PlayDoh’s 16 SS resto underway

PlayD0h

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
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326
Here’s my plate temporarily in place. I ripped off the plastic after I put the bolts in, in case anyone’s wondering what the black and white crap is, lol.

Im pretty happy, it’s nearly flush with only a few 2-4 mm thick gaps. Yet the perimeter is flush 95% around.
I’m thinking the G Flex kit is what I’ll use, although I’m not sure if some cloth would be a good addition. And if using some JB or Marine Tex to raise the hull the small bit to get it fitting near perfect. Yet I’m doubtful I’ll go to that trouble.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I would use 5200 to seal/secure the plate to the hull. I know for sure it will not ever leak with 5200 but the epoxy stuff I can't make that statement.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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I plan on using 5200 on all the hardware, so my consideration for the epoxy is only for bonding strength. I emailed West Systems to see if they think it’s practical for this purpose.

I put a second coat coat of primer on today and tomorrow I’m shooting paint. This is just on the bottom but it’ll be awesome to be done it and get to put her right side up.
 

Watermann

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3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding. It cures to form a firm, rubbery, waterproof seal on joints and boat hardware, above and below the waterline. This product has been trusted throughout the marine industry for over 50 years.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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So I painted the second coat today, which should be enough. I left my heaters on for a couple hours and got it up to around 65 F or 18°C. I put one space heater under the turtled hull to get the aluminum warmer, yet I didn’t check what temp it got to. Felt decent though.

I used your (WOG) mixing ratios and sprayed the second coat with the hardener. It just flew out compared to the 15% xylene thinning I used on the first coat. I got a second gun, that had issues, so I had to switch, which wasted a bit of paint, but I used a LOT.

I used the whole quart on the one wet coat of the hull bottom. I used 3/4 a quart on the first coat, and figured I’d use less on the second. It looks great, and there are zero runs or sags. My only experience shooting paint was at a place I used to work, painting heavy duty equipment. So my idea of a coat is obviously not what most consider a coat.

So, I don’t think I need another coat, yet if I didn’t have this site or others as reference I would have just though my coats were normal. In fact if I can’t see how it would have looked as good if I didn’t put as wet a coat. Maybe with multiple thin coats it doesn’t look smooth until the last coat?

anyways I’ll try the thin coat method on the hull sides when I get there. Yet I wonder if there’s any difference considering there’s no runs or sags? I wish I had a paint thickness meter. I’ll see if a body shop will check it for me in the spring.

ill put some pics up tomorrow.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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Correct. I noticed when I refabbed the brace that it didn't line up perfectly to the existing hull holes. Reaming them up to 1/4" from 3/16" did resolve that. I DID cut the tabs off as it served no structural purpose in leaving them. Seeing how I was bolting it to the hull and transom instead of riveting, I made sure that I could get a socket to fit between the wall of the brace and nut before reaming the holes. I welded the 2 stress cracks at the flex point of the brace before adding the angles and center support. Bolting and riveting them gave the angles much more structural integrity than an outer weld would. I also added a 10"x12"x3/16" AL plate on the outer hull at the bottom for re-enforcement before securing the brace. I buttered it, the hull and holes with 5200 liberally as you can see in pic 1. I tapered the leading edge of said piece for a smoother transition. One thing I wished I had done beforehand was to move the drain hole to the center of the keel before installing the brace. And I would have replaced it with a brass threaded type. Just my 2 cents.

I’ve been thinking about moving my drain, and either way I need a replacement. By a Brass threaded plug do you mean one like this?
 

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PlayD0h

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Ok, I went and took a peek and some pics.
 

