should cut the end of these off?

              I will go out and get some photos and post them.

              Thanks for your help in the meantime.

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              • #8
                Sign up today
                Yeap if the cap covers the ends of the gunnels so the missing piece is covered up you can just use a saws all or jigsaw to cut the ends off the gunnels to make removing and installing the transom way easier and nobody will ever know or care. I cut them on my Chief and got those pesky screws that were in a bracket up under the gunnel as well.
                1979 V5 SS140 HP Merc ...... 1970 18' Chieftain IO restoration
                1978 16' SS160 SeaNymph .. 1978 14' Seafarer

                Comment

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