My first attempt at a restoration

macsmith777

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Sep 14, 2017
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Copy on the UV protection! These will be under either paint or carpet (open to suggestions on that front) I am going to do the benches as well as the platform/storage box without carpet or whatever, so they will get a coat or two of spar (same for transom) so again, favorite brands/types?

I got a bunch done this weekend as pics will show. Last remnants of old hardware, pulleys etc. removed, three coats of epoxy on the floorboards with a 4th on the edges and rough areas. And, I got it down to my welder guy's shop so he can finish of old screw/drill holes. I just spent a small fortune at iboats.com on electrical etc.

When I get her home in a few days, we are on to final sand and full on TSP bath/scrub down. I have about 6 folks coming over to turtle her without rolling, and ready to paint the exterior.

Thanks for looking everyone! I will try to be better about pics, I totally get how they make a thread more fun to follow..

Mac
 

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mudchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Most definitely Mudchuck. The local hardware store has 1" and 2" 4x8 sheets of polystyrene. I will fit all I can under there. I am set to epoxy the floor panels tomorrow, as well as do some other odds and ends. I want to practice my epoxy-ing on the floor as it will be covered. If I don't like the look, I will get some of the clear hardener (West Systems 207) for the transom and storage box/seating platform. Perhaps by next weekend I have it turtled for exterior paint..

That's good, you'l need to be creative in how to cut the poly foamboards.
Take a look at my refurbishment project. I suggest taking the single heavy gauge aluminum stringer out and installing two instead, it helps with stabilizing the decking among other things, and improved the water flow to the drain plug port.
 

mudchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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That's good, you'l need to be creative in how to cut the poly foamboards.
Take a look at my refurbishment project. I suggest taking the single heavy gauge aluminum stringer out and installing two instead, it helps with stabilizing the decking among other things, and improved the water flow to the drain plug port.

BTW, it looks like your boat & mine are virtually identical.
I did 3 coats of spar varnish to the underside of my deck boards and used a 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of anti-skid deck paint on the exposed side. The paint holds up really well and I'm satisfied with the results. I did use that flexi-crap on the joints and not thrilled with how the manufacturer says the stuff is paintable after cure, as it certainly isn't.
I will strip that stuff out and prime again then repaint the deck board joints with the anti-skid paint after I rebuild the transom board this winter.
 

macsmith777

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Sep 14, 2017
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Interesting you say that... When I put down the Gluvit, it ran downhill, and now many of the little gaps under the ribs along centerline are plugged, meaning water has to go over the top. Suggestions on this subject would be appreciated. I figured I would just fill very thoroughly with foam between the ribs so that water is force over the top anyway.

Also, I hear you about replacing one stringer with two. Any suggestions on how to do so? I don't have a break, and the pieces would be about 14 feet long!

Mac
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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My V5 SS doesn't have limber holes under the ribs and they tend to get plugged up anyway so I wouldn't worry about it.

My favorite spar is the Helmsman clear gloss.
 

mudchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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Interesting you say that... When I put down the Gluvit, it ran downhill, and now many of the little gaps under the ribs along centerline are plugged, meaning water has to go over the top. Suggestions on this subject would be appreciated. I figured I would just fill very thoroughly with foam between the ribs so that water is force over the top anyway.

Also, I hear you about replacing one stringer with two. Any suggestions on how to do so? I don't have a break, and the pieces would be about 14 feet long!

Mac

Well I work for a HVAC contractor and the full sheet of aluminum cost about $100 and I was able to get 2 full stringers cut/bent with little effort. Still have 2/3 of a sheet left over for odds & ends, like the trim cap piece on the transom board I'm about to redo.
That said, you could find a local sheet metal shop to order you a sheet of aluminum and the labor to cut/bend the stringers is only a couple hours at best, so you won't incur much cost on this.
As for the little gaps, I pressure washed them clean beforehand, so doing the foamboard/stringers/decking I was certain to have water flow. I also made a water channel between the 2 stringers with a gap of about an inch below the foam by making small alum u-shaped pieces I riveted between the stringers so I could get water to flow regardless of the little gaps getting plugged up later on.
I also took the very unusual approach of not using Coat It on the inside of the hull, but rather stripped to primer/bare metal and coated the outside, as I was concerned about the epoxy plugging things up so no water would flow to the stern.
Then I scuffed the epoxy just enough to have the paint adhere...it looks a little rough, but it is watertight, no leaks and no fouling at all this entire fishing season on the lake thus far.
I wasn't too concerned about looks as I'm wanting watertight integrity and something reliable to fish with...

Since my boat is a 14' I had 2 stringers made the full 10' I could get out of the sheet, then had 2 smaller stringers made and offset them up in the bow area were things taper to the point, this way the decking section in that part of the boat has several places to attach.
I used aluminum pop rivets, felt very sturdy during the refurb, since the gauge of the alum. metal is equivalent to 14ga galv, Once we laid the 3/4" plywood deck board on I used SS self tap screws to attach the deck boards to the stringers, the floor is solid and weathered some heavy seas this summer with no shifting or shearing of the screws.
 

mudchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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link to my refurb project. check out pics of dual stringers for reference to what we discuss here.
 

macsmith777

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Sep 14, 2017
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Well, I gave her a quick scrub inside and out, so as to not have to do that in the shop. Thanks to some very kind friends, I had a crew of 7 together and we managed to turtle her without even touching the ground. On to final prep work and paint! There are a couple of crease/dents on the hull, so I may take the extra day or two and fill them as I know as soon as I put fresh paint on, they will stick out like a sore thumb. I did a lot of drywall work back in the day and am pretty good with mud. Any experience out there with the 3M filler in the green and white can?
 

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macsmith777

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Happy Turkey Day everyone. Got her primed about an hour ago. If there are no unforeseen delays, I will have paint on boat this weekend. Then I have to get the trailer dealt with while we're turtled on the sawhorses.. I am happy that things are moving along, and am now having fun getting equipment/electronics etc..

More pics to come.

Mac
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Nice, looks like rusto SE from here. I like your hangar, lots of room for painting and piling up boat stuff.
 

macsmith777

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Sep 14, 2017
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Yep, you got the brand right. I gave it 1 good coat. I was going to lightly sand, but it goes to bare metal just about immediately, so I wiped down with a damp t-shirt rag, and will just paint. Rustoleum topside paint is the order of the day given the price. I have recruited the Admiral to help..

I love the hangar. When I am done with this project, I am building a rolling workbench and organizing things a bit better for the next project. If she is still available, I am thinking this.
 

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macsmith777

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First coat! I am pleased thus far, though I clearly have practice to do on the tipping thing. I think I will thin the next coat a little more. Just a little. I am doing the bow and stern in oyster. Will look a bit like a wing tip shoe
 

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macsmith777

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2nd coat is on. I have a few holidays that I will address, but overall it looks good. Lets hope it sticks! I will give it a few days to really dry well, and then tape the bow and stern in reverse and apply the oyster paint. In the meantime, I have a pretty fugly trailer that needs to be wheeled, painted, and have new bunks put on. That should take the rest of the week if I move along..
 

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macsmith777

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The paint came out ok. I can see brush marks in areas, but it is pretty faint for the most part. I am not sure if was my technique or the cheap paint, prolly a bit of both. Don't get me wrong, for never having done a thing like this before, I am pretty please. That said, it looks nothing like some of the roll/tip videos I have seen out there. I followed the manufacturer recommendation for ratio of mineral spirits at 5%, but upon reflection, I would have probably close to doubled it. I think that keeping an eye on craigslist for a deal on a sprayer would be warranted for my next project!
 
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