Restoration-full transom with bracket?

4426

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
21
hello, I am in the process of restoring a 1976 Starcraft mariner 18’ center console. Currently the boat has a 70hp Yamaha and a large splashwell. Now I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel here but I’m afraid that is in fact what I am doing. I want to rid myself of the splashwell, and when I re-do the transom make it tall enough so that it is even with the gunwales. Then rather than mount the outboard on the transom (obviously too high out of water at that point) Mount it either on a setback plate or high offset manual jack plate(8-12” of setback overall). The reason I want to rid myself of the splashwell is it will add about 2’ to the interior of the boat(maybe less if I decide some sort of storage). I would run rigging through rigging grommets in the transom. I fish this boat on Erie often which is why I’d prefer the high sided transom and the extra amount of room for walleye trolling.
My fear is I will be moving too much weight sternward especially when you consider I want to Repower with a new motor in a few years as well. Willing to listen to any and all opinions and perhaps other options.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
A couple of issues with your plan.

The splashwell adds significant structure to the stern of these boats that would have to be accounted for.

You would need more set back than what a jack plate type setup would give, you'd need to use an OB pod. The 20" shaft OB would be a poor choice on a pod with a 25" shaft being best so the powerhead would have less chance of being swamped.

A huge amount of work and expense you'll need to weigh for that extra 2 feet.

Another option is to re-size and decrease the footprint of the splashwell as many here have done successfully in their threads.
 

4426

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
21
Yeah that’s why I’m here I’m wanting opinions and options haha. Didn’t really realize the splashwell served any type of structural purpose(especially how mine has been cracked at the seams since I can remember 😅. I’m willing to add other bracing if necessary without an issue. But I really would like to take back this room. Unfortunately it already looks like someone had made the splashwell smaller in the past. Another option I’ve considered is use a smaller cut out in the transom for the motor(rather than the current basically beam wide dip) and add wave wackers to enclose the outboard around the hull. I’ll snap some pics in a few of the current situation
 

4426

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
21
[No message]
 

Attachments

  • photo309717.jpg
    photo309717.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 10
  • photo309718.jpg
    photo309718.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 10
  • photo309719.jpg
    photo309719.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 10
  • photo309720.jpg
    photo309720.jpg
    879.8 KB · Views: 10

4426

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
21
Closer to 12-18” of space but still would like an alternative idea
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
The reason the SW is cracked up is very common on these boats, it's because the boat was being used with a transom that is or was compromised by rot which will flex and transfer more stress to the SW that it can't take.

Many threads here as well with guys resizing the SW opening too, to make it more like the V5 OB models.
 

4426

Cadet
Joined
May 9, 2014
Messages
21
Alright I’m done with the idea of getting rid of it completely, but does anyone see it feasible to use a 4-6” manual jack plate or setback plate to save myself a little space?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Having the set back is not a bad idea, I have a 6" set back on my 140 Merc with a CMC trim, the motor can be mounted a bit higher and use less SW when tilted out. Also the motor runs in cleaner water in the pillow.

y4m08aGNDYhtWwHYWU7yiv7th8Ua8LLouWVLsNoQZob9FPZsRfaesW8Ow08QmbgSFlQJYwXbQHfBaUNUEuPjJ_6s_U8xlF77-z5flRtYfOHL1naR2HxkeTVBtM02b3yGInrcPUKzEzZabUCTrXuOeMiPk1YFnf36atKt6hOWVBBC10-pPiLMdI3NtXbf-_7tY_B1qLDZQXQWVWNistzIWLVIg
 
Top