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PlayD0h

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[No message]
 

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BigNuge

Seaman
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Wow, that looks great! What did you use to paint it (gun/spray bomb)?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I'd shy away from using brass on your tin boat, garboard plugs are a pita too imo.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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So I flipped her over and stripped the gunwales and bow cap. Anyone know the trick to get the bow ‘bumper’ off? I got it off but I had to pry and tap it off and there’s likely a better way. Mainly concerned with putting it back on.
I took some hammers and dolies to my dent/crease and I got it pretty close to flush, but In hindsight I should have tried using some poly and rubber mallets. Not like it would have popped out perfect, so it needs filler either way. Just looks bad with the hammer marks.
I have a dent that was close to this one that was fairly deep. I have it banged out, but now it will buckle, so I have to fix that.
I got some fiberglass resin filler from a body shop supplier, so now I have Marine Tex, Gflex and now this stuff and trying to decide which is best for the dent. I’m leaning to Marine Tex. In part because it was three times more expensive than either other one.

I have 4 1/4” holes from a kicker mount, and like 4-5 transducer holes I need to patch. I came across the Aluminum low heat braise / solder / welding rods. It’s certainly impressive and I’m going to grab some and test them. If they work, I plan on filling the hole and also using some AL flashing with 5200 on the inside. I’m going to check if I can get a sheet large enough to cover the wood completely. Since I’m imagining the flashing patch could / would wear itself into the wood, ruining the epoxy sealer I have on it.

Next Im going to paint after I fill the 2 dents, and gluvit the hull. Then I’ll start the deck sealing and shaping. I’m going to add some AL bracing to the stringers.

Ive been ice fishing a lot but I know in March I’ll have all the time I need to go hard. And I can plug away till then.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Lots of work to get done, the clean up and hull repairs seem to take the most time.

I've had good luck using MT for dent filler, just sand it right after it cures, waiting too long it starts to sand like iron rather than wood. :lol:
 

PlayD0h

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 23, 2009
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326
Any advice for how to paint 2 colors? Maybe it’s just as simple as masking a line but I have concerns about a gap. I’m thinking of sanding down a half inch of the black, past the line, so I’m not on 100% bare metal.
 

Candutch

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May 8, 2015
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637
For painting 2 colors I laid down the black first over the whole area. Then before it cured I taped down a line with low tack painters tape, then paper over the parts I didn't want to paint, light scuff on the black that I was painting, wipe down with tack cloth and shot the grey.
It has held up great and there were no issues with the tape lifting the paint. I also pulled the tape right after I shot for a nice clean line.
 

PlayD0h

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Apr 23, 2009
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326
So the ‘buckle’ term I used is better known as ‘Oil-canning’. I have 3 spots that do it. I might see if I can find an auto body guy to fix it. I’m scared of annealing the AL or just making things worse.
Im not sure if using heat to shrink it will work, but if I even try it Im going to make sure it doesn’t get too hot or attempt things Im not very confident in.
Theres a tool called a ‘slapper’ that is like a file, and it puts zig zag wrinkles in the metal in order to reduce its surface area.
This is going to change my plans on painting, yet that’s not too bad. There’s plenty else I can get done.
 

PlayD0h

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 23, 2009
Messages
326
So after 5 hours of hearing and tapping I’ve managed to flatten the dents out quite a bit, but it still oil cans and it’s so depressing. I can’t imagine taking it to anyone is going to be something I can even afford.
 

PlayD0h

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 23, 2009
Messages
326
So back at it today, and I’m hoping once I have everything as flat as possible, it either won’t oil can, or won’t be able to once the side-shelves are riveted in.
At worse, I’ll have to add a bracing piece of sheet aluminum, to the inside. That will be a half dozen extra rivets, so not the end of the world.
On the plus side, I’ve gotten fairly decent at bumping and straightening Aluminum. The trick is using a wood dolly, off-dolly hits, and only using heavy taps, after being heated. I’m using a small handheld torch, and I have an infrared thermometers. Leaving the torch in one spot forever essentially only gets the hull to 500°F, so it’s foolproof, although I do check it often. I usually get a spot to 350-400 at hottest, then bump it till it’s cool enough not to burn my hand.
I don’t think I have to skillset to shrink, and reluctant to heat it up to 550° or more. I don’t want to anneal the metal. what stings is that I’m going to have to spend a few hours just undoing the ‘damage’ I did by smashing and bashing like it was steel.
If I get it really flat and it still oil cans, I’ll look at what a auto body tech will have to say. At that point it will only need shrinking and some final touches.
 
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